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power panel

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Alan Gordon 501/11/2019 10:37:11
25 forum posts

Hi Guys, Looking on advice for a new power panel, Any recomendations ? I

Peter Christy01/11/2019 12:19:29
1729 forum posts


Use a good size (sub-C or C) NiMh with an ammeter in series as your glowdriver (fit inside a readily available plastic box), and fabricate a mount for a past-its-sell-by-date LiPo on your starter.

Far cheaper and more reliable than any power panel!




RC Plane Flyer01/11/2019 13:47:06
688 forum posts
19 photos

Glow DriverAgree with Peter

Here is my set up

Nigel R01/11/2019 14:32:17
3523 forum posts
540 photos

If you're going from scratch, lipo for the starter, and a couple of glow sticks for ignition. Hand crank pump for fuel.

J D 801/11/2019 15:22:50
1392 forum posts
79 photos

Sent to Ripmax for replacement power panel last year, the one I wanted was not available and the one sent was rubbish.   Gone down the route above.

Edited By J D 8 on 01/11/2019 15:26:10

brokenenglish01/11/2019 16:03:13
505 forum posts
30 photos

One of the many useful things that I've learned from this forum is that engine starters work great on an old lipo from a Wot4 foamie!
That, plus a Cyclon 2V battery and leads, and the excellent handcrank pump from HK, is a real "no problems" system.

Another advantage is that I walk out to the runway with the 2V Cyclon and leads in my pockets (separate pockets!) so, if I stall the engine, I can restart immediately, without humping the plane back to the car...

Edited By brokenenglish on 01/11/2019 16:03:40

Old Geezer02/11/2019 07:36:26
670 forum posts

I'm another power panel refusenic - had one once, vastly over rated, electric fuel pump failed quite early, adjustable glow driver output makes it so much easier to burn out a plug and the combined weight of a lead acid battery and your fuel in one container invites a slipped disc and/or a hernia. My own preference is for a retired 3000 LiFe flight battery powering my starter. My glow clip is fed from a pair of size D Duracell dry batteries soldered together in parallel and wrapped up snugly in fibre tape - these usually last at least one season ( the last pair did two ) and are pocket proof unlike some of the clip on NiMH glow drivers. And a hand cranked fuel pump - far less fuel wasted by overfilling!

cymaz02/11/2019 07:50:51
9043 forum posts
1190 photos

I had a couple of panels. The pumps are useless. I now have a Kavan fuel pump, just using the panel switch.

Have several of these

Alan Gordon 502/11/2019 08:05:45
25 forum posts

Thanks for the help and advice folks, will take all on board.

Peter Christy02/11/2019 08:36:57
1729 forum posts

One of the reasons for using a large-ish ammeter is that it makes it very easy to diagnose when an engine is flooded or dry - as well as indicating a burned out plug! Old car battery chargers, broken power panels or ebay are good sources!

Whilst different makes of plug draw different currents, once you know what the normal current is, an ammeter will show clearly any problems. If the plug is drawing more current than usual, it is flooded. If the current rises slightly when the motor is cranked by the starter, but drops back to normal when the starter is removed, it is dry.

Also bear in mind that most plugs are designed for 1.5 volts. A plug should only glow cherry red, NOT ORANGE when lit! Running it at a higher voltage will not necessarily burn it out, but it can lead to the platinum coating flaking off, leaving the wire looking dull grey. If this happens, no amount of heat will get the engine running correctly, as the combustion process relies heavily on the catalytic action of the platinum - not just the temperature!

Cylon cells may be OK if used with long leads - say 3 ft of bell wire. But with a decent single NiMh, it is impossible to damage a plug by over-driving it, yet such a cell will deliver all the current that a plug needs.



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