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Sabre build "Gotchas"

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Martin Gay27/11/2019 10:16:41
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344 forum posts
245 photos

Chris McG has requested a thread that contains all of the areas of the build that can lead to rework if not carried out in order.

Please fell free to add to this thread anything that caught, or nearly caught, you out.

Martin Gay27/11/2019 10:22:32
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344 forum posts
245 photos

Fuselage build:

  • Slide F14 through F6 before fitting F4 and F7.
  • Ensure F15 is fitted before gluing F9 and F10 to the upper, and lower, spines.
  • Fit the laminated WP1's before joining the two fuselage halves.
  • Assemble, and fit, the battery box before joining the fuselage halves.
  • Fit fuselage snakes (if required) before joining the fuselage halves.
  • Fit elevator pushrod to elevator bellcrank before joining the fuselage halves.
  • Fit elevator bellcrank between F15's before fitting fin.

Chris Barlow27/11/2019 10:22:40
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1904 forum posts
1308 photos

My nose block is cut the same size as F1 so needed some filler to build it out to match the planking.

Not a problem as I intended to shape the external after gluing to the model but could cause a problem if shaping before fitting.

It does still need to be shaped internally before fitting though.

McG 696927/11/2019 11:57:17
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3008 forum posts
1137 photos

oops... I did not "request" it as it was originally a 'suggestion' made by novice builder - just like me - Andrew E.

But I think it's a splendid idea to have started one, Martin. yes

Also it would be a nice place for some 'Q & A's if anyone get stuck or has some doubts.

As for a start...

> Can/should we prepare and glue the reinforcement balsa blocks at the LE (close to the dowels) before joining the two wing halves?

Thanks Martin.

Cheers

Chris

Martin Gay27/11/2019 12:45:57
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344 forum posts
245 photos

I did!

imgp0587.jpg

McG 696927/11/2019 18:03:30
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3008 forum posts
1137 photos

Thanks, Martin.

Maybe not a bad suggestion from Andrew as the thread already has 116 visits in just a few hours. yes

Cheers

Chris

McG 696928/11/2019 17:52:05
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3008 forum posts
1137 photos

Hi Martin,

Unfortunately me again... wink

I noticed on your pic above that the false LE isn't touching R3 anymore after sanding your balsa blocks to receive the ply dowel support. Am I correct?

Also the height difference between R2 and R3 gives a quite 'sharp' bending to the top sheeting at R3.

Should that create some issue w/ the top sheeting or am I worrying too much? blush

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Chris

Harry Twist30/11/2019 19:15:33
347 forum posts
256 photos

Hi Martin, this is a very minor one, not really a "gotcha" but thought it may be worth adding.

The parts come with an occasional minor triangular shaped "pip" on their edges (presumably where they are released from the parent sheet). It's no problem at all to sand them off prior to use. A surface that perhaps may get missed from this sanding is the inside square section of F2 and F4 where the battery box sits on the internal flat portions of those formers. Easy job to do before the fus is jointed. Its no great shakes if it gets missed - just helps with a flush/ tight joint between battery box and formers.

Edited By Harry Twist on 30/11/2019 19:16:10

Martin Gay03/12/2019 11:22:16
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344 forum posts
245 photos

One more gotcha!

If you are fitting tailplanes with the 10 degree dihedral make sure the pivot wire is fitted and bent up before fitting the bellcrank and fin.

N Pritchett21/02/2020 19:12:45
20 forum posts

May be in the forum posts but here it is anyway:

The rib spacing at the outer ends of the wings is typically 50mm except the end ones (R13), these are 49mm. Make sure you have the wing jig part J7 the correct way round or you will fine is impossible to line up the jig correctly with the plan. The giveaway is that the ends of J7 are slightly different as I noticed on closer inspection when I couldn’t get it to line up!

Austin Massey 103/03/2020 21:04:02
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5 forum posts
2 photos

Hi Martin,

A couple of questions:

!. does the rear elevator wire need to be sleeved? It doesn't leave much meat on my bell crank.

2. Will 6mm Dia. nylon bolts do for the wing bolts.

Thank you and Gordon for introducing me to PS building - I'm not sure if I would have jumped in so quickly

if I'd known what was going to be involved. (So much to learn..........). Mine won't be the smartest model on the slopes. When I read what Phil and Dirk are up to it makes me realize I have a long way to go.

Hope to see you at the Orme in April.

Austin

Martin Gay03/03/2020 21:27:33
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344 forum posts
245 photos

Hi Austin,

The rear elevator wire does not need to be sleeved, only the frontone - the pivot point of the elevator.

6mm wing bolts will be just fine.

Don't worry too much about what Dirk and Phil are able to do with their builds as they are masters of the craft. It gives us average builders something to aspire to.

See you on the Orme in June.

dirk tinck03/03/2020 23:23:04
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502 forum posts
780 photos

Hi Austin,my first builds were also on a lower level then today !We all try our best,that's what matterswink.See you in june !

Austin Massey 110/03/2020 09:22:06
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5 forum posts
2 photos

Hi again Martin,

another problem I need advice on: The wing has been built and covered for a few weeks. It's been in the garage for quite a while.Yesterday I noticed that part of the balsa skin had lifted up off the ribs. I brought it indoors and it's all gone nice and tight again. I used Titebond as my glue. Will it be OK when I Fibreglass and paint it, or is there a way of re-glueing it without mass demolition?

Austin

Andy Meade10/03/2020 09:55:45
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2746 forum posts
704 photos

I'd try and fix that before glassing. If you know where the ribs / webbing is under the sheeting, I'd puncture the skins with a fat pin or needle in several places, through to the underlying structure. Wick thin cyano in through those holes whilst applying pressure to ensure skin adhesion.

Austin Massey 110/03/2020 10:32:07
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5 forum posts
2 photos

Thanks Andy, will try that.

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