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Glen's Models 35% Extra 330 electrification

Going where few have gone before!

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Adrian Smith 120/10/2019 09:52:15
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

A quick job on the main wings was to fit the PowerBox MicroMatch leads. p1060028.jpg

On to the tail wheel assembly to fit the springs.

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All fitted, but I found it a bit fiddly and drew blood trying to bend the ends! face 11

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In fact I am thinking I should use some other similar springs I have in stock that that have a ring at each end to hook through and over the arms and look more secure than the feeble effort I made to bend the wire round the arms. Back to the drawing board I think on that one.

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 20/10/2019 09:53:23

Rich too20/10/2019 13:41:34
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3052 forum posts
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Presumably, the power box leads remain in place?

Gary Manuel20/10/2019 13:49:07
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1514 photos
Posted by Rich too on 20/10/2019 13:41:34:

Presumably, the power box leads remain in place?

They do, which means that there's only one servo lead per wing to connect at the field yes

Rich too20/10/2019 15:25:03
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3052 forum posts
1070 photos

Cheers Gary, that’s a bonus.

Adrian Smith 122/10/2019 16:50:45
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

Now to the wheel axles and bits. I had to buy the axles which are Dubro 2" long x 3/16" diameter. I use blue thread locker for the nuts.

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Nearly forgot to put the cuffs on! used some rubber trim and cyano to tidy them up.

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Taped in place for the moment.

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Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 22/10/2019 16:51:15

Adrian Smith 122/10/2019 16:54:46
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

On the the wheels and spats. The wheel hubs needed drilling out slightly with a 4.5 drill bit before sliding on to the axle. I filed some flats for the collet screw. The axles are plenty long enough which is just as well as the inner collets had to be position a good 2 cms outboard of the leg to aid lining up of the spats.

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Adrian Smith 122/10/2019 16:58:34
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

On to the spats themselves. I provided the M3 bolts and claw nuts as none provided.

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I positioned the spat on the leg and drew a line as to where the angle of the spat should be so that the rear of the spat doesn't scrape on the ground.

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Claw nuts installed.

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All screwd in and angle right.

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Now for both set to be lined up.

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john stones 122/10/2019 17:03:36
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10699 forum posts
1480 photos

Used those Dubro axles myself Adrian, they look the dogs doodahs, however I've had them fail, as have others I fly with, sheared on the nut side. You may have a different experience though ?

Adrian Smith 122/10/2019 17:30:30
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

Not had one go on me yet, John. Even some of the cheaper versions on ARTFs I have had have been fine. Always a first time though. Not sure of anything else to try. Many moons ago I used long bolts and a couple of nuts. Now they did shear as I recall. Anyway we will see. I will be drilling out the prop this week and my drill guide just so happens to have the right pattern. I am leaving the canopy fitting as the last job, as I want to get the CoG right and I might have to adapt the "office" space.

I have bought some waxed casement window rope to hang the beast from the ceiling when i do that job. That will be interesting. disgust

john stones 122/10/2019 17:31:57
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10699 forum posts
1480 photos
Posted by Adrian Smith 1 on 22/10/2019 17:30:30:

Not had one go on me yet, John. Even some of the cheaper versions on ARTFs I have had have been fine. Always a first time though. Not sure of anything else to try. Many moons ago I used long bolts and a couple of nuts. Now they did shear as I recall. Anyway we will see. I will be drilling out the prop this week and my drill guide just so happens to have the right pattern. I am leaving the canopy fitting as the last job, as I want to get the CoG right and I might have to adapt the "office" space.

I have bought some waxed casement window rope to hang the beast from the ceiling when i do that job. That will be interesting. disgust

yes

Adrian Smith 123/10/2019 20:25:49
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

Time to drill the prop. Used my prop jig.

p1060043.jpg

Loose fitted the bolts to the front plate.

p1060044.jpg

On to the motor.

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One thing I am going to do is replace the 45mm M4 bolts with slightly longer ones as the prop driver holes will take another 5mm in length or so. I am going to order some 50 mm and 55 mm M4 bolts from ModelFixings which will do the job. However, I have a couple of extra problems. The prop shaft doesn't have a threaded hole to allow a spinner to be fitted, or at least there is a shadow under the metal surface at the tip which suggests there might be one underneath. Not sure whether just to do without as I can't find any adaptor to modify it with. The shaft is 10mm in diameter.

Adrian Smith 123/10/2019 20:30:44
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

In the meantime I decided to do a modification to the hatch. The bolt hole is some distance below the outer skin of the hatch which means when trying to put the bolt in I have a habit of dropping it through!

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Therefore I decided to make a guide tube to drop the bolt through.

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Hatch attached nicely without fuss!

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Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 23/10/2019 20:31:20

Rich too23/10/2019 20:34:33
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3052 forum posts
1070 photos

Good idea Adrian 👍 one advantage of electric motors, you don’t have to worry about prop orientation!

Adrian Smith 124/10/2019 16:18:26
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

Yes, Rich this is true along with a few other advantages. wink

I had a constructive afternoon which was prompted by reaching a point where I needed to fit out the internal position of lipos etc. Therefore nothing for it but to do the CoG exercise with the airframe, motor, servos and prop all in situ. I left he canopy off for this exercise as it very light to the extent of being a bit flimsy.

p1060051.jpg

Looks like an internal gibbet to start with. I tied the waxed sash cord in place and put Vaseline on the wing spar where the cord will be sitting.

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Started with the bench below the aircraft to make things easier.

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Took the bench away to provide support for the tail with a polystyrene box in case of tail heaviness.

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The basic position seems to indicate the aircraft balancing on the spar. So far so good. As an experiment I put the power packs along the spar.

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As I would expect no change in orientation. Next I put the RX pack at the far end of the "Office".

p1060056.jpg This tilted the plane towards the tail which confirmed I wasn't kidding myself where she balances. Now I can get on to the serious business of fitting out. My first thought would be to try and fit the two 10000 mAh power packs across the fuselage one either side of the spar. May be easier said than done though!

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 24/10/2019 16:18:42

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 24/10/2019 16:19:30

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 24/10/2019 16:20:35

Rich too25/10/2019 05:25:29
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3052 forum posts
1070 photos

Looking good, can you attach them to the spar?

cymaz25/10/2019 05:38:57
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8735 forum posts
1186 photos

Try a Vanessa rig. This will indicate the CG. Then you can place the batteries on the airframe, readjust and see how much the CG point has moved

Adrian Smith 125/10/2019 08:44:49
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

I think I will have to build a small platform over the spar to put the batteries on, but I will have look today to see if the logistics/alternatives are possible, Rich. One thing I don't want to add is unnecessary weight, but space is tight surprisingly.

I have got the Vanessa Rig design on paper in the workshop Cymaz, but I felt it might take me as long to build it as the plane!wink. The above method whilst not the most accurate has served me well and I haven't maidened an uncontrollable plane ...... yet.

Adrian Smith 125/10/2019 16:31:41
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

The new, longer M4 bolts for the prop turned up today and now I have some space to fit a sprung washer to each one.

p1060057.jpg

Adrian Smith 125/10/2019 16:37:31
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2302 forum posts
1067 photos

Next job to sort out the battery positions. The power packs will be able to sit under the wing spar, but I am going to have to put in a false floor for two reasons.

p1060060.jpg

Firstly, there is wooden pillar in the middle of the original floor which is intended to separate twin canisters on gasser applications. I used my Dremel to remove as much as possible although there is bit left. The second reason I needed to get under the false floor to thread the Velcro through in the appropriate position.

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Finally, glued in position with 5 minute Epoxy.

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Next a bit of thought as to where to put the RX pack, RX and switch. I think I am going to have to extend the cables from the ESC to make everything fit.

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 25/10/2019 16:39:26

Edited By Adrian Smith 1 on 25/10/2019 16:39:55

cymaz25/10/2019 17:11:51
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8735 forum posts
1186 photos
Posted by Adrian Smith 1 on 25/10/2019 08:44:49:

I think I will have to build a small platform over the spar to put the batteries on, but I will have look today to see if the logistics/alternatives are possible, Rich. One thing I don't want to add is unnecessary weight, but space is tight surprisingly.

I have got the Vanessa Rig design on paper in the workshop Cymaz, but I felt it might take me as long to build it as the plane!wink. The above method whilst not the most accurate has served me well and I haven't maidened an uncontrollable plane ...... yet.

I copied mine off the inter web. The longest job was waiting at the till at Trago Mills paying for the cord!

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