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The new ARTF WOT4

The new ARTF WOT4

First look...... - 28/9/09

Tim Mackey18/06/2010 21:23:15
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20920 forum posts
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15 articles
Sub trim should be available for each servo ( aileron and flap )
250quadguy8418/06/2010 23:21:52
122 forum posts
1 photos
OK the one servo that was slightly off is now trimmed, both are now at 90 degrees
250quadguy8420/06/2010 19:32:53
122 forum posts
1 photos
OK have fitted the tail, elevator and rudder but havnt attached them to the servos just yet. A few small questions though,
 
I have some concern over the gaps between the elevators tail, and the rudder and the fin, does this look ok from the pic?
 
Thanks
 


 
Bob Moore22/06/2010 09:25:41
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736 forum posts
124 photos
Doesn't look too bad to me?  I tried to get mine as close as possible but still allowing free movement. of the control surfaces  I used superglue and it was a tricky job slipping the mylar in before the glue went off . Next time 30 min epoxy I think.
 
I doubt a small gap will dramatically affect performance.  I think they worry about it with serious aerobatic  models?
 
Make sure the rudder horn is low enough so it doesn't foul the elevator.
 
Come to think of it, they supply a pair of control wires. I used a snake!
 

250quadguy8422/06/2010 09:31:31
122 forum posts
1 photos
If im asking too much please let me know, is there any chance of a closer picture of your rudder control horn, also the snake? At the moment inside my model, attached to the rudder servo I have the 2 control cables, are you saying you replaced the entire length of cable between the rudder servo and the rudder control horn at the rear of the plane? or are you combining the rudder control cable and the snake?
Bob Moore22/06/2010 09:51:57
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736 forum posts
124 photos
A few more pics below.  The snake is just a plastic tube with a stainless steel wire that push/pulls through it to move the control surface. I used solder on clevis's as the ones supplied were crap!  The other end is just bent to go thru the servo control arm. My model shop guy has a special pair of pliers he uses, but you can use small pliers.
 
I glued a small mini bulkhead inside to secure the inboard end of the snake and you can see the outboard end is also glued.
 
Hope this helps.
 
250quadguy8422/06/2010 10:10:31
122 forum posts
1 photos
Ahh I see, so you didnt use the standard cables that came with the plane and instead replaced with the control rods and snakes.
 
Did you buy them metal control rods seperatly or are those the ones that came with the WOT 4 package?
 
I am due to go to the model shop on friday so will see what he can sort out for me
 
Will take this pics along with me also.
 
Thanks

 

Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 18/07/2018 22:42:10

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator22/06/2010 10:13:23
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15748 forum posts
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Your hinging looks fine - but to make it easier next time, here's a tip on fitting mylar hinges....
 
As you've found out it can be a pain if you put the CA on first then insert them. There's an easier way.
 
1.First drill a small hole in the centre of each hinge slit - just 1mm or so and the depth the hinge will go in upto.
 
2. Next insert a T pin (a ordinary dressmaking pin will do) into the hinge itself exactly on the centre line - the purpose of this is twofold; first to stop the hinge from just going into one surface so as to ensure you get an equal amount of hinge either side of the joint and second to act as a spacer in the joint.
 
3. Now, with the pins still in place in the hinges, assemble the control surface - pushing it in until the pin is pinched between the surfaces.
 
4. Now remove the pins, flex the joint right back one way and put 2-3 drops of CA on the hinge - note on the tiny amount of hinge that will just visible not the control surface. The hole you drilled will ensure the CA wicks right into the joint - if you look carefully you will see the CA sitting on the surface as a drop and then suddenly iy will literally dissapear as it runs into the hinge. Now turn the surfaces over, flex them the other way and repeat with the CA.
 
5. Flex the hinges backwards and forwards a few times for 5-10 secs just in case there is any CA on the surfaces themselves.
 
I do my mylar hinges this way - and I've never had one come loose even though I don't pin them.
 
BEB
Bob Moore22/06/2010 10:36:53
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736 forum posts
124 photos
Hi Darren
 
The only one I changed was the rudder one.  Though I think the throttle one supplied is a bit  stiff.  Made it tricky to fit and get the bend right for the small lever on the engine carb. It would have life easier to put a flexible snake there too I think.
 
The mylar tip is good Mr Biggles. ta v much!
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator22/06/2010 10:51:29
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Darren,
 
the snake will work well as long as you don't have too much unsupported length of rod at the end. But TBH the closed loop wire system will work better in my opinion.
 
Everyone seems to have the same issue with closed loop - they feel its complex and surely it can't work that well. I include myself in that - I used to reject closed loop and fit a snake just like loads of others.
 
Then one day I bit the bullet and had a go at closed loop - I've never looked back. To my great delight it was a piece of cake to install - easier than using a rod or a snake (no complex bends or supports etc needed). Even better - I realised it works really well. You get no slop at all - its very positive and precise - much better than any other system I've come across. I now use it anywhere I can - on the Pup I'm building I'm even using it on the ailerons!
 
The quality of closed loop shouldn't really be such a surprise - given that it was used for ages on the real thing! Everyone I know who has plucked up the courage to try closed loop has had the same experience - a really great result and thinking "why didn't I do this before?".
 
So, why not give the wires a try? You've nothing to lose - if you don't like it you can always change it for a snake. But I think if you give it a go you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is and how well it works.
 
BEB
250quadguy8422/06/2010 11:45:37
122 forum posts
1 photos
I dont mind giving it a try its just I heard alot of people were replacing them for the rods/snakes hence why I thought that it would be best if i change to a rod/snake setup.

might give the closed loop system a go then with the wire on the rudder and the elevator, and the rod on the throttle.
DAVID CLIFFORD23/06/2010 09:07:23
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289 forum posts
103 photos
Darren, THIS is the thread i placed on here when i built mine.
I to opted for the snake on the rudder, much more sturdy and responsive.
David
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator23/06/2010 10:04:41
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David,
 
Have you ever actually tried a closed loop control system?  I'd possibly accept that a snake is more sturdy - though even that's marginal IMO and not "much more" - but no way is a snake a more responsive control mechanism, that just isn't the case.
 
These comments are typical of what I too thought about closed loop - until I actually tried it. I my opinion, in the absence of the sort of close tolerance engineering a modern full size aircraft manufacturer can engage in, closed loop is the simpliest and most effective way to move a control surface.
 
BEB
Vinno23/06/2010 13:59:17
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90 forum posts
41 photos
am still thinking of one of these as am not a builder, I know the mk3 kit can take heftier 4 strokes, I have a dormant 65fs that I'd like to use , is the artf ok with such a lumpy motor or am I better of trying to find a second hand mk3 classic airframe ?
Cheers in advance
Vin
Paul Slade23/06/2010 16:53:34
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10 forum posts
Posted by Vinno on 23/06/2010 13:59:17:
am still thinking of one of these as am not a builder, I know the mk3 kit can take heftier 4 strokes, I have a dormant 65fs that I'd like to use , is the artf ok with such a lumpy motor or am I better of trying to find a second hand mk3 classic airframe ?
Cheers in advance
Vin

 Your for stroke will be fine. One of the guys at our club flys his with a Saito .82, no cowl fitted though, it just isn't big enough to go around the engine.

Bob Moore23/06/2010 18:18:22
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736 forum posts
124 photos
Bit of encouragement for you maybe?  I built mine several months ago,  but only flew it for the second time again today.   (I wanted a bit more stick time.) Anyhow, the plane was a joy to fly!  The only thing that needs adjusting is the rudder throw.  Way too much much movement.  My engine is an e bay special,  OS 40, more than enough power IMHO?  Bumpy thermic day.
 
I mounted a mini dv 808 on the leg and took some video. (This is a ten quid video camera by the way.)  Great video I think.
 
Mine just has an OS40.  More than enough power I'd say. It will fly almost at tickover speed?
 

Edited By Bob Moore on 23/06/2010 18:26:19

Vinno23/06/2010 19:24:43
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90 forum posts
41 photos
cheers chaps, had been warned it would be too heavy for this airframe but is reassuring to know its been done with bigger motors and lived !!! Will get orfering come pay day hopefully !
Ernie23/06/2010 19:32:19
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2516 forum posts
21 photos
Hi Guys,
re gaps between elevators and tailplane etc. Try a tape called blendorm that chemists sell. It sticks like merde (double black mark for notty words and evil foreign talk  and is nearly invisible
 
ernie
250quadguy8425/06/2010 13:38:48
122 forum posts
1 photos
Look what daddy bought home

£110 spent today :\ bit more than I intended as I need to save for holidays but what the heck.








Irvine 53 ABC MKII  £68
4.45 Ltr nitro fuel £15.65
Fuel pump with filters included  - £9.45
Sports Prop - £2.57
inline fuel filters - £1.12
Tube bending kit - £3.64
Hinges - £1.28
Glue De-bonder (as I need to fix my elevator alignment issue) - £3.97
Myron Beaumont25/06/2010 15:19:07
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5797 forum posts
51 photos
Darren
Well done .You'll get more lasting satisfaction out of your purchases than anything put towards a "holiday-fund" .ie A couple of over expensive rip off meals or so ? Who needs a so-called holiday when you're enjoying yourself . Mind you ,most women don't see it like that, 'cos they could have bought a new handbag/ shoes, or something equally innocuous.
Myron
PS You'll need a few feet of fuel tubing

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