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Which Glue

Advice on the best glue

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Michael Crawforth26/05/2020 21:04:49
16 forum posts

Hello All.

Hope you are all staying safe. I am wanting so guidance on the glues that you guys would recommend these days because last time i did model building i was using cascamite glue.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Wingman26/05/2020 21:28:39
1148 forum posts
405 photos

Well Michael there's cyanoacrylate thin medium and thick, epoxy slow and fast, resin, aliphatic, superphatic,acrylic, polyurethane, UHU POR, spray-on, JB Weld, evostic, copydex and probably many others I don't know about - those are just the ones on my glue shelf and they all have their uses cheekysmiley

Barrie Lever26/05/2020 21:29:13
243 forum posts
50 photos


I would say that the big thing with adhesives in modern model flying is that there is an adhesive for just about every job.

What do you intend bonding together?



Michael Crawforth26/05/2020 21:35:23
16 forum posts

I am looking at building the 2013 Mass build Shorts Tucano

Richard Clark 226/05/2020 21:56:05
292 forum posts
Posted by Michael Crawforth on 26/05/2020 21:04:49:

Hello All.

Hope you are all staying safe. I am wanting so guidance on the glues that you guys would recommend these days because last time i did model building i was using cascamite glue.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I don't know if it's still made but Cascamite is an excellent wood glue. Far better than all this PVA stuff.

The only epoxy I trust (and the only one I use) is the slow setting (12-24 hours depending on temperature) 'Araldite'.

I use Deluxe Materials Aliphatic for most model plane stuff except for real high stressed areas, where I use the Araldite above.

Barrie Lever26/05/2020 22:31:15
243 forum posts
50 photos
Posted by Michael Crawforth on 26/05/2020 21:35:23:

I am looking at building the 2013 Mass build Shorts Tucano

Hello Michael

I have just looked at the Tucano and it seems like a nice model and all built up construction.

I like cyano for rapid and strong assembly of balsa structures, although I know of many experienced modellers including Richard using aliphatic adhesives.

I use thin cyano with a nice fresh dispensing tube to frame up a structure, most adhesives are stronger than the wood but the thin aliphatic and cyano's impregnate the joint and turn it into a mini composite structure.

Like Richard said the old 24 hour Araldite is a very underrated product, it will always to do a good job, particularly on joints such as engine firewalls and undercarriage blocks.

The 5 minute epoxies tend to be brittle in comparison with their long cure cousins.

I have never much liked PVA adhesive for building, before the cyano's became readily available I preferred balsa cement using the pre cemented technique.

I hope this helps a little.



Doc Marten26/05/2020 22:49:51
583 forum posts
8 photos

My glue armoury holds:

Gorilla white- General balsa work

Gorilla brown- Tailplanes, stressed areas that need sanding and gap filling

Gorilla cyano- Anywhere I need a quick join.

5 min epoxy- Areas prone to fuel.

30min epoxy- High stress areas, wing joint.

Deluxe Aliphatic- thin, tight fitting balsa that needs gluing whilst in place such as ribs.

Ray Wood 427/05/2020 07:05:00
219 forum posts
44 photos

Hi Micheal,

I'd go with Doc's suggestions on Gorilla products + Balsa Cement for joining sheets.

Plus I find the Poundland cyano, and epoxy great value 👍✔,

In my experience because it costs an arm & leg doesn't make it any better !

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 4 on 27/05/2020 07:06:32

Edited By Ray Wood 4 on 27/05/2020 07:07:09

Former Member27/05/2020 08:24:59

[This posting has been removed]

Scott Edwards 227/05/2020 08:39:00
216 forum posts
97 photos

Cyano - Fast, brittle, expensive, fills small gaps, hard to sand.

PVA - (Titebond) Slow, cheap, doesn't fill gaps, sands nicely.

Epoxy - Reasonably quick, expensive, strong, fills gaps, hard to sand.

PU - Slow, cheapish, expands to fill gaps, can be messy, sands very well.

All of the above work on balsa and ply, and everyone has their preference. Try them all and you will soon find yours 👍

Nigel R27/05/2020 09:03:53
3926 forum posts
685 photos

For ply or hardwood to another ply or hardwood, epoxy. This is usually the high stress stuff - firewalls, landing gear blocks, etc.

Large area joints like ply doublers on balsa sides, contact adhesive (spread out wafer thin with a credit card).

Most everything else, thin cyano. Porous woods like balsa and poplar liteply soak it up like a sponge, as Barrie says, it almost forms a composite where it has soaked in. A good fit on any joint is needed, cyano is not gap filling.

ken anderson.27/05/2020 09:15:31
8686 forum posts
808 photos

white PVA,poundshop 5 min epoxy,wilcos cyano ……. job's a goodin at cheap price.....ok for small sports type models.

ken dept.

DaveyP27/05/2020 09:37:14
232 forum posts
47 photos

Hi Michael, as another one who recently returned to modelling after a 45yr break I've found the following works for me, I build traditional Balsa/Ply models.

Titebond aliphatic wood glue for almost ALL balsa/ply bonding, Cyano for tack joints or if you're in a hurry and Araldite as already mentioned for high stress areas like firewalls and landing blocks nerd

Just my 2p worth


Ray Wood 427/05/2020 10:23:02
219 forum posts
44 photos

Hi Jason,

I haven't seen fish glue in Poundland ! But will have a look for it 😄

Granted I've only been building for 50 years but never had either the expensive or the cheap stuff fail.

Regards Ray

Engine Doctor27/05/2020 11:29:48
2512 forum posts
39 photos

Is fish glue waterproof smiley?

Bob Cotsford27/05/2020 11:56:27
8594 forum posts
483 photos

I suspect that most of the adhesives we use on wooden models offer far stronger bonds than we actually need. I can't remember any glue joints fail other than on open structure stick'n'tissue type cross members, and I suspect that was down to a failure to pre-cement the end grains. Epoxy glues in particular are more likely to delaminate a ply structure than for the glue line to fail no matter how cheap the epoxy. Let's face it, if you want the ultimate joint it needs a mechanical fixing.

Epoxy mouldings may be another matter, I guess the jet guys like Hysol for more than it's ability to empty your wallet.

Michael Crawforth28/05/2020 19:40:16
16 forum posts

Thank you all very much, everyones suggestions have been a huge help, I am sure i will be asking more questions on other subjects soon

Bruce Collinson28/05/2020 20:38:28
537 forum posts

You could do a lot worse than surf Deluxe Materials’ website. They not only have an adhesive for virtually any application, there are (gratifyingly) short and sweet video tutorials on applications and use. The products are widely available.

Anything Pacer/Zap has been very satisfactory for me in a wide range of uses, besides model planes, but isn’t cheap.

oh and Deluxe; it’s a British company. Looks like Huawei will not get the 5G gig after all.


Martin McIntosh28/05/2020 22:06:14
3424 forum posts
1215 photos

I build a LOT of models from small electrics to large warbirds and use thin Zap for almost everything including ply firewalls initially, medium to add a bit extra to joints, thick and Titebond for some of the wing skinning and Titebond for laminating, RCM glue for canopies. Epoxy? No longer really needed on models anymore other than things like control snakes and hatch catches. I certainly also use more specialised stuff like POR and an adhesive primer for carbon plus foam safe occasionally where needed.

I would hate to have to go back to balsa cement, even if they still make it.

Ray Wood 429/05/2020 06:46:05
219 forum posts
44 photos

img_20200507_164437.jpgOMG, balsa cement of is the corner stone of aeromodelling, how could we live/build without it 😄👍😎

Regards Rayimg_20200516_153451.jpg

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