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Windshield fixing to film covering

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Martin McIntosh15/07/2020 17:10:04
3472 forum posts
1216 photos

I need to fit a windshield to my new Super Aeromaster which is covered with HK polyester film. R/C modellers` glue sticks but does not stay put. Any bright ideas out there?

kc15/07/2020 17:20:09
6587 forum posts
173 photos

Tabs formed on the windshield and inserted into the balsa perhaps? But I prefer tiny screws to hold the glazing and they could look a bit scale if they are small enough.

leccyflyer15/07/2020 17:51:43
1518 forum posts
327 photos

I also prefer tiny screws to fix canopies - Mick Reeves does some lovely little self tappers, If it;s a balsa structure it's worth hardening up the screwholes with some CA.

Denis Watkins15/07/2020 17:56:00
4544 forum posts
123 photos

Tiny screws as above advice


Peter Miller15/07/2020 18:22:04
11222 forum posts
1321 photos
10 articles

I like small screwsand a frame made from Litho plate (Available on EBAY

destiny eng 004.jpg

kevin b15/07/2020 19:07:39
1855 forum posts
146 photos

Shoe Goop ?

Trevor15/07/2020 19:20:28
453 forum posts
57 photos

I do like the look of the screw approach but I’ve always managed with the R/C Modeller’s glue, assisted as kc says by tabs on the bottom of the windshield into slotS in the balsa. Strips of vinyl trim used to frame the windshield also serve to cover up the slots

Tim A15/07/2020 21:41:17
234 forum posts
13 photos

I have used JB Weld to glue windscreens on. Mask off above and below the area, fill with the weld, smooth off with a wetted finger. Leave for a couple of hours, remove masking tape and allow to set for 24 hours. Leaves a nice smooth fillet which you can paint.

Martin McIntosh15/07/2020 22:27:02
3472 forum posts
1216 photos

Thanks for the replies. I have some of those small screws but they are out because it has to be a simple acetate sheet curved and folded at each side, although I may be able to fold some tabs and screw those to hardened balsa. It will be basically the same as the Ohmen ones.

I actually posted the above before I saw the pics. Something to go on now.

Edited By Martin McIntosh on 15/07/2020 22:30:00

ken anderson.16/07/2020 07:21:46
8713 forum posts
808 photos

martin,i've mentioned a few times on the forum that I use clear silicone(aquarium grade)...a small tube costs around a your screen/cockpit...tape in place and leave overnight.....have a look at an aquarium and the joints are butted together and they hold a fair amount of water...……...strong as anything...give it a try--you wont be disappointed...

ken silicone dept.

Martin McIntosh16/07/2020 09:50:09
3472 forum posts
1216 photos

Thanks Ken, may try that as I already have some if it has not gone off. I was trying to avoid gluing directly to the film since it seems to repel almost anything.

Nigel R16/07/2020 10:47:59
3987 forum posts
722 photos

With canopy glue, and I guess it would work with RTV too, I make a line of pinholes through the film, right along the glue line. Allows a small amount of glue to reach the wood beneath.

Solarfilm used to do a liquid something or other that etched or keyed the film surface. Maybe there's an alternate chemical or paint product that would do the same, you could wipe along the glue line with cotton bud or similar?

edit: Prymol was the stuff

Edited By Nigel R on 16/07/2020 10:48:29

Ron Gray16/07/2020 11:07:51
2235 forum posts
978 photos

I you want to stick it down, and you have some!, try Gorilla Glue (white) it works really well and dries clear. But like a lot of other guys, I like using small socket headed screws 


Edited By Ron Gray on 16/07/2020 11:10:02

Martin McIntosh16/07/2020 11:15:22
3472 forum posts
1216 photos

Thanks Nigel but I once tried so called canopy glue. On turning the model upside down the whole thing fell off, and that was acetate to balsa.

The problem with polyester film is that you cannot etch the surface to paint or glue, it is completely different to Solarfilm.

I think that I may go with the tab idea; also JB Weld may be good but when I bought some extreme temperature stuff it came as a one pack which you are supposed to stir and use the whole lot in one go. I shall try and get the right type now since I have other uses for it.

Ronaldo16/07/2020 11:43:37
266 forum posts
21 photos

I've used canopy glue with success, but first I slightly rough up inside the canopy edge and the film with fine sandpaper. I find the secret is to leave it secured with tape for 48 hours to go off. Sometimes I also use cut down pins as a backup, first making pin holes with a 1mm drill bit and pushing the pins in with a little cyano at difficult points such as corners which look more likely to lift up in the airflow, or anywhere there isn't a good surface area to hold sufficient canopy glue. The small pin heads then look like rivets which look pretty good and scalish.

Martin McIntosh16/07/2020 17:28:00
3472 forum posts
1216 photos

Hi, been at it for 60 years and did all that bar the pins. It must have been a lousy brand which I bought, in fact it was water soluble. When I wiped off the excess it fell off! For ordinary canopies I now use RCM glue, but this windshield is just point contact with the covering. I have done them before but to a painted surface.

Martin McIntosh19/07/2020 12:02:36
3472 forum posts
1216 photos

aeromaster 067.jpg

Settled for this in the end, the original idea being to push the tabs into slots but they had a habit of breaking so I used screws instead. Went over it inside and out with foam safe ca after first spraying with ca primer. I can add paint later.

Thanks for all your inputs; on the face of it this looks a simple job but they have given me headaches in the past.

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