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Walnut Scale Mr Mulligan

Rubber rocks Man !!

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George P.01/06/2020 09:56:14
68 forum posts
23 photos

Wow, Jonathan, that whole Braiding thing is something else! Very informative. Glad I only have to get my head around how to lube and wind a loop of Tan Supersport (or so I think it is)laugh

Dwain Dibley.01/06/2020 13:20:41
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

The model does not have a nose block, like the sparrowhawk, the whole cowl twists on and off.

The plastic prop "bearing" just sits against the cowl. I will post a pic later, I am at work at the moment.

Thanks for the comments George, and what a beaut the Cessna is. Cessna is one of my favourite planes, I just built the Brian Taylor 120. the blog is on here.

I have started to read the book, but not got far....only a coupla pages in....LOL

Gonna order my Sparrow tonight......smile d

D.D.

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 01/06/2020 13:23:44

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 01/06/2020 13:25:39

Dwain Dibley.01/06/2020 19:56:22
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

As promised the pics of my cowl, as you can see the prop bearing (if that's the right name) just sits against the front, only kept there by the tension on the elastic.

D.D.

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George P.01/06/2020 21:24:12
68 forum posts
23 photos

Hi Dwain,

Just a thought, if you reversed the black prop bearing then it looks like it would be a good fit into the cowl ( you could glue this in position) and the prop would run on the pointy dome shaped bit ?

Dwain Dibley.01/06/2020 21:33:12
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

Ordered a Sparrowhawk, and could not resist the VMC Pilot , as this one looks like it can take a bit more of a bashing indoors. Solid slabs of balsa wink

They both have nose blocks, so that's a bonus for the trimming. YAY.

Can't wait now, i'm exited LOL

D.D.

Dwain Dibley.01/06/2020 21:42:41
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

Hi George, the black part is bevelled (concave) on the prop side for a good fit and sits in the cowl on the Convex side. The cowl is very very thin on the front and gives to take the black part.

I will take a closer look and check the book, it maybe as you suggest, and I have it the wrong way round.

D.D.

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 01/06/2020 21:45:49

john stones 101/06/2020 21:52:29
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11546 forum posts
1517 photos

That's a stonking prop. surprise

Dwain Dibley.01/06/2020 21:59:46
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

blush Thanks John.

D.D.

Jonathan M01/06/2020 22:25:53
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737 forum posts
290 photos

Button is back to front. As the model is bound to need a good deal of nose-weight, might as well beef up the inside of the front cowling with balsa, then bore out to accept the parallel part of the button behind the flange for a snug fit. Also, unless the wire is long enough so that the hook protrudes properly out the back of the bayonet-former, I'd open up that hole a decent amount.

Re balance, things will be a lot easier (as with flying R/C) if you go for a slightly forward CG - obviously balance as per plan initially and then add weight during test-glides. Light lead fishing-weights pressed into blue-tak or clay will be useful, maybe form an opening at the base of the rear cowling former so you can load the lead in well forward.

Don't know how you'd start to add side- and down-thrust... given the bayonet system of attaching the cowl.

Maybe fit one of Derek Knight's adjustable nose-buttons?  third photo from the bottom

Edited By Jonathan M on 01/06/2020 22:38:45

Dwain Dibley.01/06/2020 23:52:25
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

Right guys, I have the solution, thank both of you for your input, I had got it backwards. DOH So I don't need to cut the prop shaft like I did either. Once fitted up the cowl has to be taken off each time to wind the motor.

I have fitted a 1/32 ply disc on the front with a hole drilled to take the button, the printed radial engine will cover the disc.

I have ordered some more prop shafts as the one I made was a bit pony, had to cut the original off.......0.99p for 3 was a no brainer.

I had mentioned the thrust issues earlier Jonathan, my idea is to cut the plastic away top and side so I can slip a wedge of balsa in. I can also relieve the turnbuckle affair slightly.

Anyway thanks to you pair of eagle eyed beauties, the day has been saved. yesyes

D.D.

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Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 02/06/2020 00:11:57

Bob Cotsford02/06/2020 10:26:43
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8597 forum posts
483 photos

I've always thought Mr Mulligan was a beautifully brutish design and your model has captured thuggish attitude that in spades. Talk of 1/16"sq and twisted rubber motors takes me back 60 years to building the KK Flying Scale series models and my attempts at Coupe d'Hiver and Wakefield class rubber power models. I'm not sure I'd like to be working with these fragile structures now though. More power to your elbow Dwain it's looking good, shame about the poor material choice provided for the strips!

Dwain Dibley.02/06/2020 12:26:49
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

Thanks Bob, yes I am really getting into this side of it, having done the same as you in my youth, bar the comps.

I agree the Mr mulligan and similar are well thuggish, I had a 50 cc version and a 50 cc Gilmore racer too, which I recently sold.

The kit was let down by the dire choice of strip, however the laser cut parts were great. So the next Dumas kit will be supplemented with some laser cut strip from VMC or the like.

D.D.

Bob Cotsford02/06/2020 15:58:26
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8597 forum posts
483 photos

Oh I never flew competitions Dwain, it was kids stuff building from the free plans in Aeromodeller then when the planets aligned and one flew well it was a case of watching it float off across the housing estate bordering the parkcrying. First chance I got to obtain a glow motor (Cox .049) it was all control line and no looking back!

Dwain Dibley.02/06/2020 20:54:23
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

I built one control line model, I was about 15, me and my brother flew it in a field by our house, many good flights till the engine fell out and disappeared into some trees. We found it, and I still have it..... A PAW 1.5 diesel.

Those were the days....................

Anyway, I have fitted the engine in the DGA, plus fitted the struts, and the fairings under the wings.

Just waiting now for the delivery from VMC and the prop will be back on.

D.D.

The disc for the prop button came from this box, I suspect we all have one. LOL

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Strutting His stuff.

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Dwain Dibley.04/06/2020 18:19:26
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

Some more rubber delight.

D.D.

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Dwain Dibley.04/06/2020 22:37:41
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

Couldn't resist, so got stuck in.....

I chose the Pilot as the construction method is different and will progress more quickly.

These two models are basically freeflight trainers, intended to teach me the basics of trimming a freeflight model.

So far it's great, well designed, with really good instructions and plan. I say plan, only the wing needs to be pinned down, the rest is kinda push fit and glue. OK, so it's designed for a real beginner, but a more experienced modeller will still have loads of fun with it.

I also got some other bits from VMC, some lube, some aluminium tubes 3 mm and 5 mm OD.

I intend to use the 3 mm for the rubber motor rear pegs, so a stooge can be used more easily, and I saw a Joshuawfinn video where he uses the bigger tube with the rubber on over the smaller "peg" when he braids the rubber motor.

I also got extra prop shafts and did the thing right this time, as you can see the shaft projects beyond the bayonet cowl fixing, and keeps the button in when the motor runs down.

I have to say Chaps I'm having more fun with this rubber malarkey, than I've had in ages. laugh

D.D.

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Dwain Dibley.06/06/2020 16:37:35
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos

Some progress on the VMC Pilot, it's very well designed and goes together quickly as you can imagine, I have used the glue included in the kit this time, apart from joining the wing leading and trailing edges, when pinned on the plan.

The only other deviation, but one suggested in the kit, is I covered the fuz top and bottom with tissue, and not the paper "decals" included.This saves a bit of weight. Also i sanded the tail parts down to 1.4 mm, again to save weight as suggested in the book of words. They say 1.2 but I got bored. blush

I also made a stooge, LOL. I made my own design, I don't know if it's right or even if there is a right way, but it does the job of holding the model while you wind the motor. Can be clamped or screwed down. I will make an attachment for the back of my van at some point.

To this end I have made the motor peg from 3 mm OD ally tube.

D.D.

Stooge.

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Wing drying in the back ground.

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Tail feathers in place, not glued yet.

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McG 696906/06/2020 17:06:32
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3252 forum posts
1236 photos

... you seem to be seriously 'hooked', Dwain.

Great to see that motivation & energy... cool

Cheers & stay clear

Chris

Jonathan M06/06/2020 17:25:20
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737 forum posts
290 photos

Sexy stooge Dwain! Mine was a rough ten-minute job from MDF offcuts years ago (funny how a temporary solution becomes a permanent one!) but it has a longer base which gives more options for clamping down. I later bored a hole near the rear so I could also peg it down with a tent-peg straight onto the grass.

Dwain Dibley.06/06/2020 17:55:09
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1508 forum posts
1487 photos
Posted by McG 6969 on 06/06/2020 17:06:32:

... you seem to be seriously 'hooked', Dwain.

Chris

LMAO I see what you did there Chris........laugh

I made mine out of a bit of ply from under the bench Jonathon........Cutout is for bigger models in the future, but no doubt it will "evolve"...LOL

Wings are covered , just drying as we speak.

D.D.

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