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Bespoke water slide decals

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Erfolg13/12/2019 11:39:51
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11700 forum posts
1309 photos

I do not believe that the dragon is an issue with respect to its shape, nor the detail, in itself.

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These are the decals that I produced for my Gee Bee.

To a large extent it all comes down to the printer, its printing resolution and also its ability to scan, again resolution. The other issue then can be your art package. Unfortunately both of my preferred art packages are no longer on my PC. I have struggled with GIMP, it is obviously a very good package, the problem is with me, and how it does things, because controlled by the right person, it is great.

As you can see I had several attempts before I produced satisfactory results, that is to me. I must emphasize that the issue is me, not the process. Although not all Decal sheets are of the same quality, be it clear or white.

Returning to my decals, there is a mixture of small print and art work in the form of the Panther.

The issue of gloss or not glossy, is a non issue on our models, I finish the decals with either gloss, satin or matt WBV. I tend now to cover the whole model now in WBV as i find that on its own, Acrylic is not as durable as the old Humbrol Enamel. Humbrol enamel was the only oil based paint system that I found to be easy to use, both in spraying and cleaning, all the other products i tried were pants.

Edited By Erfolg on 13/12/2019 11:40:12

Erfolg13/12/2019 11:49:40
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11700 forum posts
1309 photos

Another set of decals that I have produced, Perhaps not the most taxing, although the chrome effect "H" came out well.

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Capt Kremen13/12/2019 15:39:27
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349 forum posts
134 photos

I've used a 'hybrid' method - printed decal paper + clear vinyl scrap (from a kit decal sheet).

Having a Multiplex 'Fun Cub', I fancied a fun scale 'Piper J3' scheme including the iconic cub bear insignia that adorns the tail of those yellow J3 aircraft.

After downloading the image from the net, I printed it on decal paper. Then, using clear self-adhesive vinyl from the surround area of the MPX kit insignia, covered the 'cub', allowing sufficient surround to attach to the model.

After several seasons, the 'FunCub' displays the usual foam model 'hangar rash' but the insignia remains firmly attached and in perfect nick with cub transfer #1.jpgno peeling or curling.

For Foam models, this would seem a very practical and certainly durable option as water slide decals alone, tend not to adhere long term to these surfaces.

Monz13/12/2019 17:13:47
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550 forum posts
31 photos
Posted by Don Fry on 12/12/2019 20:27:41:

How big is that bit of flying art?

1/10th scale, rubber powered.

Monz13/12/2019 17:27:38
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550 forum posts
31 photos
Posted by Harrier Mate on 12/12/2019 21:40:46:

Monz,

amazing scheme. And so much cheaper than Arizona Models fabric (about £150 for just the wings). Could you tell me more about that technique. You have clearly covered the model in a base layer first.... plain tissue or fabric? And then applied the printed lozenge to tissue???

The model is covered in jap tissue with a coat of dope to seal it. I built a test frame to see how the decal would react to it. On the test frame I had different sections with different treatments - non shrinking dope, banana oil, shrinking dope, matt, semi gloss and gloss varnish. In the end it was three coats of very thinned Tamiya gloss varnish over one coat of shrinking dope that worked the best.

I drew up the lozenge pattern in Photoshop to match the lozenge on the reference aircraft, along with the other decals like stencils, markings etc and scaled it to match the three view I built from. Where there were white stencils I did a light grey decal and then hand painted over that with white enamel. The white rib tapes are all 2mm wide strips of white decal paper applied individually. That and the hand painted stencils were an exercise in patience!

The domestic laser MFP's are a much better investment over any domestic inkjet.

Monz13/12/2019 17:36:21
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550 forum posts
31 photos

Decals need a good gloss coat to adhere properly so on foam models a coat or two of gloss WBV will give a nice surface to work on. Once the decals are on then another coat of gloss varnish will seal them in and also get rid of the 'silvering' (edges of the decal). Then a coat of semi or matt varnish for whatever finish you're going for. A couple coats of thinned varnish on large models adds hardly any noticeable weight.

Here are the decals I made for my two Impalas, one 1/4 and the other 1/10 - Both sealed after with a gloss and the edges of the decal disappear completely. Again, the white is hand painted over a grey text decal.

Erfolg13/12/2019 18:39:11
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11700 forum posts
1309 photos

I am getting the impression that Monz is creating his Decals from scratch. That is coating onto a surface such as a gummed paper with WBV. Then printing or hand painting onto this substrate. Finally over spraying the art work.

Such work is beyond both my abilities and patience. I just buy in Decal paper onto which I print. My over spraying the art work is to both protect it and to increase the total thickness.

My methods are about deskilling the process. Which I have to do.

Monz14/12/2019 09:02:55
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550 forum posts
31 photos
Posted by Erfolg on 13/12/2019 18:39:11:

I am getting the impression that Monz is creating his Decals from scratch. That is coating onto a surface such as a gummed paper with WBV. Then printing or hand painting onto this substrate. Finally over spraying the art work.

Such work is beyond both my abilities and patience. I just buy in Decal paper onto which I print. My over spraying the art work is to both protect it and to increase the total thickness.

My methods are about deskilling the process. Which I have to do.

Not sure how you come to that conclusion?

All I do is buy in laser decal paper onto which I print....

Erfolg14/12/2019 14:18:23
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11700 forum posts
1309 photos

My mistake Monz.

All the same, it does go to show how many methods there are to create decals.

In this era, the Ink and Laser jet have to be the easiest method of creating the physical image. Using the internet to obtained images and the various art packages require less innate skill, although arguably more knowledge and equipment.

Painting using a brush is dependent on skill.

The final method must be via the well padded wallet.

Harrier Mate14/12/2019 20:19:26
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179 forum posts
59 photos

Thanks Guys..... there is clearly a wealth of information and techniques available. Thank you for sharing.... I will certainly explore the whole lozenge camouflage pattern as a pair on decal after seeing the cost of commercially available lozenge fabric. 🤣

mans with a small test piece first I can just experiment.... here goes!
Thanks again to all the tips...

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