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cymaz18/06/2020 05:19:24
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9285 forum posts
1200 photos

If you have any, leave to soak in glow fuel for a day or two. If you can remove all the plastic bits,(can’t remember if the mds has a plastic throttle arm). GENTLE heat to free the oily residue

 

Or have a look at jkAAOSw1fJeyqir">this

Edited By cymaz on 18/06/2020 05:22:08

leccyflyer18/06/2020 06:31:11
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1518 forum posts
327 photos

I think that Doc's point was that the assertion that 35mhz has been superceded by 2.4ghz radios isn't the experience of some people . For example a fair number of the regular flyers that I fly with continue to use 35mhz, or a combination of 35mhz and 2.4ghz radios. These flyers just have their unique frequencies, rather than there being a pegboard, so there is no difference in practice.

As the flying is predominantly electric powered I'd obviously advocated the benefits of 2.4ghz in virtually completely eliminating those annoying intermittent instances of glitching that would plague some models. However, when you have a number of models that are working perfectly fine, with existing gear then carrying on using that ought not be an issue for anyone.

Doc Marten18/06/2020 10:24:21
636 forum posts
7 photos

You understood my point perfectly Leccy.

It was the "Superseded" assertion........ for electric motor users there's a very good case but less so with IC. When someone is returning I read encouragement to fork out for new gear too often. Try with what you've got and replace it if you want or 'need' to later on.

Is there an update on your post Rogeo?

Doc Marten18/06/2020 10:33:31
636 forum posts
7 photos
Posted by Nigel R on 15/06/2020 09:49:24

Why bring your recommendation of Overlander and Eneloops up? It's irrelevant to my point.

My point was, China was not relevant. All anyone on this thread recommended was updating the old, 35MHz gear to a more recent 2.4GHz set.

PM me if you wish me to clarify fully.

Keith Miles 218/06/2020 12:26:23
422 forum posts
6 photos

Rogeo1983,

I would echo the recommendation that you seek out a club or clubs. At some point you will need to fly somewhere and better that it is from an organised and safe location especially these days. Most clubs should be happy to welcome you or just give advice without requiring any immediate commitment.

Also, nobody has yet mentioned that new legislation is now in place requiring registration of pilots and models and you will find this information on the BMFA website as well as a list of BMFA affiliated clubs.

I appreciate your preference to use what you already have, but as others have inferred, it needs, at the very least, to be safe and reliable even if not the latest technology.

And as for teaching others to fly, things are much better, and safer, now with “buddy” capable transmitters which many clubs have along with a training aircraft and instructors and I’m sure that it has drastically reduced the number of risks, crashes and associated frustrations (and expense!) of the methods of the past as well as speeding up the learning process!

Rogeo198319/06/2020 00:13:04
27 forum posts
18 photos

img_1289.jpgimg_1237.jpgHi all,

So an update. I have charged the batteries for both tranceivers and the one pack of batteries for the receives, and they all work, so I have ordered new batteries for all today.

I have not even looked at the MDS 40 engine, it is still in the model, which will require some surgery to remove. I am first working on the SC 40. The model is a yamamoto 1600. Purchased new in 1998. The model will require some work to cover the wing, new bands, pushrods fixed for controls, and the throttle cable replaced.

The engine is free now, and surprisingly, turns very free, with good compression. the bearings were really good, very smooth.

The issue is the carb. It is completely frozen. I have soaked it now for 4 days in nitro, cleaned, heated, but nothing will make it turn. If I can buy a replacement carb I will use it, but there are a few engines for sale online, I might just buy one and use mine for parts.

Anyone got any ideas regarding the carb?

In relation to the club, I am based in Ireland, and I have made contact with the local club. I will be meeting up with them once the lockdown is over.

 

the other model is a basic trainer, with wooden box fuselage, and covered with the shrink plastic (cant remember the name Im afraid, its been a while!)

But I had started to make this into a cub replica, so I may use its engine in the main fibreglass model initially, and work on that model over the winter.

Thanks again for all the help, I feel like I am reliving my youth again with this project!

 

I just need to get back and learn to fly again!

cheers

img_1287.jpgimg_1239.jpg

Edited By Rogeo1983 on 19/06/2020 00:20:56

Keith Miles 219/06/2020 01:58:42
422 forum posts
6 photos

Rogeo1983,

Perhaps you could post a picture of the carb? Will it not dismantle? Does it have a screw which holds the throttle barrel in place?

As you may know, O.S. and Saito are about the only manufacturers left producing glo engines and Saito are all 4-strokes, I believe. The trend now, sadly (in my view, anyway) is electric or petrol. A new O.S. 46. 2-stroke will cost you about £120!

There will be second hand SC stuff, and maybe some spares available but tracking down what you want might be an issue requiring time and effort. As you say, it might be worth buying a complete used engine, assuming it isn’t knackered or unless the carb is okay! I believe that SC, ASP and Magnum were pretty much the same engine produced in different Chinese factories! “Just Engines” in Shaftesbury might be able to help as they were once ASP importers.

About ten years ago I, like you, had been out of the hobby for a long time with old gear that I was reluctant to ditch but first, I had to replace tired and unreliable engines for new ones and after about 12 months I decided to replace the radio gear as well. You can probably pick up a modern entry level but much more capable 2.4 GHz computerised Tx and Rx combo, new, for about £100 or less and standard servos for about £8 upwards, each. Electronics has never been so cheap for what you get.

Just something to think about unless, for you, the tinkering is part of the interest, and that’s perfectly fine.

Rogeo198319/06/2020 09:39:47
27 forum posts
18 photos

Hi Keith,

Yes tinkering and building is really what i find interesting. Myself and my son are in the garage daily trying to fix the engine. I think I will just buy a second hand engine, and use mine for parts. Its a cheap alternative.

 

The carb is held in by a screw, this has been removed, in fact I have stripped it completely, but the inner barrel will not budge.

I have just spoken to the local club, and yes I will be only one of a few using 35mhz equipment, but they still have the peg board, so it shouldnt be a problem.

Im just starting to trace parts now, so hopefully I can get it built again soon.

Cheers

Edit:

In relation to my past experience, I was registered, trained and checked out to fly in the main club here. My model was registered with its own tail numbers which were required to be attached with stickers on the fuselage and the underside of the wings. 

I was pretty competent, not in any aerobatics, but just basic safe flying in the circuit.

I will be getting one of the trainers to checkout, test and fly my model first, as is a requirement in the club. My 6 channel tx has a buddy cable, and they still have a simiar tx they can use to buddy to mine and train me. The instructor I spoke to was very excited to be able to get out is old gear to use with me!

Edited By Rogeo1983 on 19/06/2020 09:52:54

Rogeo198321/06/2020 14:08:41
27 forum posts
18 photos

Hi, quick update.

i have just bought a second hand engine to replace this one, I can use the parts from mine if I need spares.

i bought all the batteries, and misc parts I need to get the model fixed up. I just need to buy some covering film to tidy up the wings, so once they all arrive I’ll get this model going.

in the mean time, I have just ordered a cable and software for a sim, so at least I can get my hand back to flying again, and hopefully my son will learn to fly.

i have another model which is a really basic trainer, it will need a bit of work to finish off, but I will build this for my son if he is still interested in a few weeks!

i can’t thank you all enough for the help, back when I was flying these, it was only very small clubs that would be able to help, but now here, having the huge and varied experience is amazing to have, so thank you all again for your help.

Keith Miles 221/06/2020 19:31:04
422 forum posts
6 photos

Glad to hear that you sourced an engine. I did see one or two on E-bay!

Not sure what the situation is with your local club at the moment but ours has had to suspend training temporarily due to the Coronavirus restrictions and pilots flying being reduced from 6 at a time to just 2 to maintain “social distancing”! We’re also only permitted to handle our own equipment not others (oo-er Missus!). Not sure if disposable gloves are allowed! The clubhouse, kitchen, workshop and toilets are currently locked up as are the model benches!

At least we can still fly!

Rogeo198321/06/2020 23:18:45
27 forum posts
18 photos

Hi Keith,

yes the local club club is also closed down, however they have me penciled in when they get back. I am hoping to get set up with a simulator to fly through my tx, so hopefully I’ll get some level of practice in.

in the mean time, I’ll get the models set up, and test run on the ground, and keep flying on the sim!

one of the instructors said he will take my model and test it for me, so it should be ready for my over controlling fingers!

Frank Skilbeck22/06/2020 07:59:54
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4752 forum posts
104 photos

Re the carb, if you know anybody with an ultrasonic cleaner then that would be worth a go. I am surprised though that is so locked up that soaking and heating won't free it off.

Rogeo198329/06/2020 23:25:57
27 forum posts
18 photos

Hi all,

I had the carb put through a cleaner, heated it and it freed up. But as soon as it cooled it seized again. Ill use the new engine, and keep that one for parts.

The other engine freed up nicely, and is rebuilt. New batteries arrived, wiring sorted, so now I just need to get some materials to finish the control rods, and a bit of covering, and Ill be ready to test.

So far so good, Ill post some pics when its done!

Thanks again for all the help.

Regards

Keith Miles 230/06/2020 15:38:51
422 forum posts
6 photos
Posted by Rogeo1983 on 29/06/2020 23:25:57

I had the carb put through a cleaner, heated it and it freed up. But as soon as it cooled it seized again. Ill use the new engine, and keep that one for parts.

That is very, very strange!

I gather, from your previous posts, that you used this engine in the past and that, presumably, it was previously okay? Carb barrels are not usually such close tolerance items and I’ve never heard of barrel expansion or shrinking manifolds! Ruling out corrosion, the only other thing I can think of is ovality in the manifold or barrel but unless you know somebody with the relevant measuring equipment, it might have to remain a mystery!

Would love to know, though!

Good luck with the rest of your project(s)!

Rogeo198313/07/2020 12:41:45
27 forum posts
18 photos

Hi all,

Quick update.

Finally parts ordered, i should have Nitro, solarfilm, a fuel pump, bands, balsa for the ailerons and wing tips, and i received yesterday the sc 40 engine. So im good to go. the local flying club is still under a restriction, but i have an instructor who is going to test fly the model for me, and get it set up.

So the 1st model will be ready for test flight this week. Its a yamamoto 1600, sc40 35mhz sanwa. I just need to install the engine and fuel tank, cover a small part of the wing, and refix the control surfaces using proper hinges. the mylar ones just kept failing off over time.

the second model is a very basic trainer that i was rebuilding into a cub type replica. That needs to be covered totally, new ailerons made and covered, the mds 40 engine fitted, fuel tank, and the servos installed. It is also flown with a sanwa vanguard 4 channel 35mhz tranceiver.

I have just finished the tailplane in a cub style, and the tailwheel has been ordered for delivery tomorrow.

I will update with some more pictures when i get it done.

The cable for the simulator arrived, but it was the wrong type, it was too small, so i am still hunting for that.

Cheers

Rogeo198313/07/2020 12:46:40
27 forum posts
18 photos

here are some photos

img_1571.jpgimg_1572.jpgimg_1573.jpg

cymaz13/07/2020 17:21:23
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9285 forum posts
1200 photos

Best of luck with the flying. yesvamp

Rogeo198314/07/2020 23:33:34
27 forum posts
18 photos

So a bit of work today, All tested except the engine. I still need to replace the hinges with new ones, thats for tomorrow.

So tomorrow i eill be starting the engine for the first time in 20 years. I have new fuel and a new glow plug. I am having trouble finding the initial settings of the high speed needle and the low speed screw. Does anyone have any idea of them? Its for an SC 40.

Here is the pics of the model.

Cheers

img_1578.jpgimg_1579.jpg

Keith Miles 215/07/2020 02:07:10
422 forum posts
6 photos

If your SC40 carb is, as I believe it is, similar to my Irvines, i.e. a non air bleed type with the main needle one side of the carb and idle screw on the opposite side, this is the initial set up procedure that I use and assuming that the throttle arm is correctly positioned. It’s an old tip that I picked up years ago and it has worked for me!

Take a length of fuel tube and attach it to the fuel inlet at the carb.

Open the main needle valve fully.

(Disconnecting the control link from the throttle arm is preferable so that you can easily move and hold it with your finger. Easy if using a clevis. Less easy if you have wire and a z-bend in which case you would need to release at the servo end. Depending on your set up, it might be best here to lift off the output arm from the servo for easier repositioning as I suspect that you have no “travel adjust” facility, more of which later!

Take a 1mm drill or piece of piano wire and use it as a feeler gauge inside the carb manifold in order to set the throttle barrel slightly open. Obviously you need to keep the “gauge” in the centre of the barrel opening!

With the barrel gently clamping the drill/wire, blow into the fuel tube and listen for the “hiss” inside the manifold. (I find it easiest, and more accurate, to stick one end of another piece of fuel tube into the manifold and the other end in my ear as a stethoscope!).

What you are listening, and aiming, for is just a very slight hiss at this setting. Turn the idle screw out to increase the airflow and in to decrease it.

This will give you a fairly accurate initial setting for idle.

Next, turn the main needle in fully and then back it off by the usual 2 - 2 1/2 turns for initial starting.

That done, you can then re-connect the throttle link, if removed, readjusting for full travel as required to achieve full and closed throttle, especially the latter!

A “travel adjust” on a modern Transmitter sure makes setting up throttles much easier! No offence intended!

As for the main needle setting, this will only be determined after starting at the above setting. You will then turn the needle in (which leans the mixture) gradually until the engine note gradually picks up and just  “peaks” into a steady two stroke. If you then raise the nose to about 45 degrees and the engine slows, the engine is too lean and you need to turn the needle out slightly to richen the mixture. 

I assume that you will be fitting a new glo plug. If nothing else it will be one thing to eliminate as a cause for any running problems, bearing in mind the age of the engine!

I hope that all of this helps and that I’m not insulting your intelligence!

Keep us posted!

 

 

Edited By Keith Miles 2 on 15/07/2020 02:51:54

Denis Watkins15/07/2020 07:49:28
4544 forum posts
123 photos

Very accurate rendition Keith, to retune a motor with unknown needle settings.

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