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DB Hurricane paint and finish.

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Tim Flyer30/06/2020 22:22:25
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1290 forum posts
236 photos

Coming on nicely 👍 Great cammo! Don’t forget to clean the windscreen 😉

Chris Walby01/07/2020 06:19:57
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1251 forum posts
308 photos

Looking really good there Jon, what are you going to use as fuel proofer over the excellent paint job?

PS, I assume it will be straight on to the low oil content fuel when it comes to running the engine?

Jon - Laser Engines01/07/2020 08:31:33
5516 forum posts
270 photos

Yea it will be on the diet fuel from the off. I dont see any need to run with more.

In recent years my go to fuel proofer has been Mr Epoxy from Mick Reeves. Its an absolute nightmare to use, i mean really its just awful, but it does seem fuel proof even if it never actually seems to set solid. Anyway i have a little of it left but its no longer available so i might use that stuff in the area around the engine and then just use some clear matt enamel over the rest. I used clear enamel on my La7 on the areas that do not get that oily and after 10 years its still hanging on.

Ron Gray01/07/2020 08:52:14
2186 forum posts
942 photos

Try Sadolins P67 Jon, it's tuff as old boots and sprays really well (thinned of course). The only downside is that you have to buy a fairly large tin of the stuff. You can get it in gloss or satin finish.

Jon - Laser Engines01/07/2020 09:29:14
5516 forum posts
270 photos

How do you thin it Ron? I have to over enamel so its a bit dodgy with cellulose

Ron Gray01/07/2020 09:31:29
2186 forum posts
942 photos

There is, of course, Klass Kote which you can have a matt finish catalyst, costs quite bit (£42 for 1/2 pint) but it is real quality stuff.

mal brewer01/07/2020 10:17:23
316 forum posts
1 photos

I've always used 2-pack clear varnish as supplied to motor vehicle re-finishers.Sprays beautifuuly,but you do need full breathing gear when using it. I don't know if matt or egg-shell finish is available,might be worth trying a paint supplier.........Mal

Ron Gray01/07/2020 10:31:15
2186 forum posts
942 photos
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 01/07/2020 09:29:14:

How do you thin it Ron? I have to over enamel so its a bit dodgy with cellulose

Cellulose thinner! Spraying over enamel is OK as long as you go really light with the first coat, a real mist coat is needed. Once that's on then you can spray other coats but, again, don't go over thick with the coats, light and many is the mantra!

Jon - Laser Engines01/07/2020 11:05:21
5516 forum posts
270 photos
Posted by Ron Gray on 01/07/2020 10:31:15:
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 01/07/2020 09:29:14:

How do you thin it Ron? I have to over enamel so its a bit dodgy with cellulose

Cellulose thinner! Spraying over enamel is OK as long as you go really light with the first coat, a real mist coat is needed. Once that's on then you can spray other coats but, again, don't go over thick with the coats, light and many is the mantra!

I have to dust the Mr epoxy on too as that is thinned with celly. Hmmm, not sure what do do as the p67 isnt cheap. Still cheaper than klass cote though

Scott Edwards 201/07/2020 11:13:38
216 forum posts
97 photos

For painting large models I've switched to useing automotive basecoat paint and 2K laquer. Totally fuel proof, and lovely to work with, but you do need an eff off mask. Max Meyer do a semi gloss (code 0750) coupled with their fast hardener (code 8000) and their universal thinners. I use it to fuel proof engine bays too. Nothing gets through it.

Jon - Laser Engines01/07/2020 11:38:22
5516 forum posts
270 photos

Will the thinners eat enamel though? I like enamel's as they are easy to spray and easy to work with. I also dont need to set up a biohazard exclusion zone around the shed to cover off the fumes. The snag is, they melt when you spray over them

Scott Edwards 201/07/2020 12:04:47
216 forum posts
97 photos
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 01/07/2020 11:38:22:

Will the thinners eat enamel though? I like enamel's as they are easy to spray and easy to work with. I also dont need to set up a biohazard exclusion zone around the shed to cover off the fumes. The snag is, they melt when you spray over them

I don't know ☹️ You're very welcome to blag my supply of the stuff to have a go with though ?

Alan Gorham_01/07/2020 12:58:00
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1288 forum posts
145 photos

Like Scott, I now paint my scale IC models with automotive basecoat and use 2K clear as fuelproofer. I've used gloss and semi gloss and both are impervious to glow fuel.

I have tested the ability to overspray 2K clear over the following paints with no ill effects, but as already discussed, they key is to mist on the first coat and make sure you've covered the entire airframe before hitting it with a heavier top coat:

Halfords rattle can acrylic

Humbrol enamel

Warbirds Color waterbased

Tamiya Acrylic

Flair Spectrum enamel (now called Guild)

Obviously make sure your base coats are fully cured hard before spraying on the 2K.

Jon - Laser Engines01/07/2020 13:22:33
5516 forum posts
270 photos

Cheers Scott. I might pinch a little and just test it on something. I could paint up a test piece and see if it gets munched by the thinners

Ron Gray01/07/2020 13:30:37
2186 forum posts
942 photos

I have used Flair Spectra fuel proofer and whilst others don't rate it, the models I've used it on (especially in engine bays) have been fine.

David P Williams01/07/2020 13:49:12
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913 forum posts
318 photos

I use this - they sell a matting agent too so you can mix from gloss through satin to matt. It's always worked well for me, last model sprayed striaght over enamel no problem, even with a small amount of cellulose thinners.

Tim Flyer01/07/2020 14:02:08
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1290 forum posts
236 photos

On my Chipmunk I used RC Colours clear polyurethane as exterior “fuel proofer” on the cowl and oratex covered surfaces.  I had to do that as my rattle can paint was acrylic based and I didn’t want to play” Russian Roulette “ with whether the Tuff Kote fuel proofer may react. The polyurethane is certainly oil resistant but where the cowl has been splashed with raw fuel near the air vent by filling, there is some very slight surface bubbling after around a dozen flights and Some messy filling. . Given the convenience of polyurethane I would probably use it again . What I’m doing now is connecting a silicone line from the vent back into the fuel can when filling, which prevents messy spray damage.

Edited By Tim Flyer on 01/07/2020 14:02:57

John Stainforth02/07/2020 12:18:05
362 forum posts
64 photos

Jon, you definitely should paint up several test pieces for your fuel-proofing. (Klass Kote is a superb paint, but it is very aggressive on almost anything else.) I had four failures with test pieces with my S6b before I found something that worked.

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