Odd Job

Thank you gents

Stuart, you've spotted my styling inspiration!

DD, got to love the orange, it's grown on me. Maybe I should put some orange checks on the blue bit!?

john, I must get that maneuver on camera

Quite pleased with how quick it has come together... must be because it has been built in my study instead of out in the workshop (which is still under construction - although nearing completion now). I've been able to put in a half hour here and a fifteen minutes there every day since starting it two months ago.

You were dead helpful with my Chilli Breeze so it makes sense Are you going to submit the design to the mag? It's make a brilliant plan.

Looking good!

Do a search for 'super hots' for a 1980's doppelganger.

Tom

Edited By Tom Gaskin 1 on 02/12/2020 13:21:34

No worries Stuart. Not sure how I'd submit?

Thanks Tom yes super hots has similar triangular decking lines for sure 👍

Last pic... finished bar pushrods, which are in the post... put some white flashes on to break up the orange:

C of G has come out spot on at 5" back, which was nice. The battery needed to be stowed right at the back of the wing saddle. That 70 is a weighty lump! Final weight is 2.25kg / 5lb. A few oz over the expected. Only way to drop any weight that I can see is a smaller and lighter power plant.

Hi Nigel, that looks really good and fairly simple to build, I have a question though. I've never used foamboard, so where do you buy it and what specification is it ? also what glue do you use ?

Tia, Davey

Looks great Nigel.

Drop Peter Miller a line regarding the magazine submission; I am sure he will be able to advise. I think it would be a very worthy design and I'm up for it!

Graham

Thanks Graham, DaveyP

The foamboard I used is the stuff available from Hobbycraft, four A1 sheets for a tenner.

I used medium cyano on any foamboard to balsa joins. The really thin stuff gets a bit too hot when it cures and the heat seems to melt the foam, but slower stuff seems to work ok. For wing sheeting you need PVA I guess, or a foam friendly contact adhesive like copydex (i.e. not evo stik).

I'll hold fire on any plan submission until she is flight proven!

---

A brief update:

The good:

I've run the motor up. Nice lumps, the old Surpasses. Fired straight up (after removing the flat glow stick and using my old power panel), good throttling, steady idle, all good.

However, the bad:

In the process I discover that the battery has a bad connection somewhere. I tried plugging it straight in to the RX and still found issues when waggling the wire, so either the plug, or the wire, or maybe even a connection inside the battery is flaky. Not something I want to chance. A new battery is in the post...

And the ugly:

I made pushrods using standard M2 rods & metal clevises (clevii???). The rudder and elevator pushrods are too long, and will easily bend. I will need to reinforce them. I guess the lesson is thicker rods are needed for that amount of unsupported pushrod. My (ugly) fix will be to bind some dowel or hard balsa strip to the metal and splash some fuelproofer on it.

Ah well. Best to discover these things on Terror Firmer.

Edited By Nigel R on 08/12/2020 17:40:09

Good luck with the test flights and lets hope you can get the design published. It's always been said that to get your design published you need to have a photo of the model in flight. I don't know why they cannot just take the pilots word for it! So make sure you get some photos done by someone with enough expertise with a camera whilst the model is still pristine without oil residue or hanger rash.

Edited By kc on 08/12/2020 17:53:59

Good luck with the maiden flight, I am sure it will be a success Nigel.

I am also sure that it would be a successful/popular design/kit too.

D.D.

First time I've visited this thread. I must say that for an odd job made from leftover scraps, that looks really good. I hope it lives up to the design brief.

I use 3mm carbon tube, which has a 2mm hole. Then glue in 2mm threaded rod at each end with either epoxy, or, I think better, JB Weld Kwik. I use a standard s/s clevis at one end (at the control surface) and a ball joint at the servo end. That's so that it's very unlikely to unscrew as the plastic ball joint is very stiff on the threaded rod. They're surprisingly stiff even with no further support.

Note that if the rod should turn and both ends have fairly free threads the adjustment stays perfect right up to the point it falls off with obvious consequences.

Geoff

Thanks for the kind words gents.

Geoff I've never tried the carbon rod, where do you source it?

Excellent job Nigel, looking forward to news of the maiden and subsequent plan.

Nigel

Hyperflight are a good source for carbon rod, tubing etc: **LINK**

Odd Job looks really fabby!