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Replacement Cowl

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Doug L24/08/2020 22:06:48
4 forum posts
2 photos

Hello,

Would anyone know a shop/site where I could get a replica 60 size P47 cowl?

My H9 P47 is still in great condition except for the cowl and it would be a shame to de-commission it. I was looking for a new cowl to do a refurb with electric retracts and a new engine.

The is the original H9 cowl, but would be happy with a 60 size replica I could paint.

Thanks for your help.

cowl.jpg

Denis Watkins25/08/2020 08:48:43
4650 forum posts
131 photos

Vortex vacs here

**LINK**

Shaun Walsh25/08/2020 09:04:19
443 forum posts
50 photos

Is this what you are looking for?

**LINK**

Doug L25/08/2020 20:53:34
4 forum posts
2 photos

Thanks for the linksthumbs up...

re the H9 cowl, i did see that but i think its bigger than the 60 size cowl.

Cheers.

Phil B25/08/2020 21:42:21
avatar
231 forum posts
243 photos

Do you have the original? It is usually possible to replicate or renovate fg cowls.

Cuban826/08/2020 10:53:07
3062 forum posts
1 photos

Like Doug's, my H9 P47 cowl is knackered although the rest of the airframe is still nice and tidy after many years of flying - one of the best and most comfortable to fly scale models I've had in fact. I'm sure I contacted Vortex about their P47 cowl and they sent me dimensions which IIRC were a bit too small. Haven't had any luck elsewhere. Might have to refurb the original.

BTW Doug, I've had a pair of HK servoless retracts in my P47 for ages that replaced the hopeless mechanical ones supplied - been very reliable.

Edited By Cuban8 on 26/08/2020 10:57:02

Stuphedd26/08/2020 11:03:12
727 forum posts
376 photos

When ever I get afresh plane with a preformed cowl I tend , dependant upon shape, to make a cast out of cheap plaster . and then do the "pop bottle " shrink if I need a replacement , And now with the big 3 ltr bottles and the gallon water bottles , usually ribbed unfortunately , you can replicate the whole or part.

cheers

Phil B26/08/2020 11:56:47
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231 forum posts
243 photos

Thats interesting do you cast the plaster inside the cowl? Then does it release ok?

Phil B26/08/2020 11:59:19
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231 forum posts
243 photos

I have to make one for my h9 f6f hellcat 60.

If anyone would like to send me their knackered cowl I could make a mould and cast some if there's interest.

Doug L26/08/2020 21:59:33
4 forum posts
2 photos

+1 from me. I fiberglass cowl would be good, as I do agree the P47 bubbletop is a very good flyer.

Not sure if you can make a mould from one that's had a few years of some poor landings...

img_3621.jpg

Philip Baker27/08/2020 08:15:31
avatar
53 forum posts
49 photos

You can usually patch up a poor cowl or make a blank. Both involve patience and much sanding. I'm working on my Sebart Angel 50 cowl at present which was very cracked. Most of these commercial ones are a bit thin and the flexing cracks the gell coat. Beefing them up internally when new helps.

I am planning to make moulds for the Hangar 9 Hellcat and P47 (the older 67 inch wingspan size for 60 I.c.) as these are not easy to obtain or are stupidly expensive or both! Watch this space or PM me for details.

Phil B27/08/2020 09:31:44
avatar
231 forum posts
243 photos

I also checked out the Vortex ones. Not overly keen on those plastic vac form mouldings on large models. You cant beat fibreglass and its also much more repairable. I still like making balsa cowls the old fashioned way!

Stuphedd27/08/2020 10:03:43
727 forum posts
376 photos

I cast the inside of my cowls , Just fill the new one with plaster , but support the new one in a bucket of sand so as the shape is not distorted,

When you "shrink" a bottle onto the plastercast , leave the screw on top in place because I find that putting a little hole in the cap and using a foot pump / airline you can blow the bottle off the mould .Providing there is no reverse angles inhibiting the release .

If there is no way of Blowing it off , I have resorted to cutting a straight line down the bottom of the Moulded cowl and peeling it and glueing up the cut

Outside moulds I make in two halves , ie Acrowot ones and then lay up fibreglass , messy but fun especially when it works , ,

dont "paint" the plaster casts in anything , In my case it always sticks to the inside of the cowl wrecking both cowl and mould ,

Phil B21/09/2020 02:54:12
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231 forum posts
243 photos

Work on a new cowl for the Hangar 9 P47 (60 size) cowl.

img_20200903_212436.jpg

The original with much patching up and splits.

In order to create a copy from a mould made externally, I am going to close all cutouts and strengthen the original. The plastic simulated engine could be moulded anew from fg also

Phil B21/09/2020 03:02:34
avatar
231 forum posts
243 photos

img_20200904_104436.jpg

The cutouts lose the rounded shape so need restoration.

An internal template for the cowl fitting from depron.

img_20200908_110118.jpg

Some trial and error fitting required.

Using shaped balsa inserts to restore the round profile and the engine plate removed (gentle heat to soften epoxy) to begin making a mould. img_20200911_203944.jpg

Phil B21/09/2020 03:08:43
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231 forum posts
243 photos

A coat of fg cloth externally and internally after removing, with sandpaper all the original chequers (vinyl decals) and the soft gell coat which was delaminating and split.

Primer shows up defects which will need rubbing and filling.

Eventually I'm ready to start making a moulding frame.

img_20200920_154348.jpgimg_20200911_204446.jpg

Phil B21/09/2020 03:15:51
avatar
231 forum posts
243 photos

This first mould will give me a basic shape and is quicker than starting from scratch.

img_20200911_203916.jpg

Andy Stephenson21/09/2020 23:00:58
250 forum posts
40 photos

Phil,

This is starting to look like the process I followed with the cowl of a DSM Joker. The original was a sorry 2 part ABS vac form. I joined the two halves which had inevitably fallen apart, glassed the entire inside filling all the holes previously cut for the cylinder head etc. I made an MDF plug which fitted into the opening to prevent it from sagging. I then filled all the dents and scratches with car body filler, sanded and primed it. I made a moulding box which I filled with 2 part silicone moulding compound around the plug open side up. It took 2 attempts, the second one worked perfectly. With the mould still in the box for support, I layered the inside with 81gsm glass cloth and laminating epoxy SP113. Then a second layer of 180gsm cloth. I did this in strips and reinforced the stressed areas with extra cloth each time rolling it to the mould surface with a DIY long handled roller. On releasing the completed cowl from the mould the first few attempts weren't great but eventually this is what I achieved. cowl.jpg

Andy.

Edited By Andy Stephenson on 21/09/2020 23:03:22

Phil B22/09/2020 02:11:39
avatar
231 forum posts
243 photos

Thanks Andy and a good result. It's satisfying to make your own especially when the bought ones are so flimsy.

I intend to use 2 part silicone with some other material supporting and I may make a secondary plug to refine the shape a little.

Here is the moulding frame under construction.

img_20200921_212856.jpg

And the engine plate being prepared for moulding

img_20200921_215002.jpg

Tony Richardson22/09/2020 07:18:41
avatar
658 forum posts
25 photos

Hi Doug, I know its the other side of the pond for you and I have no idea of what your government would charge you for taxes but Fiberglass specialties **LINK** has the cowl you are looking for..

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