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Gary's Brian Taylor P-47 build

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Gary Clark 119/07/2020 22:40:34
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268 forum posts
142 photos

That's a frustrating one for you nick. My retracts are pretty similar to BT ones so should hopefully work so I would love to have them. Please make sure you are positive they cant be modified first. I could trade you for a 3d printed cockpit if that works for you!

Gary

fly-navy20/07/2020 00:23:09
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423 forum posts
11 photos
Posted by Gary Clark 1 on 12/07/2020 13:21:42:

The 3D printed cockpit looks great! Do you want me to print you one nick? Easy to do once I scale it for myself anyway.

Gary

winkwink

Nick Somerville20/07/2020 08:27:30
134 forum posts
76 photos

That’s modelling for you! I quite enjoyed making them even though a non starter. I have sent you a pm Garry re posting the upper covers and surrounds.

Nick Somerville25/07/2020 12:51:54
134 forum posts
76 photos

Here is the mk2 version for the leg covers and retract service access panel. Due to the design of the Electron retracts there is annoyingly large aperture. If I choose to paint the model with a scheme with D-Day stripes then I better hope that there is a black stripe to disguise the gap.
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Nick Somerville13/08/2020 17:03:21
134 forum posts
76 photos

Haven’t posted for a while Garry as have been well and truly stuck on the aileron hingeing, horn and servo linkage. The tolerances to get it all to work smoothly are properly frustrating and just when I think I have sorted it something else rears it’s ugly head. Today I have decided that the best course of action is to A/ cut out all of the hinges, fill the mess with balsa scrap, resand and redo with Robart pin hinges. B/ remove the horn and relocate protruding from the bottom of the aileron and exit the linkage rod from the lower skin as per a usual model arrangement. BT purists raise your arms in horror but if I am ever going to complete the wings this is the only way I am going to do it.

Nick Somerville18/08/2020 19:43:15
134 forum posts
76 photos

Finally skinned the bottom of one wing. Going with Robart hinges for the ailerons was a good decisionf655e74b-1e49-4e01-976a-fd46132598b7.jpeg. So on to the other side and then just tips, servo hatch covers and leading edges left to do. I think I will glass each wing prior to join them together as will be much easier to manoeuvre them. The inner gear door servo will be accessible from the top of the wing along with the gear lipo and sequencer unit at the root where it won’t be seen once mounted to the fuselage.

Gary Clark 122/08/2020 10:37:49
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268 forum posts
142 photos

Hi Nick,

Cant argue with those results, the wing looks great. When it comes to joining vs glassing, I like to do everything up to actually glueing them together. I join them to make sure everything is tight and tidy but take them apart and glass therefore everything SHOULD just join back together easily. Once joined I put a fairly wide, but withing the width of the fuse, on the top and bottom over the join for strength.

I've been away from home for the last 2 weeks and it's been over a month since I've done anything with any of my projects. Getting pretty desperate to get back into it now.

Gary

Nick Somerville22/08/2020 16:36:04
134 forum posts
76 photos

Cheers Garry, good advice as ever. Both wings are buttoned up now and leading edges and tips are glued in place so some fun later withe the final shaping. It will be good to get them glassed to protect them from hangar rash.

Thinking ahead a bit I have been wondering about where to place the dual receiver packs. They need to be readily accessible for removal when charging so was wondering about behind the fuel tank. You can get to them easily from there when the wings are removed above and back a a little from the wing dowel fixing plate against F3. I can mount my Powersafe receiver on the other side of F3 so easy short cable runs. All just thinking aloud really as it will ultimately depend on where the model balances.

Nick Somerville06/09/2020 13:28:19
134 forum posts
76 photos

Hi Garry, you have been quiet, hope you are finding time to get back to your ‘Jug’. I am feeling like an imposter posting in the thread you started.
Both wings now almost complete. Glassed, filler primed and cut back ready for grey primer. Just adding a bit of detail prior to joining them. Air intake on leading edge prepared and machine gun tubes in place ready to accept guns later. I have the landing light and navigation lights still to add too. Looking forward to working on the belly pan and wing fillets.

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Gary Clark 107/09/2020 22:06:36
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268 forum posts
142 photos

Hi All,

 

Nick's post has finally given me the boot up the proverbial and got back into the workshop. First issue, dealing with this......

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That's what happens when I dont get into the workshop to build, everything ends up piled on my bench. It is probably the main reason I've not been building because I know this needs fixed first.

With the cleanup done, I left the moth minor on the bench to finish the anti spin strakes as this is the last major mod needing done before painting. This part is metal sheeted and quite obviously a bolt on to the full size after construction so my plan is to cover in either litho or flite metal from mick reeves but that can be decided once the are glued in and the joints filled.

My plan is to get a bit more done on the moth minor and get her ready for paint before getting the jug back up. This shouldn't take long as it's the wing is pretty much ready to cover.

Nick, great progress and please feel free to post as much on her as you like! It is great to see your build and keeps this thread going as I've been disappointingly slow with progress lately. Keep up the great work. Do you have a paint scheme in mind?

Gary

Edited By Gary Clark 1 on 07/09/2020 22:07:03

Nick Somerville08/09/2020 08:41:36
134 forum posts
76 photos

Good to hear Garry. Re the paint scheme I admit to being somewhat terrified about this. I have mostly used auto spray cans in the past but that was for sailplanes so fuel proofing not an issue. I did borrow a compressor and car paint spray gun for a very large 4.75m span DFS Reiher I built from a Charlesworth plan, as it was the only way I could get the correct colour made up. I managed ok but I didn’t enjoy all the cleaning up process. I am mustering the resolve to spray my P47 but want to keep to a simple scheme so Pengie ii as flown by Squadron Leader Gladych as modeled by David Q is my current thinking.

I am going to order Klass Kote from Phil at Fighter Aces and have been in touch with Flightline Graphics regarding paint masks and rub on transfers for the smaller stuff. Frighteningly pricey though and a long waiting list. As for spraying I haven’t decided, but currently a toss up between a HVLP spray gun or disposable Preval as they seem well recommended . Anyone with advice/experience on this please post.

Following DavidQ’s technique I moulded the wingtip nav light covers by heating a bit of a spare windshield from my Stampe and folding in around the light area before cutting the tip away. Worked a treat but a hot air gun would have made things easier compared to the kitchen hob! 8bcf1c7c-1863-4470-8e44-e7ae5f072e88.jpeg

Edited By Nick Somerville on 08/09/2020 08:44:23

Gary Clark 108/09/2020 21:13:49
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268 forum posts
142 photos

Hi Nick,

I am very similar to you when it comes to painting, mainly spray cans or film covering. I've got a compressor and have used it for the first time priming my moth minor and I have to say it makes everything quicker and cheaper (minus the compressor cost obviously). One tin of primer lasts ages compared to the cans required. I use it outside on calm days to prevent mess as everything in the garage would be covered unless protected.

I am planning on cutting my own paint masks with my vinyl cutter but require the transfers for the smaller stuff also and haven't looked too much into that yet.

I have been 3d printing some scale parts for an A-10 my friend is building and that has reminded me to do a cockpit for you and I. I'll try and measure up the plans to see what size we need and try and get that done soon as you will need it soon.

Great job with the lights, I'm in the process of building a vac form box for a couple of projects. A mini one for things like this and a larger one for canopy. No experience in this area but nothing to lose.

I've got a good bit more done on the Moth so closer to getting this Jug in the air......hopefully sometime before the sun expands and consumes the earth in about 6 billion years but I wouldnt bet on it.

Gary

Nick Somerville09/09/2020 08:28:25
134 forum posts
76 photos

Garry, I noted the finish of the primer on your Moth and was much impressed. Perhaps I should look out for some secondhand spray equipment and take the plunge. I have a stone shed/store that with some clearing and rearranging I could set up a spray area. It has power and is small enough that, despite an uninsulated roof, in winter I could raise the temperature sufficiently for spraying.

That would be great re the printed cockpit parts, though no need to rush on my behalf, as since we are moving into the darker/colder season I am just going to bimble along with the rest of the build. The waiting time on the rub on decals from Flightline is about 4 months btw!

Ron Gray09/09/2020 08:56:10
2312 forum posts
998 photos

Preval is definitely worth a go. Despite having a compressor and spray guns / airbrushes I decided to try one out spraying the fuel proofing on my Lavochkin LA-7 and it worked much better than I thought it would, so I can see why Klass Kote suggest them for their paints.

Nick Somerville09/09/2020 22:07:18
134 forum posts
76 photos

What type/make of primer did you use on the Moth, Garry and did you need to thin it down?

Gary Clark 109/09/2020 22:55:54
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268 forum posts
142 photos

Thanks nick, I was pleased with the outcome on the moth. I used the stuff below. I saw that Danny Fenton uses it and he has excellent results. I figured it's the paint and not purely skill.....I was wrong, he just makes it look easy! This stuff is great though, very thick and has great build if required but can be thinned down to whatever you need to use it for ie brushing, spraying ect. Just needs standard celulose thinners screenshot_20200909-224547_samsung internet.jpg

Gary Clark 112/09/2020 13:00:06
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268 forum posts
142 photos

Hi All,

I thought I'd post this for you guys to see my solution to an issue i had with the Moth Minor undercarriage. I know it isn't the P-47 but thought i'd share anyway as an idea for anyone that has a design like this. The Moth Minor design is for a U/C block for each strut that is attached to the outermost rib (1/8 ply) of the centre section on each side and to the spruce main spars. I made mine from layered 3/4" ply and drilled a hole through the middle for the strut but after the oleos arrived, they were not the same thickness through the whole length so I 3D printed some parts to fill the gap

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The issue was how to stop the oleo from turning as i didn't want is fixed within the block incase it need straightened or removed at some point. The solution i came up with was soldering a nut to a piece of brass plate then carving a channel in the block so that it fits in where the block is attached to the rib. The brass plate stops the nut from being able to rotate in the wood and the plate also pushed back against the ply rib so i can put a bolt through and hold the oleo in place.

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I will drill a hole though the rib and this should mean i can remove the oleo or straighten it with ease whenever the outer section of the wing is off (at 110" this will only be on when it's ready to fly!)

If anyone can see an issue or has a better solution, please let me know. Always helpful to share these little things.

Gary

Nick Somerville13/09/2020 18:04:51
134 forum posts
76 photos

With the wings complete have started to add some detail to the fuselage prior to glassing. I do still have the belly pan and fillets to do but am waiting to replenish epoxy supplies before the big join, hence just enjoying some litho plate work. First up the intercooler exit doors. I have fixed these as open and certainly not entertaining open/close with servo control as I have seen on YouTube. Some of the American modellers build BIG and have everything on a servo! The Brian Taylor Jug is a more modest beast and I do try to build light where possible.

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Gary Clark 113/09/2020 20:00:26
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268 forum posts
142 photos

Looks very tidy Nick. I always add details like that after glassing but have seen lots of people do it before like you have. I always do it after so glassing is easier, what is the benefit of doing it before? Is it just a preference thing or is there a benefit to it?

Gary

Nick Somerville13/09/2020 21:26:36
134 forum posts
76 photos

Good question Garry, my instinct would be to do thus detailing after glassing since as you say laying the cloth would be easier done first. However, David on his RCSB build log reckoned there was merit in doing the exhaust shutters and intercooler exit doors before glassing. I may live to regret following his advice but we will see.

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