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Cheap Chinese Laser Cutter

experiences with a Chinese laser cutter

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chris larkins17/10/2019 20:50:54
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207 forum posts
144 photos
Posted by ROBERT BURLACE on 30/09/2019 08:25:42:
Posted by chris larkins on 30/09/2019 00:10:04:

I just ordered one of these, 50x65 engraving area and with a 3000mw laser, worked out at £117.28 inc postage and insurance.

LINK

Good stuff Chris,

by the looks of it, this should be expandable should you wish to make it larger in the future.

Ask away if we can be of assistance in setting it up or using it.

Rob

Thank you, I have sent you a PM

Geoff Gardiner20/10/2019 21:27:15
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410 forum posts
709 photos

Hi chaps.

I have just added a 5W laser (diode) to my homemade CNC cutter. It uses G-Code and I can set the power of the laser, speed of movement and number of passes.

I have had a quick play but haven't really found a good combination of the settings yet. Full power tends to set fire to the balsa, lowering the power and adjusting the speed increases the number of passes required a lot .

It would be really useful for me (and others new to laser cutting) If people could share their laser settings

for cutting various types of balsa/ply thickness and what type (power) of laser they have.

Thanks in advance.

Geoff...

Martyn K20/10/2019 22:02:37
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4980 forum posts
3624 photos

Mine arrived a couple of days ago. Looking forward to getting is assembled and having a play..

Martyn

Martyn K20/10/2019 23:08:33
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4980 forum posts
3624 photos

Trying to download the build instructions and I am getting the error "Not a Valid Archive"

http://myosuploads3.banggood.com/products/20190326/201903260314326550.zip

Anyone else managed to download them OK?

 

Martyn

Edited By Martyn K on 20/10/2019 23:09:42

Itisme21/10/2019 08:54:15
38 forum posts
23 photos

Took the plunge and got an elekslaser a3 pro with 2.5w laser, after a little playing around i think i have some good settings in lighburn. 5mm balsa cut fairly clean. 3 passes per mmLaser settingsEdge

Edited By Itisme on 21/10/2019 09:19:55

Andy Meade21/10/2019 08:59:34
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2645 forum posts
679 photos

Martyn - I've got the same problem with the file, there are some good videos on youtube to help out though

Edited By Andy Meade on 21/10/2019 09:01:27

Martyn K21/10/2019 09:50:46
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4980 forum posts
3624 photos

I have managed to download and extract OK using 7Zip.

If anyone want the set, I'll rezip using WinZip and upload somewhere safe so you can download.

Have to admit, I am not massively impressed withe assembly manual..

Martyn

Martyn K21/10/2019 09:57:30
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4980 forum posts
3624 photos

Uploaded to ftp://ftp.czd.org.uk

Login as anonymous with no password

File name is Banggood_Laser_engraver.zip

Martyn

Martyn K21/10/2019 09:59:24
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4980 forum posts
3624 photos
Posted by Andy Meade on 21/10/2019 08:59:34:

Martyn - I've got the same problem with the file, there are some good videos on youtube to help out though

Edited By Andy Meade on 21/10/2019 09:01:27

Thanks Andy

I'll take a look

Martyn

chris larkins21/10/2019 10:21:44
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207 forum posts
144 photos

I assembled mine a few days ago, if you have any questions or want a picture of any specific part let me know.

I have done a few test cuts using the benbox software but I have now downloaded Lightburn for the free 30 day period, it has taken me a while to get it set up on lightburn as you have to flash the firmware on the card, simple enough once I figured out how.

If you have any issues connecting it up on Benbox let me know, it took me several frustrating hours to figure it out

ROBERT BURLACE21/10/2019 20:51:28
37 forum posts
14 photos

Hi everyone,

Sorry for my inactivity for a couple of weeks, the rugby has meant I haven't done much. How are those of you who are trying it out getting on? Setup instructions are a little vague but I found youtube to be my friend. I think we're all pretty technically minded so you won't struggle with it. Take care not to crack any of the acrylic. Belt tensioning with the stock parts isn't very good....there are alternatives available for anyone with 3d printers, or ooznest.co.uk are pretty good.

A bit of an update on my spitfire...

image0.jpeg

I tried several ways to build the wing centre section and finally settled on this. The ribs on the plan are weak at exactly the point the undercarriage mounts. With some dense XPS and laser cut ribs I hot wire cut the centre section, which will have spars and a 2mm balsa skin. Planning to router away and install the U/C mount in the next day or so.

This opens a new problem to solve around wing joining. I think I will fix the centre section in place permanently, making the work around the fairings easier. I am thinking that I will use a tube through the middle to join the outer sections - any suggestions on getting the dihedral right with this method? Bending the tube (only possible with aluminium?) or displacing the joiner holes on the ribs?

Allan Bennett21/10/2019 21:31:12
1555 forum posts
39 photos

Displacing the joiner holes in the ribs is the only sensible way that I know.

ROBERT BURLACE21/10/2019 21:38:47
37 forum posts
14 photos

Thanks Allan,

that’s what I thought- just nice to have confirmation. It’s easily done with the laser cutter.

Rob

chris larkins24/10/2019 12:55:12
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207 forum posts
144 photos

Just done my first cut in anger, 3mm balsa, 100% power, 3600 mm/min.

The cut got about 95% through in one pass so next time I might try reducing the power a bit but with 2 passes.

VIDEO LINK

chris larkins24/10/2019 12:56:32
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207 forum posts
144 photos

dsc_1371.jpg

img-20191024-wa0001.jpeg

Andy Meade24/10/2019 13:10:07
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2645 forum posts
679 photos

Looks like you're getting a lot of reflection - have you got a blower fan installed to clear the debris?

ROBERT BURLACE24/10/2019 13:17:48
37 forum posts
14 photos

A small blower will definitely help I use a pond air pump and machine lubricant hose - the fan behind probably isn't directional enough to clear debris from the cut path. In addition, try raising your material off the cutting bed. I use 10cm long pieces of aluminium angle. Air is a better insulator than wood, so will stop some of the energy being conducted out of your cut piece. In addition it will reduce the distance from the laser to the piece, increasing the intensity of the beam (assuming you can focus it at that distance).

Martyn K24/10/2019 15:49:10
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4980 forum posts
3624 photos

These things are meant to be engravers. I gave just finished assembling mine. If you are cutting, what do you use as a baseboard?

Martyn

Geoff Gardiner24/10/2019 20:00:31
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410 forum posts
709 photos

Chris, I have just been setting up my homemade CNC/Laser cutter. I am using Inkscape with a laser extension installed. This creates G-Code to send to the cutter (M03 to turn on and M05 to turn off). My first cuts were also burning at the corners - where the laser speed slows to change direction. I have found that if I use M04 to turn on the laser instead of the M03 command, then the laser power reduces when it slows and you don't get the burnt corners.

This may be of help to you.

Geoff...

chris larkins25/10/2019 10:52:54
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207 forum posts
144 photos

I have a small fan placed about 6 inches away as that's all I have for now, I have ordered a pond pump which I will run through some thin tube so that it's close to the wood. I am using 9mm MDF for the baseboard which is working well so far although I've only done a few cuts.

I was using the thin plastic pieces to raise the wood up, but they are only about 1.5mm thick so perhaps I'll try something thicker, it would be nice for the cut pieces to drop down so that I know I'm all the way through.

On the pictures below I was cutting an F1 former for a Peter Miller 'The Ohmen', it took 13 passes to get all the way through, I am hoping that when the pump arrives it will be a cleaner cut.

Thanks Geoff, I'll try playing with the G-code. I am also using Inkscape and I did download an extension to generate the G-code, however I am not using this and instead I am using Lightburn to control the laser.

VIDEO LINK

f1 final resized.jpg

f1 cut resized.jpg

f1 sheet resized.jpg

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