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6 Turning 4 Burning

A scratch built project,

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Don Fry22/03/2020 19:03:29
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4557 forum posts
54 photos

Query, 6 flaps, I assume three on each side, why is one servo worth the hassle. My braincell says a lot of mechanical set-up, no electronic help, no computers.

SR 7123/03/2020 00:15:31
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433 forum posts
140 photos

Thanks Maurice, Don i did it that way to save weight, 1 servo against 6 and all the wiring, yes its been awkward, a challenge but i have nothing else to do for the next god knows how many months until this crisis is over

Erfolg23/03/2020 01:31:06
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11714 forum posts
1309 photos

Tell us a little about how the UC legs are made.

SR 7126/03/2020 07:50:05
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433 forum posts
140 photos

GearErfolg with a hacksaw, drill and file winki started again on them trying to get them to look more like the real thing, still work to do on themGear2

Erfolg26/03/2020 10:10:45
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11714 forum posts
1309 photos

What about the legs, howand from what are they made?

SR 7127/03/2020 02:54:16
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433 forum posts
140 photos

They are made from 10mm alloy tube for the outer part of the leg and 8mm alloy rod for the inner part, i had to open the tube up a smidgen and and sand down the bar a smidgen to get the opperating freely, ill get some appropriate springs to fit in the tubes. The rest i cut from the 5mm alloy plate, all make it up as i go along

Denis Watkins27/03/2020 08:04:44
4335 forum posts
104 photos

Am working with all Steel landing gear at the moment

Is not a scale model, so I could cheat buying exact wire, tube and spring sizes that fit

Only for an 8lb model, but needs to be steel on my club strip

20200327_075811.jpg

Edited By Denis Watkins on 27/03/2020 08:07:53

Erfolg27/03/2020 11:24:25
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11714 forum posts
1309 photos

Are the steel tubes, actually tubes or bright bar bored (drilled/reamed) out?

The same sort of question with respect to the plain rods.

I am really asking for a detailed, this is how I did, or do it.

SR 7128/03/2020 04:50:50
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433 forum posts
140 photos

Having brushed a coat of PA mould release on the parts to be moulded im not happy with the way it went on, never used brushed PA before always sprayed it on, have not got any spray equipment yet, when dry it feels rough, also had a job with the plasterzine used to seal the fence to the plug, would not stick at all, to polished ? or maybe because i polished the fence, ready to mould now BUT,

Andy Stephenson28/03/2020 10:16:42
144 forum posts
21 photos

SR,

It may be worth asking for help on RC Groups as there is a wealth of information there in the composites and fabrication section.

A.

Dickw28/03/2020 10:54:03
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671 forum posts
95 photos

When I brushed on PVA mould release I first applied a coat of matt "priming wax" to make sure it flowed correctly on the surface and gave me a smooth finish. Perhaps that might help here.

Dick

Erfolg28/03/2020 12:12:15
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11714 forum posts
1309 photos

It really is much easier if it is arranged to split the plug in halve after it the shaping is complete. I used to then screw the plug onto Contriboard. It has the advantage that the plastic coating is a semi prepared surface for releasing.

I thought I had a picture of one of my plugs on such a board, seems not. You can see how have in the distant past made my plugs, that is two halfs.

I had tried, again, in the distant past the method you are using, with flanges and Plasticine. I will be honest. My efforts did not look as good as yours. I could not even get a good straight flange. So when the two halfs of the mould were made, the flanges were pants. The mouldings made from them needed loads of filler on the part line.

The contriboard method, gives a really good sharp edge to the mould. So when cutting/trimming the moulding at the green stage, a good clean edge results.

Then when the two halfs of the moulds are bolted together, and the ribbon has been used to join, ideally no joint line filling is required, nor there any significant flash.

Again I will confess that I was never overly fussed about, the joint, as my competition models were going to have a rough life. Paradoxically the poorer the moulding, the less perfect the finishing, the longer the model would last.

Anyway, I am relearning myself at the moment, having forgotten how and what to do, also I have misplaced or thrown out many of the small tools I had for model moulding.

As for finish I use PVA, you can see the blue on the mouldings I have just made. I had previously polished the moulds 4 times with mould wax.

wp_20200229_17_35_22_pro.jpg

In my case most of my experience was with Polyester resin. Epoxy is much easier to release, I had expected to have to destroy the moulds to release the items. The epoxy is that little more flexible it seems, so, they came out with a little persuasion.

SR 7128/03/2020 13:08:22
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433 forum posts
140 photos

I have used the flange method before on a large cowl i made for my 1/3 scale Bucker Jungmiester with no problems, its the blue PVA that is the problem at the moment, just been in to have a look at the fuse plug, ill have to was it all off and start again, its very bad, i gave it 12 coats of polish and it was very smooth and slippery, now it feels like sandpaper,angry

Erfolg28/03/2020 13:32:19
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11714 forum posts
1309 photos

I am guessing it is not the type of PVA that I use? This type

It is good that you can get the stuck on flange method to work, for me it was beyond my abilities.

The split plug method works even with numpties, like me. The limitation is that it works best when it is part of the original plug concept. As cutting something like you have made, would again be beyond my abilities. OMG, do not seem to have much in the way of abilities.sad

SR 7129/03/2020 16:31:50
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433 forum posts
140 photos

Even the gell coat did not go on to well on the small parts i decided to go ahead with, although except for one they all came off the plugs ok the surface feels rough, nothing i cannot put right, but

Iv contacted the surppliers to see what they have to say, maybe i need a different supplyer, the bit of glassing i did in Cyprus i never had these problems, i have stripped the fencing of the fuselage plug now ill have to clean it up and start again, such is life

ken anderson.29/03/2020 16:50:52
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8637 forum posts
779 photos

SR 71,i'm following your build with interest. Your a prolific builder there to say the least...well done..

ken anderson...ne..1...….. prolific dept.

SR 7131/03/2020 20:02:29
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433 forum posts
140 photos

Thanks Ken i like to hack them out as you can see in my album, i could not bring my F104 with me from Cyprus as i would not be allowed to fly it here, we had NO rules in Cyprus, just common sense

Erfolg09/05/2020 15:54:23
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11714 forum posts
1309 photos

A bit of encuoragement, this model was built in 1975 by a Tony Nelson of the "North NorfolkClub". It weighed in at 23 ib.. Built to 1/22 nd scale. Powered by three Mercos 35. two Fox 35, and one OS 40.

I wonder if either the club are still going and if Tony stills builds models or flies models?

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