By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by CML

Gary's Brian Taylor P-47 build

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Mark Elen27/05/2020 23:17:47
527 forum posts
1022 photos

Hi Gary,

It’s good to see your build progressing. Your tail wheel looks great. Don’t worry about the ‘agricultural’ bit, the fact that it works is more important. You can finesse the looks later (or on the next one)

Keep up the good work

Cheers

Mark

Nick Somerville28/05/2020 11:36:27
105 forum posts
66 photos

I went with the fine piano wire in the end. Shaped a u after threading through lower binding hole and poked ends through the closed loop holes. Works a treat with no gluing required. Have epoxied the assembly in place now so no going back.c97ac247-9d46-462c-aea8-6f3d7a8a3847.jpeg

Gary Clark 128/05/2020 12:54:16
avatar
236 forum posts
131 photos

That looks like a very simple but effective solution Nick, I can see that being exactly what I do! I am also going to 3d print the case around the piano wire

Gary

Gary Clark 128/05/2020 22:15:25
avatar
236 forum posts
131 photos

Hi Guys,

Thank you Mark, when the final bits arrive I can tidy everything up then.

I mainly worked on the front end this afternoon and got the firewall sorted and engine mounted. I had to lose about 15mm from the bottom of the firewall to allow the muffler to clear it but still plenty left to attach to the fuselage. This is the second firewall as the first one had more holes in it than than the Bismark due to 2 shocking attempts at mounting the engine. After deciding these "lightning holes" were not required, I made a new one angry It was certainly amateur hour this afternoon....

20200528_174429.jpg

I will probably shorten the exhaust tubes and fit some silicone tube so that I can use the scale exhausts for exits. The choke is a bit awkward to get to so I reckon I will just attach a piece of piano wire and let that come out a small hole on the bottom of the cow and that will be hardly noticeable on the ground and invisible in the air. I also need to cut the hole for the fuel lines and need to think about where to refuel it from...

It is my birthday tomorrow so i might ask if i can have the whole day in the garage but i already know the answer...

Gary

Edited By Gary Clark 1 on 28/05/2020 22:15:44

Gary Clark 131/05/2020 13:52:15
avatar
236 forum posts
131 photos

Hi All,

I've been thinking about paint schemes and it's tough when there are so many good ones! I think I'm leaning towards one of the 56th Fighter groups razorback schemes and may copy Gabreski's details on it but not decided

b2b3936bcc36897954d6362db05d8cde.jpg

What are you scale guys using for paint nowadays? I've seen a lot of guys using emulation (latex paint in the US) as it's easy to get colours made up and easy enough to spray (also cheap which appeals to my Scottish nature). I've used Tamiya acrylic paint in the past but I'd need loads of those little tubs to cover the P-47. What's the general consensus on paint?

Gary

Nick Somerville31/05/2020 15:53:46
105 forum posts
66 photos

Garry, I have been looking too and there is a plethora of designs shown for P47’s here: **LINK**

I asked if they can do them at a specific scale as per the BT model and no problem. No doubt there are some uk businesses that can do the same, but haven’t got around to researching that yet.

Re paint I don’t have airbrush equipment and although I know there are many modellers that use 2 pack paint it’s something I want to avoid. I have used Guild materials Chroma paint (enamel) both spray and brush versions successfully and it is very fuel resistant. Colour range a bit basic but they do an olive drab colour and really everything else on most P47 schemes use a combination of Silver, Black, red, yellow and blue; so no issue there. They also go a long way so fair on the wallet. On the BT build threads on RCSB one of the posters mentions using Spectrum paints which is the same as Guild Chroma. He used silver as an undercoat so that he coupd rub back for weathering.

Nick Somerville31/05/2020 17:15:06
105 forum posts
66 photos

Rear bellyTailwheel deployedDoorA few pictures of progress from recent building. After gluing in the tailwheel assembly and arranging the carbon pushrods for elevator and tail retract I did some more planking. Just enough to shape the rear end and work on the tailwheel doors.

I steamed the curve for the bay doors from firm 1/8th balsa and when dry applied two layers of light glass cloth to the inside and taped it a little rear of the planked in bay area, with some thin plastic sheet in between. Left it overnight and all good. Just needs glassing on the outside and some hinges making up, though will do this after the fus is glassed.

Doors

Gary Clark 131/05/2020 19:08:46
avatar
236 forum posts
131 photos

Hi Nick,

Progress looks great and it is amazing how having the planking on makes it really feel like a P-47. Gear doors have come out well also, my plan is to make glass fibre doors since I haven't done that before and that will be my plan for the main gear doors as well.

I am planning on cutting my own decals as I bought a vinyl cutter a couple of years ago for exactly this reason. I want to make paint masks so that it doesn't hide the panel detail either but i was hoping to buy some water transfers/decals of all the little bits of writing and details around the aircraft. I will look into the Flair paint as that is certainly an option.

I have the tailwheel mechanism complete but still waiting on the correct piano wire for the tailwheel so that I can get it finished off and sort the steering for it. Need that done before putting the rest of the rear formers on so they don't get damaged.

I have the fuel tank in and mounted and there is still plenty of room for a throttle servo to go in beside it somewhere. I built a cradle for the tank to sit on then mounted a piece of ply on the opposed side of 1/4 balsa for a cable tie to attach to without tearing the balsa

20200531_174444.jpg

20200531_174420.jpg

Simple but solid way of doing it. Just need a bit of ply in to stop it being able to shift forward or back and it is done.

Very early days but I am enjoying this build.

Gary

Gary Clark 101/06/2020 23:19:08
avatar
236 forum posts
131 photos

Hi Guys,

It has been a weekend of pondering and lots of staring but few end results. I did manage to get the rudder pretty much sanded to shape

20200531_223540.jpg

I ended up with a rather impressive pile of shavings at the end of this but didn't want to continue because I need the very rear former and skin on the fuselage before I can shape the rudder to match that, I can't skin the fuselage until I get the tailwheel mounted, I can't mount the tailwheel because I am still waiting on piano wire for it.......breathe......I can't sheet the centre area because I need to mount the wing first and don't want to do anything further forward until all that is done.......wow

So I made a start on the other wing

20200601_213946.jpg

So you can see the dry fit of all my parts and the semi-completed wing I got with the parts. You can see the difference in the rear spar in the top wing compared to the plan and a few other minor bits here and there. The other major difference is that it has been skinned with 3/32 sheet instead of 1/16 as the plan suggests. The question now is what do i do? Copy the other wing and save myself a lot of work or cut a new set of ribs and make a new wing to match the plan? The previous builder is an excellent and very experienced builder so I don't doubt his changes are well thought, I just don't know what is best now.

What do you guys think? Advice required.

Gary

Danny Fenton02/06/2020 08:58:06
avatar
9635 forum posts
4451 photos

Hi Gary, lovely work.

My two "penneth": I think you should continue to follow the previous builders lead. It looks to me as though the rear spar has been extended? am I reading that right? It is possibly not necessary, plenty have flown without this area being strengthened, but perhaps a larger engine than normal was going to be used? It looks a sensible mod, and wont add much weight.

As for the thicker wing skins, this is common practice as the skins on Brian's designs allow no room for error, or even sanding! if you use the 3/32 you can then sand back to get things even. You really have to watch out for the starved horse look. I like to sand wing skins before they are glued to the wing, so virtually no sanding is then needed. But that relies on the underlying surface being spot on. The thicker wing skin will give you some wriggle room.

Just my thoughts, and please, I will not feel in the slightest bit offended what-ever you do.

Cheers

Danny

Nigel R02/06/2020 09:09:10
avatar
3938 forum posts
687 photos

I'd copy what you have, too. Save the work of re-doing it. Find some nice light 3/32. It'll be slightly more resistant to handling compared to 1/16, which won't be a bad thing on a 20cc powered airframe.

Gary Clark 102/06/2020 09:51:19
avatar
236 forum posts
131 photos

Hi Gents,

Thanks for that advice. I was not concerned about a starting again as I am in no rush with this project, I just want to try and get it right. You are correct danny, the biggest difference is the extended rear spar and thanks for the advice with regard to skinning.

Decision is made, I shall copy what I have and match the 2 wings.

Thanks guys

Gary

Nick Somerville05/06/2020 08:08:07
105 forum posts
66 photos

Garry, I am interested to know what your approach will be for the tail surface trim tabs. Do you plan to cut them away from the rudder and elevators and hinge them or will you just simulate the cut outs and add shroud and linkage details? If simulating The cut out, will you do this before or after glassing?

Gary Clark 106/06/2020 14:35:15
avatar
236 forum posts
131 photos

Hi Nick,

My plan will be to simulate then and just make a shround from either litho plate or 3d printed an covered in aluminium tape or something. Will make a mechanism look alike somehow to connect to the tab. My plan is to cut out after glassing since I hate trying to glass/sand small parts.

I am making progress with the left wing and it is almost ready to sheet the top side. Still need to make the flap and aileron as well as fitting the retract. Lots to do but getting there with it. I'd love to hinge the flaps like proper Fowler flaps but I feel it may be a lot of work for little gain.

Gary

Nick Somerville06/06/2020 15:58:11
105 forum posts
66 photos

Yes I have seen the work that goes into Fowler flaps. Even Brian’s plan shows the use of Robart hinges. With the geometry shown though for the pivot point the movement will be a close compromise to fully modelled Fowlers.

i agree re simulating the tabs. I finished off the hinge shrouds for rudder and elevator yesterday and glassed one side of the fin and tailplane. Will also do glassing of rudder and elevators before doing the tabs. I don't have a 3d printer so guess my shrouds will be made odds and ends from scrap drawer. On David Q’s build on RCSB, he cut the sides of the tabs and simulated the hinge line. Looked very neat.

Adrian Smith 106/06/2020 16:05:18
avatar
2470 forum posts
1273 photos

Like it, Gary yes

Gary Clark 109/06/2020 23:32:43
avatar
236 forum posts
131 photos

Thanks Adrian.

Slow progress on the P-47 recently as I have been trying to get some more done on the Moth Minor and try get her finished and ready to paint. I still need to get a cockpit in there but not really planned how yet......need to get that done.

Anyway, the left wing in almost at the same stage as the right one. Just need to fit servos and the retract and it is ready to be permenantly joined to the other. I should probably connect these two earlier but it is just easier to handle when it is individual wings.

I got the aileron and flaps made up on the jigs from the plan and they just need shaping now and start to make up the hinges for them.

20200609_224645.jpg

20200609_224706.jpg

This is the first time I have made control surfaces on jigs and was much easier than I thought so chuffed with that. I feel like this wing has taken forever but finally getting somewhere. I will feel better once everything is joined up and skinned then probably back to the fuselage for a bit so I can get the wing mounted.

Hope things are going well for you Nick.

Gary

Nick Somerville10/06/2020 08:12:31
105 forum posts
66 photos

That’s useful to see the pictures of the flap and aileron jigs Garry. I have been otherwise busy but made a tentative start on the right wing as my fuselage is as far complete as possible for now.

I have been making the necessary modifications to fit the Electron retracts and Robart offset struts (The drop links are quite large and snag the forward bearer and opening of rib). Once I am happy with all that I will start the wing in ernest.

I have been pondering a bit about the operation of the inner gear doors. In theory I believe these should open prior to gear down and then close again. I have yet to discover if this can be managed by the Electron controller/sequencer. Also as the retracts and sequencer will be on their own 2s Lipo I will need HV servo or servos to operate the inner doors. Anyone reading who has experience of this set up please do make your suggestions.

look forward to seeing your approach too Gary.

Trevor10/06/2020 08:36:53
avatar
443 forum posts
57 photos
Posted by Nick Somerville on 10/06/2020 08:12:31:

I have been pondering a bit about the operation of the inner gear doors. In theory I believe these should open prior to gear down and then close again.

Where did you read this? The P51 works like that and I was looking forward to doing the same on my P47 but the pics I have seen of them on the ground have the inner doors open. I'd much rather have them closed, if only to minimise the risk of handling damage.

Trevor

Nick Somerville10/06/2020 09:17:23
105 forum posts
66 photos

Trevor, I had seen a YouTube video with someone explaining h0w to set up a sequencer for P51 and P47 Inner door operation. However you are quite correct re the doors staying open as having looked at lots more videos of modellers gear set ups none do the double operation.

Gary, you mentioned the plan detail for the flap and aileron jigs. Can’t seem to see this or any notes on my plans?

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Support Our Partners
Slec
electricwingman 2017
CML
Sussex Model Centre
Advertise With Us
Sarik
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Has home isolation prompted you to start trad' building?
Q: The effects of Coronavirus

 Yes - for the first time
 Yes - but Ive bashed balsa before
 No - Ive existing projects on the bench
 No - Im strictly an ARTF person

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E!