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Gary's Brian Taylor P-47 build

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Gary Clark 113/09/2020 22:34:44
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288 forum posts
153 photos

I noticed that on David's build as well and that's why I asked the question. The scale detailing part is something I'm not very experienced in so hopefully one of the more experienced guys might jump in and give us some pros and cons?

Gary

Nick Somerville14/09/2020 08:29:09
149 forum posts
87 photos

I suppose that it will be better to have any small areas of filler around such detail under the glass. As this is my first powered true scale model built from a plan I am just feeling/fumbling my way along.

Danny Fenton14/09/2020 09:07:56
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9755 forum posts
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My thoughts if that helps?

I alter anything to do with the outline and underlying structure, including filling undulations, etc in the wood, using a very light weight filler, I like Red Devil One-Time, very light and quick drying. But not strong.

Once the shape and surface is perfect, I glass. This gives me a hard surface to detail, and sanding is usually easier as the detail AND the surrounding surface is the same (similar) hardness.

Not to mention glassing around/over a prominent detail makes life difficult when you need to get the glassing job done quickly, the resin waits for no one.

Just my thoughts.

Cheers

Danny

Gary Clark 114/09/2020 10:32:24
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288 forum posts
153 photos

I hadn't realised this is your first scale from a plan Nick, you're doing a great job then!

Thanks Danny, I was hoping you would add your thoughts. So to check, you like to glass a complete fuse and the at scale details like this after? I do similar to you wrt light filler before glassing and then I use car filter after since it dries hard and strong but is obviously heavier however I SHOULDN'T need as much.

My thinking was almost purely based on the ease of glassing, I just like to make my life as easy as possible but I can see the benefits of detailing before the glass is on.

Gary

Nick Somerville14/09/2020 10:53:03
149 forum posts
87 photos

Good advice there Danny and you certainly have developed some excellent glassing techniques so who am I to argue. What about tailplane and fin? Do you attach and fillet these in before glassing the fuselage?

Garry I built a 1/4 scale Kirby Kite, Lo 100, DFS Reiher from plans and a scratch built 1/4 scale Bergfalke mk 4 back in the 80’s and 90’s so although new to power, and the devilish retract set ups, do have some building experience. No laser cut parts back then sadly as the Sarik parts pack really do err on a kit. But thanks anyway for your encouragement.

Danny Fenton14/09/2020 14:07:45
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9755 forum posts
4556 photos

Thanks Nick, glad you got something from the vids
That's a difficult question Nick, no real hard and fast rule. I like to glass bits before I add them, but in some cases, fairings, final shaping etc cause issues, as you have surmised.

I did a Spitfire with all the tail bits in place. My recent Apache with them separate. Glassing after assembly makes the assembly all a bit unwieldy in the workshop, and vulnerable until glassed. But either way works.

I had to saw a tailplane off one model as I had the incidence wrong, so just remember nothing cannot be undone.

Cheers

Danny

Gary Clark 114/09/2020 14:46:35
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288 forum posts
153 photos

I had to saw a tailplane off one model as I had the incidence wrong, so just remember nothing cannot be undone.

Cheers

Danny

Been here before as well Danny. One of my good mates was visiting a friend who had attached his tail plane to a chipmunk but wasn't happy with the incidence. He couldn't decide if he wanted to bite the bullet and change it or not but when he went to the toilet my mate just cut it off before he returned! Decision made! A bit extreme when it's someone else's build but he knew he would never be happy with the way it was so just hurried the decision up a bit!

Danny Fenton14/09/2020 16:10:31
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9755 forum posts
4556 photos

Funnily enough mine too was a Chipmunk!!!

I think I would have gone ape if somebody had done it to my model though. Won the British Nats with it though so was the right decision LOL

Cheers

Danny

Nick Somerville14/09/2020 16:52:48
149 forum posts
87 photos

Oh dear chaps, now you are scaring me with all the Incidence chatter. I have always built as per plan and glued/ fitted (where designed remove able) Wings and tailplanes but never accurately measured incidences. Blind faith in the plans and a fair eye and so far never had a model that showed poor flying characteristics. Points taken though and I shall see what I can measure on this one.

Danny Fenton14/09/2020 17:07:25
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9755 forum posts
4556 photos

Nah don't worry Nick, I made a hash of the tail-plane incidence, something must have moved while I was waiting for the epoxy to dry. I have since got a laser level and am much more careful now. I am sure you will be fine

However saying that a Robart incidence gauge is well worth having to check stuff like this.

Cheers

Danny

Gary Clark 114/09/2020 23:16:59
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288 forum posts
153 photos

Haha he wasn't too impressed either Danny but went on to have a lovely aircraft so I suppose was grateful.....eventually.

Don't get too caught up in the incidence bits Nick, generally if you are accurately following the plan and it looks right when it's on, it's close enough. Measuring incidence is something that seems much harder to do than it actually is and I've only ever had to do minor adjustments that are probably unnoticeable with the naked eye. If it looks right....

Gary

James Stanton 322/09/2020 18:03:11
7 forum posts

Gary,

I just received my BT P-47 short kit today. This will be my winter project here in the states. I have a NGH35gt I hope to use and was wondering if you have installed the Evo26gt yet in yours. I was wonder how it is going to work out because the NGH37gt is a very simular engine in design. I also have a EME-35 engine but it is over 1" to long. I guess I could move the firewall back an inch but it looks like the NGH35gt will be an easier install

Gary Clark 122/09/2020 19:52:59
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288 forum posts
153 photos

Hi James,

Good choice going for the BT P-47, great and proven design.

I have fitted my engine and it fits in fine. My silencer required the lower section of the firewall to be cut but definitely no issues with size of the engine. If anything, I would like to have extended the shaft a bit to allow a scale engine to go in front of the carb but I'll just have to fit it around.

It's a fairly straight forward build with more complicated areas but nothing too tasking. Keep us up to date with your progress.

Gary

James Stanton 323/09/2020 14:06:35
7 forum posts

Thanks for the feed back on your Evo26gt fit. It looks like the NHG35gt will be a better choice then the EME-35 so I will go that way. Do you have any pics of your build. I have been looking at Treavor's build and I am no way as good a builder as he is. I am a little worried about the way the ailerons and flaps are built. Any and all help is greatly appriciated.

I plan to getting started next month once I am finished with a 1/4 scale cub build.

Nick Somerville23/09/2020 16:57:58
149 forum posts
87 photos

James I too was a little confused at first regards the flaps and ailerons, but Garry pointed me in the right direction earlier in this build thread and actually once I sorted the simple jig they came together very nicely. The leading edges use substantial amounts of balsa of which much is shaved away. A few tips from my experience of the build so far: Be sure to check your laser cut parts against the plan. In my Sarik pack there were a just few parts that didn't match or were missing. Not enough to be a nuisance but as every part is clearly drawn it is builds confidence to cross reference. The flap hinging with Robart pin hinges works great but the scale type aileron hinges shown, apart from being fiddly to make are a devil to accurately fit. I had to rip mine out ultimately after hours of frustrating fettling and resorted to Robart pin hinges which seem to maintain the same rotational geometry when placed carefully. The fuselage is a joy to build, with only a few tricky areas around the rear of the cockpit and of course the multiple compound curves of the razorback need a good eye when sanding/shaping. I have used Electron retracts. A lovely product at a price but they don't fit the bearers as per the plan. You will see my notes on them earlier in the thread.

With a generous application of epoxy and micro balloons I have finally joined the wings and added a 10cms wide woven glass bandage. Today was a big one in that it was the first time I trial fitted the wing to the fuselage. Happily the fit was near perfect and holes have been marked out for the locating dowels. I am just waiting on some T brackets for the wing fixing bolts and once these have been installed I can get on and assemble/fix the belly pan. That just leaves the wing fillets and then all the construction will be complete. It will be a good milestone as I will be able to glass cloth the fuselage and then all parts will be ready for a final prep and then primer.dc334c71-7b60-4e89-99b3-cbcd213d78d5.jpeg

James Stanton 323/09/2020 18:59:24
7 forum posts

Nick,

thanks for the helpful info. I am kinda new to the build from plans thing and after reading and looking and everything on this Brian Taylor P-47 I was a little worried on weather I had what it takes to build something like this. I think I will get start on it as soon as I can and work my way thru it.

Jim S.

Gary Clark 123/09/2020 19:57:56
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288 forum posts
153 photos

Hi Jim,

There should be photos through the thread already but if you want a photo of anything specifically then let me know.

Great progress nick and a great feeling when the wing is finally fitted and it really feels like you are on the home straight. Then you glass it and start the detailing.......not as near completion as you think!!

Gary

Nick Somerville23/09/2020 20:08:10
149 forum posts
87 photos

“..not as near completion as you think!!”

You are not wrong there Gary, but much to enjoy and learn and it will be ready when it’s ready.

Gary Clark 123/09/2020 21:01:25
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288 forum posts
153 photos

That's exactly my attitude Nick, if you rush it then you don't enjoy it and do things just to get it done rather than doing it properly. That's why I always have a couple of projects on the go so that I can have a break from each and that stops me running out of enthusiasm.

Gary

Nick Somerville24/09/2020 17:16:13
149 forum posts
87 photos

Topside of wing showing fitted locating dowels and rear bolt guides. Two access hatches for door Servos and wiring exit point. Central bay for Sequencer, operating main legs, gear doors and tail retract servo. The small lipo adjacent only powers the main legs whilst gear doors and tailwheel retract servo are all powered from the receiver circuit. That adds up to 6 connections each time the wing is mounted, so ideally I need some form of block to hold all the males and all the females as a single unit each that can be pushed together.8eca93f5-1789-4c3d-8161-25af8724ce7e.jpeg

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