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EarlyBird17/11/2020 06:26:10
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646 forum posts
460 photos

More progress on the tail.

The part to fill the gap glued to the fin.

img_20201116_154620779.jpg

and test fit which shows that a bit of trimming is needed.

img_20201116_154811333.jpg

Which is obvious when the tailplane is in place.

img_20201116_154937761.jpg

That looks better.

img_20201116_155116859.jpg

Cheers beer

Steve

EarlyBird18/11/2020 15:12:52
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646 forum posts
460 photos

smileysmileysmiley

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smiley

Cheers beer

Steve

Bob Bertram18/11/2020 15:56:55
352 forum posts
36 photos

Very nice Steve, your work is much better than mine. My turtle deck is not very smooth with indentations between one or two formers and have been contemplating cutting it off and replacing it or maybe call it the filler queen!!!

Fun Flyer18/11/2020 16:07:40
366 forum posts
59 photos

The built up tail really looks the part. Well worth the extra work.

Peter Miller18/11/2020 18:06:24
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11780 forum posts
1416 photos
10 articles

That is looking excellent

EarlyBird19/11/2020 08:35:02
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Thanks everyone.

This is my sixth build and trust me I have learned so much, my first build had loads of filler which I decided was not good so my aim is to minimise the filler and ideally use none.

What next?

This is the stage when I start thinking about what to build next frown I am tempted by the Swizzle Stick for a quick build and winter hack. I like sticks yes.

But back to the front I think.

Cowl and battery hatch to sort out.

Cheers beer

Steve

Peter Miller19/11/2020 08:42:22
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11780 forum posts
1416 photos
10 articles

Swizzle Stick is very quick and easy to build. Not sure about fitting a battery and motor. but I m sure that it can be done.

EarlyBird23/11/2020 10:42:59
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Swizzle Stick and The Ohmen ordered as Sarik have the 10% off black Friday deal at the moment.

OCD? thinking

After a lot of deliberation I decided to construct the cowl the same as I did on the Ballerina.

Light ply plate cut and test fitted.

img_20201122_101700564.jpg

Now I have to make the battery hatch, before the cowl so that the cowl can be shaped to the hatch.

Cheers beer

Steve

EarlyBird23/11/2020 20:13:02
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Battery hatch frame work.

img_20201123_195756086_hdr.jpg

Sheeting tomorrow.

Cheers beer

Steve

EarlyBird25/11/2020 20:09:13
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Battery hatch half sheeted,

img_20201125_194847860.jpg

Cheers beer

Steve

EarlyBird26/11/2020 09:44:40
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Second side being bent into shape and left to dry.

img_20201126_093739802_hdr.jpg

Cheers beer

Steve

EarlyBird26/11/2020 20:38:01
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Dried and ready to cut out the battery hatch.

img_20201126_195009391_hdr.jpg

Cheers beer

Steve

EarlyBird27/11/2020 10:32:44
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Hatch cut out and trimmed.

img_20201127_100414119_hdr.jpg

I have not decided on how to hinge the hatch. I am thinking of using covering film the same as on the ailerons and elevator.

Plate scribed to the shape of the hatch.

img_20201127_101317130_hdr.jpg

and from the other side

img_20201127_101339069_hdr.jpg

Next cut the plate to fit and then build the cowl on to it.

Cheers beer

Steve

EarlyBird29/11/2020 11:47:58
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Ply plate cut roughly to size. Keyhole slots cut in the bottom. Screw holes drilled in the top.

Fixed in place ready for the cowl to be built.

img_20201129_113655742_hdr.jpg

Cheers beer

Steve

EarlyBird04/12/2020 12:15:56
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646 forum posts
460 photos

Just a note of caution to anyone considering following my design changes.

Building the cowl is proving to be a challenge as I am now on my third attempt, which does not look promising.

The first issue is that using the keyhole fixing I have to allow 6mm movement vertically down. The second is caused by the size of the battery box/engine mount leaves very little balsa on the sides. Third is caused by the motor being a larger diameter than the IC shaft .

I could change the shape of the cowl and accept that it will not be scale, The nose ring would be a larger diameter.

A 3D printer or a fibre glass cowl would provide a solution but both are beyond my skill level.

Hmm thinking what to do?

Cheers beer

Steve

Bob Bertram04/12/2020 12:23:34
352 forum posts
36 photos

Steve, what about using very strong magnets and a couple of alignment pins instead of the keyhole arrangement? I'm sure Peter will be along soon to provide an answer.

Fun Flyer04/12/2020 12:43:51
366 forum posts
59 photos

I used two magnets at the top and two dowels at the bottom for alignment and it hasn't fallen off yet. Not that its had much flying recently. sad

Peter Miller04/12/2020 13:29:11
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11780 forum posts
1416 photos
10 articles

THis is the joy of building. You can change things to suit your own ideas or what works for you, Especially when converting from ic to electric.

Personally I don't like or trust magnets but that is a personal thing. I am a "nut and bilt or latch man myself. i.e mechanical connections.

Geoff S04/12/2020 14:26:31
4046 forum posts
68 photos

It looks as though you have access to the back of the firewall when the battery hatch is removed. What I've done a couple of times is to make the back of the cowl and drill through it and the firewall (before shaping it accurately) and then fitting dowels to locate it and with a through bolt (accessed from the battery box behind the firewall) into a captive nut in the cowl back to hold it. Then build a cowl on the part you've already made. In my case it was to fit a glassfibre cowl but there's no reason it wouldn't work witha built-up one.

There's also the more drastic step of not bothering to make the cowl removeable. Once it's all connected up, provided you can access the esc/motor connections, there will hopefully be no need to get at the motor itself. Brushless motors are generally very reliable and don't need tweaking like a glow engine sometimes does, so you can seal it up with a degree of confidence. The only part of an electric drive train that's likely to fail is the esc and you can make that accessible.

Geoff

Fun Flyer04/12/2020 15:20:06
366 forum posts
59 photos

I would always use nuts & bolts or screws on an IC model but magnets seem to work on electrics.
I use magnet to magnet, i.e. one in the firewall mating with one in the cowl secured with lots of epoxy.

Its well known that anything that's designed not to be removable will need to be removed sooner rather than later!

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