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TN Concorde

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Alan Jarvis09/10/2019 13:28:58
168 forum posts
28 photos

wing tabs.jpgFirst wing glued up.

Photo showing the Wing Jig Tabs a very clever idea by TN. It makes it so easy to get the correct wing shape. These are later cut off.wing.jpg

Piers Bowlan09/10/2019 14:20:34
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1904 forum posts
50 photos

Want one already love !

Martin McIntosh01/11/2019 09:53:55
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

Making a start on mine. I have a few of the retracts shown in the picture above and had already decided to use them. I like the novel nose wheel steering, and would appreciate a pic. of the other side of that main wheel since I shall also be making mine that way.

Progress is a bit slow producing my own kit of parts but all of the ply has been cut. I ran into a slight problem straight away in that in order to fit the Power Fun units the EN holes need to be cut over size meaning that they are now sloppy in the mounts, overcome by wrapping a strip of 1/64th" ply between the stiffening rings, the rear one of which is slightly fatter than the front. I have plenty of 250 micron acetate so will try this for the tubes, meaning an even larger hole in EN4.

Martin McIntosh06/11/2019 15:45:43
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

A quick question please if anyone can help before I make a mistake. As shown on the plan, are the jig tabs on R2 and R6 way too long or should the front packing piece be 12mm, not 9?

aerts michel15/11/2019 12:01:27
77 forum posts
41 photos

Hi all, glad to hear I am not the only one to build Tony's Concorde.

Here is a picture of my actual stage of building.

img_6145.jpg

aerts michel15/11/2019 12:02:48
77 forum posts
41 photos

I am using the retracts set sold by Tony.

Martin McIntosh15/11/2019 20:12:02
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

Hi, I am not at your stage yet but have the elevon servo mounts installed including the inner ones. The nose leg is being done but i found the opening to be too narrow so have modified it a bit. The steering is being done with fishing line and some piano wire to centre it I hope. Pics. to follow when I get the servo installed. Fingers crossed that it will work.

Martin McIntosh16/11/2019 15:32:22
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

Here is my effort at the nose leg which seems to work quite well. When the wheels eventually arrive I shall probably make it a twin and can get on with the mains.

concorde 001.jpg

concorde 002.jpg

Alan Jarvis16/11/2019 15:53:02
168 forum posts
28 photos

Sorry Martin for the delay but here is a photo of the other side of the leg.

leg.jpg

aerts michel16/11/2019 19:25:53
77 forum posts
41 photos

Here is a view on my setup wich can help you. I ended with 9 mm wood parts instead of 10 mm because opening was too narrow.

img_6153.jpg

aerts michel16/11/2019 19:26:11
77 forum posts
41 photos

img_6152.jpg

Martin McIntosh16/11/2019 21:52:19
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

Thanks Alan, but it was the other side of the mains I was interested in. I think I now know how I shall make mine.

I avoided those MCR series units because the latest ones I bought would not work with certain Rx`s which only output a 3V pulse instead of the required 5V; older ones are fine. Also, I have found that because the geometry is hopelessly wrong, the nose legs twist on retraction causing them to foul.

Alan Jarvis18/11/2019 12:37:58
168 forum posts
28 photos

Decals. Anybody any thoughts on making or someone who may supply them?

Chris Walby18/11/2019 12:50:42
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1024 forum posts
237 photos

Try Callie Graphics **LINK**

Helpful, fast, does bespoke graphics (Gruffalo for me) and local.

Okay well not local as they are in Magdalena, USA, but don't let that put you off, 7 to 10 day postage normally!

Highly recommended...by me

Martin McIntosh23/11/2019 17:24:31
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

Just sheeting the wing underside, but on the build pics there seems to be a larger than required cut out around F11, surrounded by what appears to be balsa strip. Any ideas as to why?

Yesterday I made up the wiring looms using 10awg from the battery then splitting it four ways with 14awg to the esc`s. I then programmed the YEP esc`s and checked the fans, the last of which out of the packaging turned out to be 64mm, not 50. Great. I may just keep it and do an enlarged Gnat rather than send it back.

aerts michel24/11/2019 18:58:31
77 forum posts
41 photos

Hi Martin, I don't remember something special about F11. The thing is when you will glue the formers against the 2 wing parts it is better to use white glue than cyano. I made the mistake to first glue all the formers against one wing side with cyano, and when I tried to join with the second wing some of the formers where not well aligned and I had to remove the glue on these formers (I broke some parts in the operation). So if you use white glue it will allow you to take your time to aligne everything well because the glue will dry slowly.

 

Bad news for your fan 64mm.. I have bought from bangood 4 fms fans (the ones used on Tony's Concorde).

Edited By aerts michel on 24/11/2019 18:59:25

Edited By aerts michel on 24/11/2019 18:59:55

Martin McIntosh24/11/2019 20:50:39
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

Thanks, the photos are not always very clear. I somehow glued my sides to the wings at the same time with ca. Other than F9 which is not quite vertical - does not matter, it has gone together OK. I am unused to skinning a wing underside sheet by sheet but soon learned to use aliphatic and some tape over the joins. I am also adding small strips of balsa on the inside in an attempt to keep the sheets level, around the wiring exits as well.

I wish that TN had said not to add the bottom stringer before sheeting but some `Uncure` got mine off. Got nearly as far forward as the u/c so far.

Martin McIntosh01/12/2019 20:21:12
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

Now getting on quite well-ish. By performing a lot of butchery and reversing the wheel positions I have got the mains well and truly sunk in. The problem now is with the Power Fun fans which are proving to be real `fun` to install since the bell mouths must be a little larger than the FMS units and are requiring some material to be removed from the nacelles. I have been forced to remove them and will need to re fit once the fans are in position. Despite heating them, the 250 micron acetate thrust tubes are taking forever to glue together with RCM glue.

Regarding the fus., other than the nose I decided on 1/16th balsa sheeting instead of 3/32nd and glad that I did when it came to the tail cone.

Martin McIntosh03/12/2019 21:42:27
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

Here are my sunk in wheels as I shall probably fit them.

concorde 006.jpg

When I put in the ESC power wiring I included some draw strings for the ESC cables but being a complete twerp left some tape on holding them together and the only way to remove it was to cut a hole in the bottom of the fus!

concorde 005.jpg

In order to keep some wiring clutter out of the intake airflow I am reducing the length of the ESC to fans and the ESC to Rx cable connectors since these will not pull through the rib holes. This is the first one.

concorde 004.jpg

concorde 003.jpg

Martin McIntosh05/12/2019 17:56:46
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2970 forum posts
1090 photos

I have now cut down all of the ESC wiring and got it through to the battery/Rx hatch. Time to smoke test using a servo tester and a Watt meter. It all works but by Jove does everything get hot quickly. At full power the 4500 3s pack soon ran down quite a bit but on reducing power it picked up. Not a true in flight test but I wanted to know the limits of it. Lots of thrust it would appear. Before I publish my Watt meter findings has anyone else got to this stage yet and are you using 3 or 4s fans?

By cutting the red +ve wire to the multi connector on three of the ESC`s I am hoping that the one left will power the seven digital servos OK but if not I shall have to fit a UBEC.

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