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McG 696925/05/2020 08:54:25
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3251 forum posts
1233 photos

Great job, Dwain. yes

I wouldn't even dare to touch your model, let alone working on it...

Looking forward to your covering...

Cheers

Chris

Dwain Dibley.25/05/2020 14:34:57
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

Thanks Paul, will do. Re the dope tho, the frame is frighteningly fragile, hence the Mylar.

Chris, I have to order materials, so covering won't be for a while, but there is more construction, including a mind blowingly tedious cowl to fabricate. crying An interesting change to those giant slabs of balsa we are used to EH??laugh

D.D.

Dwain Dibley.25/05/2020 14:38:55
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

The Bits I have left................

D.D.

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Even cuterer with some wheels on. wink

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Dwain Dibley.25/05/2020 21:46:03
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

Ok Chaps, I did this earlier, but got side tracked looking at all kinds of stuff re free flight........ it's like Alice and the Rabbit hole, the deeper you go etc.......

Any way I made the cowl up, and the ingenious turn buckle arrangement, so it doesn't have to be glued on. Make sure to get it right so it's upright when locked in.

The tedious part was cutting and gluing all the blisters on the plastic cowl part.

Looks the part when done.

D.D,

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Left a nice neat lip to slip over the fuz.

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Dwain Dibley.28/05/2020 00:30:46
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

So........... I have made the first tentative moves at covering, I have started with the tail feathers. The reason being is, that I decided to separate the rudder from the fin, so it can be used for trimming. I had to therefore, insert another 1/16th stringer along the back of the fin.......I did not fancy trying to cut one in half....to take the hinges. I am taking the advice to make the hinges from tin, cut from a curry carry out tray, so they stay put in flight.

Adding side and down thrust is, say the instructions, achieved by inserting a small wedge behind the cowl.......Now, the cowl is a damned tight fit due to the ingenious twist on doobry, so that will be interesting.......unless the amounts are indeed very tiny, to achieve trimmed flight....Hence the rudder..?

I can make the fit looser by adding a shim I suppose......We will see.

I think I have decided to go with tissue alone, I think that the mylar would be more of an advantage on an out door model, 20" plus, I think someone did suggest that earlier. i want to try it on something, as the results look amazing.

D.D.

Rudder wetted, and pinned on slats, to dry flat.

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Fin awaiting moisture. the bottom 30mm will be fixed to the stern post, I left it attached as it's so small. Everything is so flipping small....LOL

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Jonathan M28/05/2020 07:34:20
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730 forum posts
289 photos

Excellent smallness Dwain! laugh

paul d28/05/2020 08:47:27
184 forum posts
12 photos

Looking Good Dwain.Are you going to use the kit prop?

Dwain Dibley.28/05/2020 21:10:21
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

Thanks Johnathon, yes....It is good fun....

Paul................will you stop changing my mind....... I was going to just use the kit prop, but now i'm thinking

should I ??? LOL Bear in mind I have to use the plastic bearing that fits the cowl.....or do I ??? Arrrrrrghhhh!!

D.D.

Dwain Dibley.28/05/2020 23:12:50
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

So this is the propeller, A Guillow's D6.

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This is what I got today.

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paul d29/05/2020 11:26:45
184 forum posts
12 photos

Quite like eze dope, no smell and water dilution and clean up by it's not as easy to use as real dope, it's very easy to get puddles.

here's a couple of props I've made just to mess with you mind!!

The balsa one is frankly awfull, far to thick and I made it out of to soft material, it's replacement ( for my half size Wakefield) is made from 8 laminations of lite ply, far thinner and efficient but obviously heavier ( just removing the nose weight sorts that though!)

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Edited By paul d on 29/05/2020 11:27:34

Dwain Dibley.30/05/2020 16:02:42
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

Very nice Paul.

Well !! Here goes with the Ezedope Chaps, Photos show the water shrinking phase. The covering went well, I had forgotten how fiddly it was, but as time went on it all got easier, and in the end, a couple of hours saw the model covered. Stuck down with a glue stick, the first time I've tried this but according to 99% of the vids I've watched, it's the way to go.

Notice I saved the rice trays for making the hinges. laugh

The model is now drying after a coat of 30/70 Ezedope /water as per the instructions.

Gonna go look after pressing the post button.. Ooerrr......face 7

D.D.

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McG 696930/05/2020 16:53:24
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3251 forum posts
1233 photos

Very neat job, Dwain.

One question, please > arent' those - good looking - ducks going to badly influence the roll rate of your cutie? ... angel

Cheers

Chris

Dwain Dibley.30/05/2020 17:50:22
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

Thanks Chris........The ducks are trained to to keep the wing level in the event of heavy turbulence. If their wing drops they open their own wings for extra lift. wink

D.D.

Dwain Dibley.30/05/2020 17:59:48
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

If you guys remember, I said that some of the stringers were made from cheese, well...What I feared has happened. The shrinking has pulled them in a little.

Some of them were unusable, as they literally crumbled to the touch. Shame really as it lets a good kit down.

I can live with it, but next time I will buy a sheet of laser cut 1/16th stringers from VMC, that way I will be able to guarantee consistency. I used the harder wood on the bottom to ensure not getting a banana fuselage, that seems to have worked out OK.

D.D.

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Dwain Dibley.30/05/2020 19:14:17
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

This just came.

D.D.

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Jonathan M30/05/2020 21:11:53
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730 forum posts
289 photos

Sorry about the dicky stringers Dwain. Scalpel some 1/32 or 1/20 wide lengths off 1/16 sheet and use a smidge of thin CA to 'double' the cheese from the inside - will obviously involve stripping and re-covering the bottom tissue.

I almost never wet tissue anymore to shrink it - just waving the fuse or over a kettle for 30-60 secs gives an even, less fierce shrink.

Yay to the Don Ross book - for lubing the rubber use silicone lubricant from a tube rather than messy caster oil.

Dwain Dibley.30/05/2020 21:12:02
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

Some teeny weeny likkle hinges. I have tissued over the side windows, I may just do the front screen in acrylic sheet.

Then its just final assembly, the wheel spats and Decals.

D.D.

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Dwain Dibley.30/05/2020 21:24:32
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

Hi Jonathon, it's a bit annoying but hey ho. That is the top of the fuz so, is as you say, an easy fix. I may well have a go tomorrow, as from past experience if you mess too much you end up in a bigger mess.

You would have thought the kit producers would "vet" the contents, or make sure the wood was of a consistent quality. I know the kits are brilliant for the price though, so I'm not really having a go at Dumas.

I already have my eye on this model to trim train on, once it's built of course. A sparrow Hawk.

D.D.

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Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 30/05/2020 21:26:08

Jonathan M30/05/2020 21:35:37
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730 forum posts
289 photos

The Sparrowhawk is a lovely little kit, all the VMC wood and laser-cutting is spot on! Helped my kid build one as his first model about three years ago, flies extremely well - even took it to a SAM 1066 meeting on Salisbury Plain and played with the big boys!

Dwain Dibley.30/05/2020 22:10:22
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1505 forum posts
1487 photos

I made a good choice then EH ?

I was stationed at RAF Upavon, Salisbury plain ish, Netheravon was the glider school. Random info, but there you are.. LOL

D.D.

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