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DB Hurricane paint and finish.

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Jon - Laser Engines13/02/2020 09:35:47
5203 forum posts
237 photos

A cowl/spinner can ruin a model. I often see models where it looks like the cowl has been fitted and then the engine installed afterwards through a cavernous hole. It makes me shudder just to think about it.

Anyway, i always try and get them as neat as i can. The super secret trick is to deliberately mount the engine 5mm short and then shim it forward to the perfect position once everything is in its final places

Jon - Laser Engines17/02/2020 08:47:21
5203 forum posts
237 photos

Another pants weekend means more time in the shed with rain hammering the window.

only small progress this week with the wing painted grey saturday afternoon and then i got started on the green. Sadly, my tin of green spray paint attacked the grey paint below it so i had to scrape it off once it was dry enough. Then it was out with the airbrush again to tidy up using green enamel paint from a tin this time.

Note to self, even spray paints claiming to be enamel can attack enamel paints. I think the propellants are a bit savage.

Anyway with that sorted i started marking out the roundels as i have decided to paint them. This required me to extend my compass with some wood but i got there in the end.

As it turns out, painting circles is hard and i also was not satisfied with the colour of my red paint...soo i mixed up another colour but am on the fence as to its suitability. I also brush painted the first of the rough painted areas from the photo. I am happy with the appearance, its just the difference between the sprayed edges and painted edges are a little too stark so i need to do something to even them out.

No photos of all this yet as i am still faffing with it.

My other mission was to prep the fuselage for painting and that means i have to get the engine out. Before all that i need to finish the cowl with its various holes and, most importantly, its cooling baffles.

The next 3 photos show the process for getting the baffles neat and tidy without spending all day on it. Its pretty simple. Glue in some small sticks in the right place so that you can work without having to take the cowl on and off 100 times

hurri 31.jpg

Then fill in the gap.

hurri 29.jpg

aaand its done.

hurri 30.jpg

I then made a simple triangle which i fitted to the bottom half of the cowl between the cylinders. This needed a small tweak to conform to the shape of the fin barrels but it worked out well. No photo though, i was getting hungry!

Nigel R17/02/2020 12:21:47
3500 forum posts
532 photos

So your baffling here is just a plate to prevent flow bypassing the fins. Obviously effective as there is only one way the air can go - right past where it is needed.

I've seen some really tight internal shaping on cowls, does that make any odds or is it just gold plating the job?

Jon - Laser Engines17/02/2020 12:51:47
5203 forum posts
237 photos
Posted by Nigel R on 17/02/2020 12:21:47:

So your baffling here is just a plate to prevent flow bypassing the fins. Obviously effective as there is only one way the air can go - right past where it is needed.

I've seen some really tight internal shaping on cowls, does that make any odds or is it just gold plating the job?

I just use flat plates. In essence, i turn the front of the cowl into a cold air/high pressure area and the back half into a hot air/low pressure area. The high pressure is caused by the ram air effect and the low pressure is helped by rear facing air outlets. As long as the pressure in the front of the cowl is higher than the pressure anywhere in the air exit ducting the air will flow out.

As for the often mentioned 1 in 3 out rule, its a non issue if you have a pressure gradient on your side. Also, if you have something like a sea fury with a cowl opening of 150mm you might think that is your air inlet dimension. In reality, the only air inlet is the 2mm clearance between the baffle and the engine and not the hole in the front of the cowl. This is why tightly baffled engines run cooler with smaller holes than those hanging out in the breeze.

Jon - Laser Engines23/02/2020 20:43:13
5203 forum posts
237 photos

Yet another windy weekend gives more time to work. I even did some weeding in the garden!

But, the hurricane has progressed nicely and instead of boring you all with details i will just post pictures.

hurri 32.jpg


Chris Freeman 324/02/2020 09:10:22
326 forum posts
468 photos

Very Nice Jon, nice matt finish. Does not look like you had too much time to do the weeding! It is always so much time to the the masking and then you just have to take it all off after painting, about as much fun as weeding!

Denis Watkins24/02/2020 09:18:45
4177 forum posts
83 photos

These photos make the hairs on my neck stand up Jon

The 1st time I saw these colours were On a 2/- ( shilling ) model from Woolworths, decorated from brushed on Matt tinlet paint.I

We're some kits 1/- 9d ?

The scheme is exceptional

Edited By Denis Watkins on 24/02/2020 09:21:38

Jon - Laser Engines24/02/2020 10:11:38
5203 forum posts
237 photos

Thanks guys

Masking really is a chore but i didnt have a choice. The full size i am trying to copy was mostly brush painted and this left a very hard edge to the camo. Normally i leave a soft edge with my airbrush but that was not an option this time.

While the photos do not show it very well the green on the outer ends of the wings is badly brush painted to emulate the full size. I then sprayed the inner section to get the darker colour that is clear in the photos. The green on the tail will be badly brush painted but i will see if i can make it a little lighter as i went too dark on the wings. Not that it will really matter.

The only good thing about masking is the great reveal when you tear it all off.

For the roundels i originally painted them freehand but they were too wobbly. In the end i stuck some masking tape down and used my compass with a blade in it to give a better edge between the red and the blue. The outer edge of the blue is still free hand and wobbly but again, this is to mirror the awful finish on the full size i am trying to copy.

Once its all done i will then have at it with some wetndry paper and see if i can make it look as filthy as i can but i still have to paint, mask, paint, mask....etc for the fuselage codes, roundels and fin flash. Tonight i might try and slap the green paint on the tail but as its cold at the moment i cant leave it in the shed to dry so have to bring it in. The smell is lovely, but its probably not very healthy.

Engine Doctor24/02/2020 11:41:33
2408 forum posts
31 photos

Hi John you can get a soft sprayed edge by using some foam edge masking strip . Its primary use is for sticking inside car door jams to get a soft edge . I used it on a yellow aircraft spitfire to great effect. Downside is its expensive if you have by a whole box . A car repair shop may be able to help with a smaller quantity .

Jon - Laser Engines24/02/2020 15:13:57
5203 forum posts
237 photos

I have seen those in use and have always meant to try them. In this case though i needed a hard edge to mirror the full size. Its something i may try on my next project which is likely to be a Spitfire of some kind.

dan h24/02/2020 15:40:31
90 forum posts
23 photos

Looks fantastic jon!

For future ref.....Another way to get a soft edge is to get some masking tape and fold a little bit back on itself. So the softer edge you want the further back you fold the tape on itself.

Hope that makes sense


Jon - Laser Engines25/02/2020 08:10:15
5203 forum posts
237 photos

Cheers Dan

normally i leave soft edges with the airbrush as i have a few to choose from and some give a really fine spray.

Certainly my next projects will have soft edges, if only because it saves on masking!

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