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TN Hunter EDF

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Steve Jones 204/02/2020 22:15:22
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595 forum posts
453 photos

c932946f-fa39-46ff-8099-14be2f5e0de8.jpeg

martin collins 104/02/2020 22:38:58
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442 forum posts
199 photos

Nice pair!

Steve Jones 208/02/2020 18:37:47
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595 forum posts
453 photos

All doneec15af08-46da-4734-b5e2-6d9ceddbc212.jpeg

Steve Jones 208/02/2020 18:38:31
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595 forum posts
453 photos

8ce52d9c-7ba2-499f-b0d3-a98cf55733e8.jpeg

Martin McIntosh08/02/2020 20:22:00
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3542 forum posts
1220 photos

You may already have seen my pics of the finished 133% Hunter, but here they are again.

tn hunter plus 011.jpg

tn hunter plus 012.jpgtn hunter plus 013.jpg

Steve Jones 210/02/2020 12:03:52
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595 forum posts
453 photos

Looking Great Martin - love the scheme

Steve

Pete Collins12/04/2020 10:12:15
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138 forum posts
6 photos

dsc_2849.jpgdsc_2839.jpgHI thought you'd also like to see some pix of my TN Hunter. I also decided to go for the Raspberry Ripple colour scheme for added visibility!dsc_2838.jpg

dan h12/04/2020 10:18:04
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121 forum posts
36 photos

Nice one pete that looks awesome!

Dan

Piers Bowlan12/04/2020 12:00:03
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2168 forum posts
53 photos

Very smart and beautifully executed Pete yes

fly boy312/04/2020 12:16:12
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3747 forum posts
22 photos

Exellent work indeed. May I ask are canopy markings painted or did you you film ? Thanks

Martin McIntosh12/04/2020 12:43:40
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3542 forum posts
1220 photos

I was wondering that. Neat job whatever it is.

Mowerman12/04/2020 14:01:49
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1559 forum posts
105 photos

Very nice with the saw tooth LE, just needs the sabrinas now.

Pete Collins14/04/2020 08:14:01
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138 forum posts
6 photos

The white canopy markings and the red on the rear part were both done with film. I did have a problem on the red part since you have to be very careful not to overheat the canopy whilst shrinking the film to the compound curve. The trick is to not have the iron too hot and work quickly so that the heat doesn't build up too much in any one place. solar trim might be a better option - if you can get any. If you have doubts practice on a spare bit of canopy material and be careful, once the canopy distorts there's no way back.

Rob Fairweather 114/04/2020 10:05:50
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121 forum posts
11 photos

I remember, many moons ago, I bought a little bottle or Solarfilm Solvent, which made doing canopies and overlaps so much easier.

Not Prymol, but sold as solvent ( maybe the same stuff )

stuey17/04/2020 18:53:52
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610 forum posts
12 photos

Hi chaps. I have just started my build with the CNC kit. A little head scratcher I have come across. Where the 5mm stringers fit into the rear former F9, they need to be thinned down to fit flush with the outer edge of the former. I can't find where on the plan you start thinning then down after leaving F6? Not mentioned in the build article either unless I missed it. Cheers

Pete Collins20/04/2020 10:46:21
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138 forum posts
6 photos

Hi Stuey, They just taper down over the last 3 or 4 inches of their length. Probably best done before fitting them but, if they're on already, it could be done after. Just be careful not to collapse former 9 as it's pretty fragile. The other thing that I did was to fill in the spaces between the stringers and fuselage sides with pieces of scrap balsa from former 9 back to the tail. This allowed me to sand down the rear fuselage to taper down almost to the jet pipe and produce a more pleasing (and more scale) shape to the rear end.

stuey20/04/2020 20:07:43
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610 forum posts
12 photos

Thanks for the reply Pete. I worked out that you are supposed to put notches in the stringers at the rear so they fit F9 properly. The confusion was caused by the plan referring to the stringers as spars! The same for the shallow slots on F6. I have my acetate for the thrust tube now so I can crack on Cheers

Steve Jones 206/05/2020 11:18:14
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595 forum posts
453 photos

second Hunter progressing well yesimg_3293.jpg

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Steve Jones 218/05/2020 12:00:20
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595 forum posts
453 photos

So , finally got the the field yesterday to maiden my Hunter and the second one I built for a friend.

Great day and both models flew fine once CoG set and some small trims. They fly similar to the Gnat, flast and smooth with only half power to cruise.

A couple of wake up calls with tip stalling in slower turns but that's the pilot and not the model.. keep it smooth and with a little speed in the turns and all good... cheeky

jet fleet.jpg

Michael Guinness06/08/2020 01:43:41
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8 forum posts
43 photos

Thank you Tony for your excellent EDF models. I built the Hunter after first building the Jet Provost.

My Hunter is modeled on the Rhodesian Air Force FGA 9, tail No R1821, as flown by my best mate who was shot down and killed in this a/c in 1979. I increased the plan size by 10% for both models. Using the FMS 4500kv 4 cell 50mm fan unit, 40 Amp ESC and 2200mAh battery the AUW for the Prov is 31ozs and the Hunter 28ozs. Added scale detail on the Hunter includes sabrinas (for collection of the ammo belt clips) and 230gal drop tanks. The increase in weight is partly countered by the increase in wing ares of 20%. I use a short bungee launch which works so well even in calm conditions. My Hunter flies fantastically well, smooth and fast but still lands quite slowly. The drop tanks aid visibility and orientation in this camo colour scheme.20200805_160526.jpg

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