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Weston Capiche 140 Refurb

Giving leccy life to an old I/C airframe

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Adrian Smith 109/04/2020 14:10:26
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

Easy jobs first. I set about opening up the pipe tunnel hatch holes to increase the airflow.

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Also found a spare tail wheel assembly that will fit. Needs a bit of a clean up though before fitting.

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Adrian Smith 109/04/2020 14:17:50
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

A piece of luck today as when measuring the prop driver to the rear of the mount with the motor actually in front of me showed it is 77mm, not the shorter distance I previously thought so I should be able to fit the original stand offs which are 76mm. Given the motor wall is 150mm from the cowl exit this should suffice give or take the odd washer.

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The Motor mount that came with it looks to fit within the motor wall with stand offs attached.

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I will use dowel to block up the original holes drilled using epoxy resin.

Adrian Smith 109/04/2020 14:24:39
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

It just shows you should look through the workshop drawer as I found a nice electric prop spinner and a 20x10 electric prop that will do nicely.

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The one nagging doubt I have is I think fitting 2 x 5S lipos into the fuselage could be problematic if they are required to sit back from the original tank bay. The fuselage is also quite narrow too. I will address that later.

I understand the decorating paint brush is call for a couple days work so I am going to be otherwise engaged for a bit!!

Ron Gray09/04/2020 16:32:01
1920 forum posts
799 photos

I think that you may well be massively over propped with a 20x10 on 10s!

Adrian Smith 109/04/2020 16:35:56
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

That's what it says on the box on the spec label, Ron. What would you suggest?

Ron Gray09/04/2020 17:07:22
1920 forum posts
799 photos

For my Rascal I run it with a 16 x 8 prop. Here are the eCalc figures based on my rough specs, and yes, I know eCalc isn't necessarily spot on but TBH, in my case, it was.

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Adrian Smith 109/04/2020 18:09:22
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

TBH as your realise I am not a great theorist, more a case of try it and see what works or recommended.

As an example (and the reason why I had the spare prop) I had a Bondaero MX2 (2 metre - 78" W/S) before I sold it, see link:-

**LINK**

This plane that I used to fly has almost the similar spec as size, motor, weight etc as the Capiche 140 I am going to use (apart from age of course) Among the prop recommendations you will see 20x10 electric prop is on the list. I can testify when I flew this MX2 it performed very well and did not appear to be over/under propped at all quite the reverse it flew extremely well. Hence the reason I found a spare prop and decided to use it. Glad a smaller prop worked for you

Peter Jenkins10/04/2020 00:00:59
1520 forum posts
254 photos

Sorry Ron, I'd have to disagree with you. For F3A work with this class of motor you are looking at a 21x13 or there abouts. Adrian, if you have a 20 x 10, by all means try that and check the current draw. From my experience of comparing ground tethered runs and airborne max power figures, you would quite safely aim for 85 amps on the ground tethered at WOT. That will drop back in flight to under the 78 amp max quoted for the motor. If your Capiche comes in at 5.5 Kg with the flight pack then you should get close to unlimited vertical with the right prop. The 16x8 prop is way too small for proper aerobatics I'm afraid.

Adrian Smith 112/04/2020 17:36:36
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

Thought I would go for the easy wins today starting with the U/C legs. Two out of the three holes in the C/F legs surprisingly matched the original ones in the fuselage. I just needed to drill out a new hole that lined up with the original on the airframe.

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Standing on its own two legs doesn't seem out of place comparec to the original.

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I will keep the original wheels as they are of the light foam variety.

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Adrian Smith 112/04/2020 17:40:06
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

Next on to the missing tail wheel assembly. The original was set up using springs. Not my favourite I must say. I decided on the more positive rod driven method. I had to drill out the rudder to accommodate a small coupler to be Gorilla Glued in to accept the tailwheel driving rod. the C/F base was suitable screwed to the fuz.

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Adrian Smith 112/04/2020 17:42:00
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

In the meantime I did the small job in the motor box wall. I drilled out the original motor mount holes to accept some hard dowel plugs which were epoxied in.

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Adrian Smith 112/04/2020 17:44:16
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

Next I test fitted the wing servos (HS 5425) and it seems I don't have to add extension leads as there is enough wing protruding from the will to attach a y-lead from the RX.

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Adrian Smith 112/04/2020 17:49:54
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

I just had time to look at what I have in stock for the rudder and elevator pull/pull cables. I certainly have enough for the rudder, but I need some of at least 34" per elevator horn (doubled). Looks like I will have to untangle the mess that is my rudder spares box! The original cables I am ashamed to admit were vandalised when I dismantled the model some while back so are not really of any use. That's for another day.

Adrian Smith 114/04/2020 18:55:30
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

Time to bite the bullet and remove the worst covering film.

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While the wood is in reasonable condition there are signs of glow fuel ingress. Not sure whay I should use to try and reduce the effect. Give the time the airframe has sat in the work shop it feels dry to the touch, but it's there nevertheless. Any ideas?

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Adrian Smith 114/04/2020 19:07:28
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

I will have to by some Balsaloc as a matter of course to seal the loose seams that are not glow affected.

In the meantime I had a look at the rudder and servo positioning areas.

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I don't know what I was thinking of at the time, but in my wisdom I removed the elevator housing plate (on the left of the picture) and put in servo rails instead at the time of the original build (now removed). On the right of the picture I originally positioned the rudder servo on the cross spares in the fuz and removed the servo plate!! I think this was because I unnecessarily used a 1/3 scale Hitec servo which was really a sledgehammer to crack a nut. I decided to revert back to the original design as I am going back to standard size servos.

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Starting with the elevator pull/pull servo plate.

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I used 1/8" ply with extra servo screw support rails underneath glued in. I will be adding hard wood supports along the fuz sides to strengthen it all up.

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Next I added a rudder servo plate in the original location with 1/8" ply with servo screw supports underneath. I used 30 minute epoxy here. I ran out of time again as household decorating is calling me again ......

Adrian Smith 118/04/2020 22:45:21
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

The Balsaloc arrived today so first job is to thinly coat the bare wood and unstuck seams. Put aside to let it dry.

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In the meantime I soldered some bullet connectors to the motor to match those already on the ESC.

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Adrian Smith 118/04/2020 22:48:25
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

On to the recovering.

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First side started and before the heat gun treatment.

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Added some silver trim. I know its not a great masterpiece, but it's functional. On to the other side.

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Adrian Smith 118/04/2020 22:50:59
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2428 forum posts
1230 photos

I will finish off the underside another day so I just had time to epoxy the newly made servo plates and strengthening bearers for the elevator servo.

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john stones 118/04/2020 23:46:02
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11453 forum posts
1516 photos

Coming on well Adrian. yes

Ron Gray19/04/2020 07:15:41
1920 forum posts
799 photos

Yeah, nice work Adrian.

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