|Nick Somerville||07/01/2020 19:30:44|
|148 forum posts|
So I am posting to ask if any contributors have experience of 2k lacquers in aerosol cans.
I am covering a Precedent Stampe mostly in Satin White Solartex and the sheeted front end of the fuselage with glass cloth sprayed over with white enamel Chroma. Now the satin white Solartex looks like it will mark up easily with grubby finger marks etc. So was wondering about a light spray of the whole model (after painting the Chroma blue sunburst and trim lines
Will the 2k satin lacquer add a lot of unnecessary weight and really I should just rely on the Chroma and tex for the fuel proofing. Fuel use for the model will be 5% nitro laser fuel btw.
|Bruce Collinson||07/01/2020 20:34:15|
|567 forum posts|
I asked Andrew Hardman of Solarfilm this and he advised a coat of Clearcoat. He still had some late last year, via new website. It leaves a glossier finish which is easier to clean. I believe there may be a way to matt it off if desired.
|Tim Flyer||07/01/2020 21:31:26|
1336 forum posts
I would be very careful putting clearcoat on top of enamel. The chroma enamels are turpentine based and clearcote is cellulose based. If the enamel is very hard and the clearcoat thin and dries quickly you might be ok but be warned that it can bubble up if you put it on thick. On my Chipmunk I’m using polyurethane as fuel proofer on the outside. I used JP clear polyurethane fuel proofer brushed thin to prevent yellowing and som RC Colours clear gloss which seems a bit less yellow. I would have liked to have used Tuffkote or one of the two pack fuel proofer SS but I couldn’t risk it as I had also used acrylic pain in parts and the solvents in the Tuffkote would probably lift it .
Edited By Tim Flyer on 07/01/2020 21:34:18
747 forum posts
If you are using 2k spay cans make sure you use the one (proper 2K) that has a hardener release valve on the bottom of the can(once activated usable for 7 hours)
But in your case don't as you have used enamel, if it was just sealing the solartex from getting grubby it be good.
I would use a very light?thin coat of epoxy lacqure see glaskote available i believe from fighteraces in the UK.
|stu knowles||09/01/2020 13:44:11|
|615 forum posts|
I can't claim to have used 2K laquer but the late Steve Dunning did and maintained that it was proof against most glow fuels. I have just filed the info away for future used but at the moment I use very little glow fuel.
|Stephen Smith 14||09/01/2020 21:41:05|
|237 forum posts|
Never used aerosol 2K but mix it as needed and use it from gun, never use anything else. First used it 25 years ago and did some experiments left painted bits in both straight and high nitro for days and it didn't effect it, in all the years with different fuels with different oils and nitro content and more recently petrol have never had any fuel damage not even a slight mark, but it is used on cars which get fuel spilled around the filler cap and you wouldn't worry about that.
|Former Member||10/01/2020 00:11:39|
|47 forum posts|
[This posting has been removed]
|Martin Leslie||10/01/2020 17:08:30|
20 forum posts
Couldn't agree more with Jeremy, read the link and follow the advice.
I ordered some 2 pack about 10 years ago and the seller warned me about the stuff and advised that I get a positive pressure face mask cos you really don't want to breathe it in. I followed his advice bought a mask, sprayed the motorcycle, brilliant, superb paint, easy to put on. 2 weeks later was rushed to a & e cos I couldn't breath, nearly passed out walking length of garden.
turns out that not only should you not breathe in the stuff but you also absorb it through your skin, it's stops your bloods ability to carry oxygen. So cover up, completely.
Won,t go anywhere near the stuff nowadays.
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