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I hope to assemble a laser cutter/engraver

5065cm Engraving Area 3000MW DIY Kit Desktop Laser Cutting

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Erfolg15/01/2020 15:54:11
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11565 forum posts
1274 photos

Flynn

It does seem that they are all the same, but all a little different.

The supplied extrusions with my kit is symmetrical,

I have noted that some kits come with both "T" slots and "T" nuts, my kit has not, I just get hex nuts, that ideally need some filling to fit reasonably.

Anyway, in general terms I have followed your ideas.

I firstly modified a metal cutting saw blade to fit my picture frame saw.

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Took the side rails off, or dismantled the frame. I then strapped the two side pieces together. Having determined how much need removing to fit a max. 12" ply sheet. I marked the extrusions using a Engineers square all around. Fastened them on the picture frame mitre table. Then started sawing. I am glad I did mark the extrusions all around, as my eye suggested the cut was not straight and true to the "X" and "Y" faces. The marked lines told a different story. Age and lack of skill could have caused me many difficulties.

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The lack of depth to the hacksaw blade, required me to rotate/turn the extrusions through 90 degrees to finish the cutting.

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The finished cut.

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I expected the aluminum to be pretty soft. To my surprise a bit harder, possibly a 6000 series rather than the 2000 grade more often encountered ( a bit malleable). Tapping although not really hard, did requite a bit of effort, using WD40 as the lubricant and to wash the cuttings away. The washing the cuttings away did not happen. I did use the standard half turn and back of to break the chip technique. A lot of cleaning was needed later.

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All back together in a more usable form. All arranged as per the advertisement photo and as seen in most videos.

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My next issue is a practical thickness and material base board. I will have to provide my own fixing arrangements, as no provision is made to fasten the frame to the base board. So come on with your experiences.

FlyinFlynn15/01/2020 16:13:38
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122 forum posts
85 photos

Well done so far....that's a nice neat cut. As to fitting it to a base board I would print up some feet with a screw hole to fix the feet down but as you don't have a printer I guess you will need to use 90 degree brackets, ether to replace the existing feet or to attach the existing feet to the base board.

I would use something around 12 mm ply - or 20mm MDF desk top, or 38 mm MDF kitchen top - whatever you can lay your hands on really, Being absolutely flat is not a prerequisite.

Erfolg15/01/2020 20:51:16
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11565 forum posts
1274 photos

I think I am going the MDF route. As weight is a bit of a driver with me

To attach to the base board I will be buying the corner blocks you see in cupboards.

I have been told that some people use a sacrificial sheet, to cut onto. I had not thought of this, intending to cut onto the base board. It surprised me that the sheet is quite thick at 1/2". My gut thoughts were along something about 1/8" board. Yet experience may be the driver for something thicker?

Erfolg17/01/2020 18:01:06
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11565 forum posts
1274 photos

Although it is not much of a job the frame is now attached to a base board.

I had forgotten that Perspex tends to adhere to the drill tip, if yo let the drill rub. Tapping was no big deal though.

I now need to add a traverse cable support. On that basis it will be of to B&Q on Monday to buy a piece of something like mild steel rod.

After mounting I will start the software download, whilst i wait for the cable extensions.

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I may batten the underside of the board with something like 3/4"*1 1/2" PLA timber.

Still waiting to hear if sacrificial board is required. to me it seems like a luxury, although I am willing to be convinced otherwise.

Martyn K17/01/2020 23:01:44
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5041 forum posts
3677 photos

Regarding the sacrificial sheet. I use 12mm ply. Th reason is to get the wood nearer the laser. Not too close or you will get problems focussing the laser.

Martyn

Martyn K17/01/2020 23:03:55
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5041 forum posts
3677 photos

Regarding the nuts, two different thicknesses of nuts are supplied. Half nuts are used in the extrusions, full nuts everywhere else

Erfolg18/01/2020 10:57:28
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11565 forum posts
1274 photos

Martyn

Just shows how little differences occur with these kits. In my kit, all the nuts are of the thin lock nut type. Even then the thickness is greater than depth of the extrusion with the timing belt, taking into consideration the shape of the extrusion. Also the nuts supplied are not of the ideal width, relying on the cross corner of the hex to span the slot adequately. I filed bevels on my nuts to take account of the extrusion shape.

Martyn K18/01/2020 11:44:13
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5041 forum posts
3677 photos

I know what you mean. Its a very strange way of operating. There were no lock nuts in my kit..

FlyinFlynn19/01/2020 11:33:49
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122 forum posts
85 photos

For "Its a very strange way of operating" read 'cheap'. Ha'penny worth of tar and all that.

Treat yourself to some drop in hammer nuts

Erfolg24/01/2020 12:26:11
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11565 forum posts
1274 photos

I am tempted to buy the hammer nuts, obviously the right bit of kit for the job.

I have yet again pinched an Idea from some one else, MartynK, it now has become my own, if anybody asks.

I fully intended to copy Martyns method exactly, except on going to B&Q, I found that it would cost approx £7 for a length of plain drawn mild steel and slightly more for Aluminum. Screwed rod was reasonably priced.

So I re-thought what should I do, the idea/concept was spot on, I just needed to rethink how to implement it. I decided on a length of dowel (from Wickes, as they do short lengths) a few short lengths of Gold coloured rod, wedded to some pretty white blocks would do the job.

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I can adjust where the bar is set, if to far forward

When I get my extension leads I will be set to go for the next bit.

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