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RBC Dornier 335

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Erfolg12/01/2020 23:37:52
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11551 forum posts
1270 photos

In defense of RBC, I suspect that kits produced are small in number. I also guess that not many have been built by RBC. RBC probably supply models that are not mainstream, a bit quirky, they are far more interesting.

It would not surprise me that this is just one guy, who has to design, build the prototype, cut the kit, source all of the kit materials, package the kit, deal with the accounts (cash flow) and tax.

By ARTF standards, the total build cost is far higher.

As for the 335, it is bigger than i thought. It is worth doing, although my model will not be as scale and detailed as the French example. I just feel it will fly, probably quite well, look good in the air, to my eye.

The down side is, i do wish i had beefed up the UC mounting, as our field imparts a bit of pounding.

I do hope you find the build interesting, even my cock ups, I always manage a few.

Erfolg22/01/2020 12:31:16
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11551 forum posts
1270 photos

Whilst I wait for suitable motors to become available I have turned my attention to the nose and tail mouldings where the motors will go.

The supplied moulding unfortunately are very flimsy, akin to those often found in some of the early cheap far eastern imported kits. Perhaps they could be of even poorer quality. Certainly the worst aspect of this kit.

What to do about it? In the past i have made similar cowlings by building up a nose area.

epoxy1.jpg

Both of the cowls above were made by slightly different methods, they all work. All involve a layers of balsa wound onto formers then put in a drill an slowly sanded down, as in a crude cylindrical grinder.

In this case I have some mouldings which are a little less than I would really like. In this case I think I will give another method i have used in the past. Which is to use the mouldings as formers to create a mould. In the past i used Plaster of Paris, now finding a reasonable art shop requires me to travel. This time I decided to use finishing plaster as used on walls, I have used it previously for my grandkids school projects. The down side it does not set as fast, and probably uses more water. meaning it will be weeks before it is approaching dry, during the intervening time it's weak.

wp_20200122_11_39_36_pro.jpg

The mouldings are so flimsy that I need to support them to make them concentric/round.

wp_20200122_11_50_32_pro.jpg

I cut out corrugated cardboard discs which i inserted into the moulds whilst pouring, with internal weights to stop the mouldings floating.

I am not to concerned with the nose cone as it appears to be reasonably round and of the right shape. The rear cowling is another matter. I am not sure it is near enough to fit well, where its flimsy properties would possibly allow it to be pulled into shape. I also know i cannot mould this with to a heavy lay up, as weight at the back, has most unfortunate CG consequences.

In the case of the rear, I will try cutting and filing to get a good shape. If all else fails it will be a balsa and ply built up structure.

In the next week or so i will clean the inside of the mould out, then start wax polishing the inside. I the past i have found that 6 coats are over kill but work. I still have some old blue moulding PVA which I will try.

My intention has now moved to Polyester Resin, as I can buy a small quantity from Halfords.

 

Edited By Erfolg on 22/01/2020 12:32:33

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