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Rob's F-86F NASA 228 research aircraft build

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robk29/03/2020 13:33:35
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167 photos

A few days later and I had given it a first sand with wet and dry paper (wet). Then have given it its first coat of filler-primer (actually two coats). This revealed a few obvious gaps which I filled then sanded it down again with wet and dry. I am a bit surprised at how much the weave of the glass still shows through the paint. Not sure why? The peel ply looked pretty filled. Anyway, after this sanding it feels much smoother. When the wind calms down I will give it a couple of coats of grey primer. Not only the first glassed model for me its also the first one I have painted with the spray paint (using Halfords stuff). The close up photo looks worse than it actually is - not sure why.

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Edited By robk on 29/03/2020 13:34:51

Martin Gay29/03/2020 17:43:08
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387 forum posts
255 photos

Rob,

Looks good. In the past I have varished over the primer with "Diamond Hard" varnish. Over that I have sprayed a few different colours. All this gets rubbed back with wet-n-dry, used wet. When the primer colour starts to appear then you have sanded enough. Do this a few times for a super smooth surface. Then paint the required scheme.

Martin.

David Sack29/03/2020 19:20:17
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27 forum posts
36 photos

Superb, the lighting is critical in your photo and the shadows enhance the surface effect, making it look worse - in your opinion - but in fact I think it looks pretty darned good. Martin talks about the diamond hard which is a polyurethane resin. IMO this is the perfect way forward providing a lightweight durable finish. Follow Martins instructions !

Peter Garsden29/03/2020 22:20:49
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1723 forum posts
1297 photos

Peel Ply is good because it soaks up resin, however you can produce the same effect with kitchen roll. It leaves, however, an imprint of the cloth weave. If you want a smooth finish then you have to wrap it in cling film for example. So you will have to fill the imprint of the weave with filler.

Peter Garsden29/03/2020 22:20:50
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1723 forum posts
1297 photos

Peel Ply is good because it soaks up resin, however you can produce the same effect with kitchen roll. It leaves, however, an imprint of the cloth weave. If you want a smooth finish then you have to wrap it in cling film for example. So you will have to fill the imprint of the weave with filler.

robk30/03/2020 11:30:52
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120 forum posts
167 photos

Thanks guys. Just so happens I have some of that varnish in stock. I have used it in the past over solartex finishes to toughen it up and it works fine that way. I will take your advice and use it on this model. Last night I painted on the grey primer so will now give it a coat of varnish.

robk03/04/2020 12:51:06
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120 forum posts
167 photos

I have given it many coats of varnish and grey primer and much sanding. The varnish was good advice, however, my inferior planking has come home to roost and I think this is as good as it will get. So I have sprayed on the silver base coat. This plane's finish will not earn any prizes but I have learnt a lot for the next one. That's called being philosophical! I think it will be passable once all the other colours, details and weathering are done. At least its shiny now!

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Next job is connecting all these servos and making sure they work appropriately. The setup looks quite neat.

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Edited By robk on 03/04/2020 12:52:02

Alan Gorham_03/04/2020 12:59:42
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1259 forum posts
145 photos
Posted by robk on 29/03/2020 13:33:35:

A few days later and I had given it a first sand with wet and dry paper (wet). Then have given it its first coat of filler-primer (actually two coats). This revealed a few obvious gaps which I filled then sanded it down again with wet and dry. I am a bit surprised at how much the weave of the glass still shows through the paint. Not sure why? The peel ply looked pretty filled. Anyway, after this sanding it feels much smoother. When the wind calms down I will give it a couple of coats of grey primer. Not only the first glassed model for me its also the first one I have painted with the spray paint (using Halfords stuff). The close up photo looks worse than it actually is - not sure why.

img_2094.jpeg

img_2095.jpeg

Edited By robk on 29/03/2020 13:34:51

Rob, sorry if this sounds like wise after the event, but if these pics here are the base point at which you started putting your silver paint over, then you have missed out several intermediate stages that would help to give you a better base for the top colour coats to over and also a lighter model....

When you glass with peel ply you will be left with a "stippled" texture to the glass when you have removed the peel ply. At this point you must block sand the model with something coarse such as 80 grade ali oxide paper to take off the tops of all these "stipples".

You then spray filler primer to fill the low points in the stipples, but you must then remove the primer from the high spots using wet n dry used wet. Once you have done this process in 2 or 3 iterations, you will find most low points are filled and any dings, dents or depressions should be filled with a surfacing filler such a 3M red acryl. Once you have rubbed this smooth you can put one light primer coat over the whole lot, rub that down with wet n dry used wet and only then think about putting on top colour coats.

If you do that you should barely (if at all) be able to see the weave of the glasscloth, but you will have much less paint on the model overall.

It is a ball-ache to do all that rubbing down, but worth it I feel in the end result.

dirk tinck04/04/2020 23:06:30
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590 forum posts
822 photos

Totally agree with Alan but i sand everything dry.Wet sanding is history in automotive painting.

robk22/04/2020 15:25:10
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120 forum posts
167 photos

Been a while since I posted but I have been doing some work. Whilst waiting for paint etc. via the mail I have looked up some of the markings that will be needed for my chosen version NASA 228. I then had a go at the cockpit, painting it up (as well as the pilot to make him look less military). The paint arrived earlier this week so I spent a couple of days masking up. Then a sunny day today (if a little windy) so decided to do it. I found a quite corner of the garden and took my time. This is the first time I have done any spraying so I am pretty pleased with the result. Next stage will be the black parts of the design.

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robk22/04/2020 15:26:01
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120 forum posts
167 photos

As a reminder this is what Im going for.

nasa 228.jpeg

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img_2195.jpg

Edited By robk on 22/04/2020 15:26:32

Phil Cooke22/04/2020 15:52:36
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2551 forum posts
1796 photos

Hey - looking good Rob! Lovely work!

Martin Gay22/04/2020 16:23:52
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387 forum posts
255 photos

Very nice Rob. There will be no mistaking that model in the air.

McG 696922/04/2020 18:36:11
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3177 forum posts
1199 photos

Hi Rob,

I think I remember this pilot.

Great improvement since he received a lick of paint.

I'm very busy with mine as well at the moment.

You're nearly there, young man. yes

Cheers & stay safe

Chris

Andy Meade22/04/2020 21:55:44
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2764 forum posts
717 photos

Not far off at all now Rob, great work. That scheme is really going to "ping" in the sunlight - good choice!

robk27/04/2020 17:39:36
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120 forum posts
167 photos

Thanks Guys. The next job was painting the black and yellow sections on the plane same as before. Then, here is what I have been doing with the markings. I decided to have a go myself as (a) this is a model I am learning from and (b) I'm mean! I found the odd markings like the NASA meatball logo on the internet and downloaded the correct fonts for the lettering. I then typed/assembled them on a simple word document changing the size as required. I also found a decal set for an F86 with all the small lettering - it was the wrong scale and cost $150! So instead of using that I grabbed some of the lettering and markings from a pinterest file and then edited them in Photoshop so they would be the right size and colour and print ok. I printed everything out on my home inkjet printer on ordinary paper and cut them up to check the size was right - I tweaked some of the sizes. Then I printed them out onto inkjet decal paper and sprayed this with matt varnish.

img_2254.jpg

robk27/04/2020 17:45:42
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120 forum posts
167 photos

The result - not all have been placed yet. This was quite painless actually. I recommend these inkjet decals. There are some issues in that the eagle-eyed will notice that you can't print white so a transparent paper will just show the colour below. You can get white backed decal paper but then you have to cut exactly around every part of the image - not practical for most things. Also any pale colour will show the colour below - however, I have a fix for it. I will try it for the RESCUE arrows which are yellow and see if it works... img_2256.jpg

robk27/04/2020 17:46:44
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120 forum posts
167 photos

img_2313.jpgAnd now onto the panel lines - just using Edding waterproof marker pens for this and a flexible ruler.

img_2312.jpg

Phil Cooke27/04/2020 21:23:12
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2551 forum posts
1796 photos

Lovely work Rob, great stuff! Congrats on the homebrew decals they look great - brilliant that the mass build venture is nurturing all these new skills and capabilities!!

McG 696927/04/2020 22:14:50
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3177 forum posts
1199 photos

Indeed, great work, Rob.

I just used some water transfers myself to add some details to my cockpit and pilot.

Works a threat, as you mentioned.

Cheers

Chris

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