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Junior 60 build advice

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Andy Goddard 231/10/2019 20:14:49
12 forum posts
1 photos


im a newbie to balsa building and in the final stages of my junior 60 build. Hoping for some advice for some of the final stages

1) the original plans have the tail wings being attached via bands and dowels but I see no benefit in being able to detach them. Is it normal practice to permantly attach the tail wings, rudder etc?

2) any advice on coverings to use. I remember using solar film years ago on a plane but I guess technology as moved on. Looking for Something relatively easy But a decent finish? Also is there anywhere which gives suggested designs for colour schemes and trims or does one just use imagination?

3) When buying the power train and equipment I bought 2 9g micro servos (with a pull of 1.9 kg). I assumed smaller is better and these would be sufficient. The original plans are for a larger servo. Of course I can easily adjust the build to accommodate the micro servos but now I’m worried these aren’t big enough? Any thoughts?

4) ive built a battery box so that the batteries can be removed from front rather than removing wings. There is a cowl hatch at top to access motor, esc etc. I’ve left the access open to the battery box below the cowl thinking this would be best for air flow etc but wonder whether I should build a hatch at the bottom to make it look a little neater? If this doesn’t make sense I can post a picture.

5) from a quick google I see it recommended that one uses number 64 elastic bands to attach the main wings. Is this correct. They don’t seem too substantial. I guess I would use a few?

all advice on these points appreciated ...


sticky fingers31/10/2019 21:46:59
118 forum posts
14 photos

hi Andy,

The original junior 60 had the tail assembly banded on to enable packing to be added to trim the aircraft in a stable glide, ,the only movable surface was a small rudder controlled by an escapement mechanism. my advice would be to do some mods and add an elevator. another good move would be to go to a club local to yourself and talk to an experienced modeller. What area do you live in ,I am in the North west

Andy Goddard 231/10/2019 22:58:48
12 forum posts
1 photos

Thanks sticky fingers,

the plans I’m working too have a rudder and elevator. I live in south (Gloucestershire) and intend to join the local club though wanted to get a little closer to having a completed model before I did so.

Would you advise fixing the tail assembly?


David Davis01/11/2019 05:48:51
3525 forum posts
635 photos

1. I've built threeof these and I've always glued the tail surfaces to the fuselage.

2. I've always covered mine in Solartex or nylon. These coverings are strong but heavy they are also the most popular covering for Junior 60s. Film is much lighter. Apparently film from Hobby King, known colloquially as "Chinafilm" or "Chinakote," is very good but I've never used it. Oracover, sold as Profilm in England, is also very good but more expensive than the Solarfilm with which you're familiar. Solarfilm isn't produced anymore but they are selling off old stock here; **LINK**

3. i have always used standard servos in my Junior 60s, Futaba 148s or Hitec 311s but smaller servos will probably be alright. Someone with greater knowledge of servo capabilities will probably come along to advise. Within reason weight is not an issue with Junior 60s.

4. You'll probably be alright with your battery box as it is. Picture of my electrified Junior 60 below as well as one of a Junior 60 I built powered by a Graupner motor and NiCads held by my much younger self!

5. As for elastic bands I believe the general rule is to use bands which are half with length of the chord when they're not under tension. The conventional wisdom is to use six bands, four diagonally and two inline.

Finally, you don't live far from Cocklebarrow Farm. SAM 35 hold rallies there three times a year. You might find the events interesting. **LINK**

junior 60 nose (1).jpg

junior 60 nose (2).jpg

junior 60 2.jpg

junior 60 in flight.jpg

cymaz01/11/2019 05:49:19
8907 forum posts
1179 photos

I epoxied mine and used cocktail sticks to use as dowels. If you can at this stage strengthen the dihedral brace on the wings.

I used longer wing band dowels, makes the job of putting them on easier. Also I used Slec wing bands, can’t recall what length, it was a few years back.

gangster01/11/2019 06:46:56
985 forum posts
17 photos

I have an electric Junior 60.

The tail is glued in place. I cannot remember the wing band size but am pretty sure they are 8 inch ice wide thick ones. The battery slides in from the front ie the battery box is built in under the motor and is open at the front . I use a strip of Velcro on the bottom of the battery box and separate the Velcro with. Strip of 1.5 mm ply. An electric prop does that job just as well. As for servos I have used ordinary Futaba 148 sized jobs there is nothing to be gained by saving the weight by going micro. Please don’t over power it it won’t go any faster but will make a lovely flyer into a pig. I cannot remember what power mine is but simply limited the throttle throw to 55%. AFTER calibrating the esc. You have chosen a lovely model to both build and fly. Enjoy

gangster01/11/2019 06:48:23
985 forum posts
17 photos

Duplicate removed. 

Edited By gangster on 01/11/2019 06:49:29

Peter Miller01/11/2019 08:57:25
10490 forum posts
1246 photos
10 articles

You can still buy Solarfilm from the company **LINK** But Hobbyking covering is very good.

Your servos should be fine. I use mini servos with a torque of about 2kg on aerobatic models without any problems. The junior 60 will not have anything like the loads as it float around very gently. My Super Scorpion uses them

Size 64 bands should be fine, again, they are not being stressed with wild aerobatics. I recently flew a vintage aerobatic sports model with 6 of them and the wing never moved.

By the way for all you vintage devotees. I have a Super Scorpion which needs longer wing bands. I bought a kilo of 200 X 10 mm black bands by Progrom for £13 from Amazon. Compare that with the price of about 6 bands in a packet.


On Colour schemes Go your own way but do have contrast and bright colours. White or light undersides can vanish into blue or hazy skies. On the other hand bright colours on top and the tail show up well if you land out in crops

Andy Goddard 201/11/2019 10:19:12
12 forum posts
1 photos

Thanks everybody for all the great advice. I’m enjoying this build although keen to finish before the conservatory gets too cold too build in!!

Mike Etheridge 101/11/2019 10:27:49
1536 forum posts
429 photos

As I have mentioned before I have a 57 year old Keil Kraft New Junior 60 that would free flight and had 27 mhz rudder only radio with a rubber powered escapement. Eventually I replaced the radio with 2 channel Sanwa proportional radio and added an RC throttle to the ED Racer diesel motor. The plane always flew well with rubber bands holding the wings and tail in place. Without an elevator it needed about 1/8 inch of balsa under the tailplane for trim so a permanently fixed tailplane would not have worked. recently I have refurbished the plane and added an elevator but to get the C/G right I have replaced the Racer with a heavier OS 20 and added more nose weight but to date the plane has not flown well so further weight is required in the nose.


Peter Miller01/11/2019 10:50:46
10490 forum posts
1246 photos
10 articles
Posted by Andy Goddard 2 on 01/11/2019 10:19:12:

Thanks everybody for all the great advice. I’m enjoying this build although keen to finish before the conservatory gets too cold too build in!!

Invest in a Calor gas heater. It will keep you toasty warm. Only downside, everyone else will want to be in there enjoying the warmth and any sunshine outsidesad

Piers Bowlan01/11/2019 12:52:31
1993 forum posts
53 photos

Calor gas heaters are most effective but can produce quite a bit of moisture. They can be expensive to run as well but worth it if they keep you warm. There was a thread on here regarding Chinese diesel heaters last winter, which are quite economical to run (run on red diesel) and produce loads of heat. Worth considering to keep you modelling through the winter Andy and frostbite free too!

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 01/11/2019 12:54:59

Stuart Z01/11/2019 13:46:02
389 forum posts
Posted by Peter Miller on 01/11/2019 10:50:46:
Posted by Andy Goddard 2 on 01/11/2019 10:19:12:

Thanks everybody for all the great advice. I’m enjoying this build although keen to finish before the conservatory gets too cold too build in!!

Invest in a Calor gas heater. It will keep you toasty warm. Only downside, everyone else will want to be in there enjoying the warmth and any sunshine outsidesad

I build in my garage and can recommend a gas cabinet heater, I also have a dehumidifier to keep the water vapour under control. It’s very capable of keeping me warm. I have both a smoke and CO alarm in case of any issues. An economic solution tested over several years worth of winters.


Peter Miller01/11/2019 18:32:56
10490 forum posts
1246 photos
10 articles

I am actually surprised at the coments on moisture caused by Calor gas heaters.

I live in an old cottage and I use calor gas heaters all round the house and cook on it. and never have any real problems with moisture.

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