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The new ARTF WOT4

The new ARTF WOT4

First look...... - 28/9/09

Bob Moore25/06/2010 15:28:07
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736 forum posts
124 photos
Wow!
 
What are the 'hinges'?  I used mylar.
 
And I think it will go like a beast with a 53 engine.  MIne just has an e bay s/h £20 OS 40 with a normal 10x6? prop (I think) and has more that enough power IMHO. Will cruise at fast tickover. And fully open is pretty fast.
 
Just make sure you do all your pre flight checks properly before you do get to fly the new baby. Including a range check.  There is a tale on here somewhere of a poor b.gger who launched his new Wot 4, complete with lots of expensive new bits, and it flew away into the horizon. (Never to be seen again)
 
One thing I forgot to mention re my second Wot flight of Wednesday; I had bought a new tx a couple of months back, and set up the memory with my 5 models. 3 power, and one leccy glider, one Zagi. The Wot was unflown since.
 
Got to the strip feeling nervous (as one does) as hadn't flown the Wot since it's maiden a few months ago, but VERY carefully did my pre flight checks. I  found I 'd set up the new tx with the ailerons working reversed!  Could have been bye bye, crash if I'd not been careful.  Flew the baby today as well, but discovered that gusty very strong thermic days don't suit the large wing area . Well not for me anyway. Came home in one piece but both landings were pretty hairy, especially compared to my beautiful landings of Wednesday!
 
Have fun.
 
PS Lovely looking engine!

Edited By Bob Moore on 25/06/2010 15:30:30

250quadguy8425/06/2010 17:34:23
122 forum posts
1 photos
Hehe thanks for the comments guys the hinges I had to get as a replacement as I had to take the elevators back off to correct some twist in the elevator bar.
 
Im just putting my fuel tank together, im slightly confused about what I should be doing here.
 
Here is my progress so far
 
 
 
Basically I have two shorter pipes of the same length and a longer one, the picture is unclear in the instructions, does the longer tube get used on the rubber pipe that leads down to the clunk at the bottom of the tank, this is then connected to the carb on the engine, then 1 bent pipe is used for venting (does this need to go to  the exhaust?) and the other bent pipe is used for filling? do i need to put a stopper in the filler tube otherwise fuel would come out?
 
Any help appriciated as per usual
Also
 
I am fitting the elevator control rod, however it says in the instructions (Screw a nylon clevis on to the rod) now forgive me for being abit stupid but the only rods that were supplied threaded are shorter ones (IE not long enough to reach the servo bay back towards the end of the plane by the elevators, all the rest (including a long rod which i am assuming is supposed to be the elevator push rod) is non threaded.
 
 
Thanks

 

Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 18/07/2018 22:37:31

Myron Beaumont25/06/2010 17:56:00
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5797 forum posts
51 photos
Darren ,
Difficult to explain BUT here goes . First of all ,the short one with the bend in goes into the top hole in your rubber bung facing upwards but not touching the tank top. This is your pressure feed from the muffler nipple ie Into a void in the tank top .Secondly ,You can use either of the other two holes for the feed pipe to your clunk with a shortish length only inside the tank (3/4 " or so depending on the size of course)To allow the pipe in there to go up & down so to speak without scraping against the rear of your tank -leave some clearance! . I suspect that one hole in the bung (next to the one I was talking about )is not pierced through yet completely .? This can be your third pipe to be used for filling the tank with if you so wish if you "break through the rubber " I personally would ignore it & fill the tank through the tube that goes to the engine .BUT depending on the model/ installation you might need it & plug it after refilling. eg Scale /etc if you can't easily access the carb/pipe joint .
Hope this helps
Myron
250quadguy8425/06/2010 18:10:50
122 forum posts
1 photos
Ok, so to make sure I got this straight, if im looking at the bung with the two pierced holed at the top, I use a short tube bending up that goes to the muffler, the other hole at the top (which I have now pierced) can be used for filling (i will use the longer tube for this), the the one remaining hole at the bottom is the shorter tube which feeds to the clunk at the bottom of the tank?
 
Got it I think  
 

Myron Beaumont25/06/2010 18:24:29
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5797 forum posts
51 photos
Darren
Yep .By the way, don't use any type of screw to stop up your filler tube now you've committed yourself? The threads allow leakage . You can get ali bungs for just a few pence & they can be used in other fuel pipe "bunging up" situations too (your bottle).I say this 'cos the ones I have came in a pack of three .
(ideal for the weekend comes to mind -Sorry   
250quadguy8425/06/2010 18:38:01
122 forum posts
1 photos
cool great ta, I wont use a screw I will get an ali bung. On the top of my tank bung you can see the screw I have in place, this is quite loose It can easily be pushed out. Is this if pressure is put on it from the inside. This cant be right surely?
Bob Moore25/06/2010 18:43:05
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736 forum posts
124 photos
Hi Darren
 
Once you've fitted the engine cowl it will be difficult to fill up the tank by using the pipe to the carburetor.  (You won't be able to get to it!) I think it wise to fit tubes to all three pipes.  As said, the lower should have the flexible tube attached inside with a clunk at the end to feed the carb.  The idea being of course it will feed the carb even if the plane is flying up side down. (Gravity takes clunk downwards.)  I've only built a couple of models but two pipes are bent to go up, one filler, one for the exhaust connection  (to pressurise the tank, and as said the lower straight connects to the carb.
 
I stick the smooth end of a small broken twist drill in the end of my filler after I 've filled.
 
Once you've flown and want to empty the tank (to stop it getting all old and oily.) turn the model upside down and suck (with the pump) the fuel from the same filler pipe.
Bob Moore25/06/2010 18:44:28
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736 forum posts
124 photos
The bung should have a small bolt thru it, and a washer and nut goes in the recess on the inside. The idea being when you tighten it, the bung expands and seals the tank.
 
 PS You can't fill with fuel through the exhaust tube as the tank needs to vent thru that when you are filling. Plus, when it overflows thru the exhaust, you know the tank is full!

Edited By Bob Moore on 25/06/2010 18:45:00

Edited By Bob Moore on 25/06/2010 18:46:50

250quadguy8425/06/2010 18:51:08
122 forum posts
1 photos
Cool thanks for the info I will update with pictures and a write up once I have progressed.
Bob Moore25/06/2010 18:53:34
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736 forum posts
124 photos
Another ps
 
Once the bung (tighten) and pipes are fitted, blow into a tube while blocking the others and you should be able to test if it's gas tight.
250quadguy8426/06/2010 13:03:48
122 forum posts
1 photos
Does anyone know if these aileron control rods are supposed to have threads both ends to screw on the clevisis, as only one end as a thread, infact none of my bars have threads at both ends, the instructions suggest to use the non-threaded end for the servo output arm, and do a 90 degree bend upwards and feed the wire through the hole,
 
Does this seem ok? Iv seen pictures of other builds using what looks like a threaded rod (at both ends).
250quadguy8426/06/2010 17:04:18
122 forum posts
1 photos
Aileron control rods fitted and aileron control throws tested. Both at 9mm up and down at the moment, I might reduce this back to 6mm up and down for the first flight.,
 
250quadguy8401/07/2010 19:49:44
122 forum posts
1 photos
OK I have mounted the engine as per instructions, it suggested to leave a gap, however there are other pictures showing the engine mounted right up towards the bulkhead. On the rear of the engine (nearest the bulkhead) there is an exposed cylinder (silver hole) is something supposed to go on here?
 
See pics

Paul Slade01/07/2010 19:57:59
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10 forum posts
No that's just the engine backplate casting.
250quadguy8401/07/2010 20:52:38
122 forum posts
1 photos
Cool thanks
250quadguy8403/07/2010 17:51:43
122 forum posts
1 photos
Well looks like im going to have to order replacement parts from ripmax dont know if i mentioned this, but i had a problem with elevator alignment, there was a twist in the bar, which meant i had to remove the elevators, cut the hindges out, correct bar twist and re-install, problem is I couldnt remove the old hinges from the slots when they were glued in, i used debonder but the old hinges are still stuck in the slots meaning I cant install new ones. the slots are looking kinda shabby now because I have tried removing them, the tail plane slots are not damaged as such but the hindges are still stuck in the slots.
 
The elevator slots are slightly worse for wear.
 
Here is the pic
 

 
Paul Slade03/07/2010 19:56:30
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10 forum posts
Posted by on 03/07/2010 17:51:43:
Well looks like im going to have to order replacement parts from ripmax dont know if i mentioned this, but i had a problem with elevator alignment, there was a twist in the bar, which meant i had to remove the elevators, cut the hindges out, correct bar twist and re-install, problem is I couldnt remove the old hinges from the slots when they were glued in, i used debonder but the old hinges are still stuck in the slots meaning I cant install new ones. the slots are looking kinda shabby now because I have tried removing them, the tail plane slots are not damaged as such but the hindges are still stuck in the slots.
 
The elevator slots are slightly worse for wear.
 
Here is the pic
 

 

 Just get it as tidy as you can and cut some new slots. It will be less expensive and less hassle than buying new parts. A little hint too if I may indulge you. You appear to have epoxy smeared around the flying and control surfaces, go and buy some methylated spirit. Wet some kitchen towel with the meths and rub the affected areas vigorously. It will soften and remove the staining. Once you have new hinges installed  you will not see the old raggy assed slots. I suspect we've all had similar experiences whilst we were learning. Chalk it up to experience, learn from it and your next one will be much better.

Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 18/07/2018 22:38:02

Myron Beaumont03/07/2010 20:45:37
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5797 forum posts
51 photos
Replacement parts ???  I'm lost for words  
Ernie04/07/2010 09:44:59
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2516 forum posts
21 photos
Hi Paul, I think it's important to  learn to think out solutions to problems, and to try to make & mend
Sooner or later you are going to break things, so fixing becomes a necessity 
 
ernie 
Paul Slade04/07/2010 10:02:14
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10 forum posts
You are correct Ernie. I have never been much for repairing, but If I really enjoy a model then the effort is usually worthwhile, hence my post offering a less costly solution to Darrens problem. I notice a couple of posts digging at Darren and personally think this is un called for. The lad obviously lacks experience, If I were any where nearer I would have gone and helped out personally. Hopefully he will be able to resolve his problems with a little help from this forum. He will learn from his experiences and with any luck will continue with other models. It may be that they don't end up being too pretty either BUT he will still enjoy them.
 
We  have a chap in our club who struggles to stick 2 bits of wood together without a huge gap, he has been labelled as the only man in the club who builds second hand models and they often look like they've been covered in the microwave, Solarfilm Ding , but he enjoys them. His ARTF's tend to turn out very similar for some reason, he's been in the hobby since God was a youngster. The thing is though most of the time his models seem to fly well and also seem to last forever.
 
I think we need to nurture newbies like Darren and help them as much as possible. Many times I have been asked similar questions to what has been asked here. Some people will say they are silly questions. Is there any such thing as a silly question within this hobby? I don't think so. Come on Darren ask away mate. For the most of us, if we can help, we will. just ignore the sniping posts.
 
Paul

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