Pink and Purple Super Sixty

OK you win!

I spent over thirty years shining a seat with my trousers for Her Majesty. As a result I have a pension which does enable me to pay £60 for a kit of parts. It's just that I was brought up to be careful with money and old habits die hard.

Secondly I cannot bring myself to cover a Super 60 in film though I think I saw a few finished in this way in 1971! So I'm looking at polyester dress lining over doculam and using water-based Eze Dope, three "firsts" for me.

I've had two Super 60s in the past. I built the red one and bought the red and yellow one which was a genuine Penn Models Super 60. Penn Models used to supply them ready built and covered. Every one I've ever seen was four channel with a Cub Yellow fuselage and red wings. I crashed both of them on consecutive weekends through flying across the disc of the sun on landing approach. I've learned to turn before the sun since! I got an extra set of set of wings when I bought the Penn Models Super 60. The red one could be flown three-channel.

As for wings falling off, this is what happened to a Telemaster 40 I had. I was trying to sell it at the time, demonstrating its docile flying characteristics but they don't fly very well without the wings do they?

Finally for those who are interested, this is the lady concerned with Your Humble Servant and "Bertie," my entry in last year's Coupe Des Barons.

Earlier Kevin suggested using a THICK plywood template - that seems wrong to me as thin 1/32 or 1/16 birch ply is what I always use. So why use thicker? i reckon there is more chance of the scalpel or pencil etc sometimes pivoting on the lower surface and sometimes on the top surface so giving inaccuracies if using thick ply.

The hand grip and drawing pin helps a lot.

Anyway cutting ribs is a good way to start a newcomer and will illustrate just how much work goes into building a plane and therefore makes them a bit more careful when flying. You learn cutting techniques and its only on smallish bits of balsa.

DD, I have not used it yet, but I think polyester lining material does not need the doculam underneath. Tissue over film gives a high strength tissue covering. Polyester lining seems pretty tough on its own. I shall find out for real when I cover my current build with it.

David, could you not cover the model with Oratex white or cream and then spray it pink and purple with rattle cans. Might be quicker than polyester lining material which presumably is doped on?

It's an idea Piers. I wonder how much weight would be added.

Just at the moment I'm swinging back to using film. Practicality and speed of construction trumping airframe strength and tradition.