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Building board

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Bill Rogers 113/09/2020 09:06:04
2 forum posts

About to start building my first model.

Advice as to best type of material for a building board would be much appreciated This is to sit on top of a new workbench 3m long by 600mm wide by 40mm thick smooth finish kitchen worktop.

Thank you

Bill

Keith Berriman13/09/2020 09:40:00
851 forum posts
7 photos

Hi Bill looks like everybody busy this morning to answer your question.

The most popular answer will be plaster board, I actually have some 2inch thick rigid foam ( blue stuff) and okay with that

Kevin Wilson13/09/2020 09:46:55
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404 forum posts
13 photos

I built my last plane on a cork faced noticed board that I had laying around. Placed on the same kitchen worktop you describe.

Search this forum for building board and you will get a huge amount of options. Enough to stop you starting the build!

The forum Search isn't too hot but you can pop this into a search engine. 'building board' site:model flying.co.uk

Edited By Kevin Wilson on 13/09/2020 09:47:34 ... Grr! auto (in)correct

Edited By Kevin Wilson on 13/09/2020 09:49:37

DavidH13/09/2020 11:06:14
30 forum posts
1 photos

i use 12mm fibre board on 12mm oriented strand board (OSB) from local DIY store who cut it to required size. Cling film on plans as a glue protector.

20200913_104205.jpg

SLEC have a range of useful building aids including building boards (MDF and balsa) and a jig:

**LINK**

kc13/09/2020 12:05:41
6953 forum posts
175 photos

Plasterboard is the thing. Several loose pieces that just suit the job in hand - some larger for wings and several smaller for tailplanes or very small models. Cna be moved to one side to get on with another item.

Tom Gaskin 113/09/2020 12:21:03
50 forum posts
5 photos

Sundela board is a good, if expensive, option. A bit like MDF, but takes pins easily.

Tom

Peter Miller13/09/2020 12:29:26
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11780 forum posts
1416 photos
10 articles

I use a 48" X 12" melamine covefred shelf from B&Q covefred with 10mm thick self adhesive cork tiles available on Ebay. These are easy to put up on the building bench and remove. The cork tiles hold pins well.

I have two so I can build two wings at once. See one of my Build blogs.

I also have a much shorter wider one for some of the strange models I build, (MAK 15 MP) ot wider wings (Easter Eagle Senior)

If your supermarket sells flowers the film they use to wrapround the bunches makes greaat plan protection film.

Well the stuff from Waitrose does and the nice ladies will give you a wad for free!!

Edited By Peter Miller on 13/09/2020 12:31:51

leccyflyer13/09/2020 12:33:51
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1760 forum posts
349 photos
Posted by Tom Gaskin 1 on 13/09/2020 12:21:03:

Sundela board is a good, if expensive, option. A bit like MDF, but takes pins easily.

 

Tom

 

Another vote for Sundeala here, on a blockboard or even thick MDF baseboard, but it is outrageously expensive now - priced some a few weeks ago and it was £70 plus for an 8x4 sheet -no chance of an offcut either, as I asked.

Edited By leccyflyer on 13/09/2020 12:34:50

John Stainforth13/09/2020 13:36:17
408 forum posts
64 photos

Having built all my models as a youth on plaster board with pins, I am now totally converted to plate glass and no pins, as advocated by Dave Platt.

Chris Walby13/09/2020 14:04:59
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1467 forum posts
399 photos

+1 for plaster board, drawing pinned and SLEC plastic sheet over the top

Kevin Wilson13/09/2020 15:58:35
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404 forum posts
13 photos

I would second the suggestion to have 2 narrow building boards.

I use a separate wing board as it is nice to put a section aside to dry and keep building.

Bill Rogers 114/09/2020 07:35:19
2 forum posts

My sincere thanks to all for the repies and suggestions.

Bill

Ernie14/09/2020 15:16:16
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2550 forum posts
24 photos

Hi All

Many architects have now gone digital. So there must be hundreds of old drawing boards (or even more) Lying around. They are microscopically flat, and usually perfect for pinning onto.

Mine is around a meter by a meter and a half

ernie

MikeyC3822/12/2020 21:27:41
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4 forum posts

Hi All

I made my building board from a piece of kitchin top (plain, no finish) very dense around 600 x 1500 and covered with Sundela board glued on with contact adhesive. The kitchin top is around 40mm thick very heavy won't warp. Perfectly flat for building.

Regards

Mike

Brian Lambert22/12/2020 22:32:47
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350 forum posts
6 photos

wot no one recommending steel or glass?

Martin Harris - Moderator22/12/2020 22:58:12
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Moderator
9808 forum posts
264 photos

I can understand steel and magnets and cutting on glass but how would you secure the parts over the plan?

Brian Lambert22/12/2020 23:26:48
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350 forum posts
6 photos

Dave Platt uses glass, glues (CA) parts or clamps to the glass and removes with a blade.

Martin Harris - Moderator22/12/2020 23:38:15
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Moderator
9808 forum posts
264 photos

Not come across that technique - should be pretty true, especially if he uses plate glass!

Edited By Martin Harris on 22/12/2020 23:39:39

David Davis 223/12/2020 07:13:52
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48 forum posts
26 photos

I have two building boards.

The smaller one is similar to David H's but mine has chipboard as the substrate rather than partical board.

My larger board is simply a piece of plasterboard plonked on the bench.

The resulting models look stroight enough to me!

Robin Colbourne23/12/2020 16:12:27
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784 forum posts
21 photos

Thanks to this thread, I've just bought two packs of these:

1/2" thick cork tiles, pack of 4

Although the title says 'Magicfly' I'm hoping they will be suitable for non-'Model Flight Accessories' models too! wink 2

In answer to Brian Lambert's question, the board I made earlier this year uses cork tiles stuck to a glass table top that my neighbour was chucking out. The tiles were only about 6mm thick, hence buying the thicker ones for better pin retention.

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