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Harmony build blog

But, oh no! It going to be electric!

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birdy18/12/2009 14:59:56
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   Before I write anything I thought I would thank Mr Peter Miller for being kind enough to give me a copy of the original drawings for this. And sorry to him too for making it an electric.
 
   Anyhow, I intend to build this as soon as the balsa arrives, which was supposed to be today, but somehow I don't think the cuorier will be so enthusiastic as I to deliver some balsa to a village in the middle of nowhere. I plan to modify Peters plan a bit in order to  get a nice hatch for my lipos. The plan is for it to come out at about 3lb, with a 350watt motor up front, and a 2100 to 2600 3s lipo providing the juice. I want to use some futaba s3003 servos, and probably a nice(and stupidly expensive) futaba 2.4gig rx.
 
And as a waring to everyone, I am a terribly slow, and terribly unskillul builder, so don't expect this to be pretty!
birdy21/12/2009 18:36:13
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I have finally recieved my balsa - enough to build a small house, and have now cut out all but one former. I have also modified the plan. Its goinh to have a huge hatch, since the canopy is in just the wrong place. I havent any photos because there is nothing exciting to se yet.
birdy21/12/2009 22:13:26
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Heres a few pics of the days work:
Hopefully that'll dry overnight, then I can trim the bottom off and put the snakes in...
 
Seasons greatings,
 
birdy
birdy22/12/2009 21:45:32
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Days work:




I haveput the snakes in an made most of the hatch. Tomorrow I will thry and sheet the bottom and top, and do the UC.
birdy23/12/2009 14:55:33
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Later today I plan to sheet the top of the fuz, and peter had printed out some instructions for this. He suggests wetting the balsa, and then applying heat to it as it matches the formers. The problem is that I don't own a heat gun. I ask, would a covering iron do the trick?
Also, what is the best way to bend the piano wire, since last time I tried, I made a complete dogs dinner out of it, not bending it straight, as well as breaking the piano wire in places.
 
Any help apreciated (from all (64 veiws..)
 
birdy
Phil 923/12/2009 17:14:31
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bending wire can be tricky there are a number of tools available to help.
 
 
 
Peter Miller23/12/2009 18:16:26
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You are certainly doing well, IT does go together pretty quickly.
 
If the wood is suitably soft a covering iron should do but a domestic iron would be better...just don't tell the wife!!!
 
A good wire bender is an essential tool for scratch builders. Failing that, a really big, solidly mounted vice can be used.
Peter Miller23/12/2009 18:17:45
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10311 forum posts
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Don't try heating the wire to soften it, that ruins the wire for ever,
birdy23/12/2009 19:54:34
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I'll have to try and get a wire bender after christmas. I did try earlier at building one out of 1/4 inch ply. Turns out that the 8SWG wire is mightier then the ply...
birdy23/12/2009 20:50:42
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A few photos:



I havent done much today as you might notice...
Off to watch the last episode of spooks now...
 
Peter Miller24/12/2009 08:40:37
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8 guage piano wire is harder than just about anything!
 
I checked my collection of catalogues and Squires is the only place that seems to list them
 
Phone 012243 842424.
 
The Mighty wire bender needs to be held in a large vice. Not sure about the other one. You could look on the INternet. The otherone is used for up to 1/8 wire. i think I have that one but there is no pricture to confirm that.
Peter Miller24/12/2009 08:53:43
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THis is very similar to the one that I have. It does seem a little pricy but will last for years.
 
 
IT will have to be screwed down to a bench. Allow plenty of room for long ends of wire to flail around.
birdy03/01/2010 11:50:52
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1423 forum posts
110 photos
I have now sheeted the entire top. The hatch however isn't looking good, so I may try it again from scratch. That'll have to wait a while though, since I go back to  school tomorrow.
 
birdy
Peter Miller03/01/2010 12:14:54
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10311 forum posts
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10 articles
Maybe it would be better if you spot glued the hatch in place on the fuselage and then sheeted it as one and separated it later. I did that on a model once  or twice and it worked well.
birdy03/01/2010 20:57:10
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110 photos
I thought of doing that, but I was scared of cutting in the wrong place when it came to getting it out...
Peter Miller04/01/2010 08:38:49
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10311 forum posts
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Just mark the separation point on the sides and then on each skin on the top ebfore gluing down.
Peter Miller17/01/2010 17:25:19
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Finally had a good day for flying.
 
Harmony was flown and tested to the limit for wing dropping. Held on low throttle with full up elevator she just hung there. Nose high, ultra slow and still had full aileron control and not wing drop at all.
 
She was flown by two other club member who both agreed on her nice handling and good performance
birdy17/01/2010 21:25:58
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1423 forum posts
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Well thats good to hear!
birdy06/03/2010 20:13:03
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110 photos
For the first time in a while, I, actually done something: I have started hatch mk2! The first one was very weak, and wasn't straight.




Mk2 is quite different to mark one in that I aimed for simplicity and strenth, rather then keeping to peter's lines; In the mark one, there is a "bend" of the spine about a third of the way down the hatch, complicating it alot. I ommited that, so it might not look entirely corect, but oh well! I also  had less, but meatier (3/8) formers, and the thicker sides... Hopefully, if all the glue has dried, I'll skin it tomorrow.
Peter Miller07/03/2010 08:14:32
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10311 forum posts
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Looking good.
 
My next design (after the thing I am working on) will be a slightly enlarged biplane version of this model for .52 four strokes.
 

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