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Pix - E Major

A vintage littlun gets dragged in to the 21st century!

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The December issue preview

The December issue preview

in the shops 19th Nov

Paul Dowden05/09/2015 05:30:39
20 forum posts
131 photos

Hi All.

work keeps progressing slowly due to professional stuff getting in the bloomin way.



I cut a hole in the main firewall to accept the battery lead & control cable to the RX from the ESC.

The ESC is now fastened in on it's own mounts and has good air flow around it to keep things nice n cool.


Then I started planking the nose area of the fuz, 3/32"medium grain balsa seemed right, the motor is 2"diameter to give a bit of scale to the picture, plank widths were 1"& 1/2"depending on the curve.


The sides and top all planked up, the nose of the beastie will be very soft balsa block at 1 1/2"thick (laminated again to reduce mass)


After all the glue has set (thick cyno) I gave the whole planked area a trim with a Davids plane to remove the gross high spots & joints - sanding later to smooth it fully & then a very light glass coat to harden it all up.


The start of the actual nose block, the top inner area hasn't been trimmed out yet & the main radius hasn't been sculpted on, just a generous chamfer to get close to the shape & keep things symmetrical.

I'm debating on adding either a mesh or louvers to the yawning cavity that is generated by the nose hole that's needed for airflow over the bat & ESC, thinking maybe litho plate or some form of laser cut aly, I'll think on it & see when the time comes for a final install.


Final photo for this mini instalment is the UC & mounts, nothing too special here, 5/32 music wire at the rear & 1/8"at the front, the mounts are 2 layers laminated 1/16" ply, that has extra on the back/inside to help spread the screw loads, the rear most plate will also carry the wing strut mounting plates bolted through it and a further 2 layers of 1/16"ply to take flight loads as well as the landing loads. The front plate is supported on top of the diagonal bracing, it needed a small gusset/sliver added as the geometry makes the diagonals go straight but the side plates curve so a gap forms.

Well I hope get more out this weekend.

Cheers & clear skies.

smile d

Paul Dowden07/09/2015 15:35:13
20 forum posts
131 photos

Hi all.

another hot n humid weekend in Canada so I just hibernate, roll on the colder weather, we always thought Canada was a cold land - how wrong can you be?

so with more hibernation comes more building,

lets start with the wing struts, composite balsa, Ply & a small insert of steel.


these are the parts needed, ply I cut & laminate again I need 1/16"but use 2 of 1/32"for greater strength (more plies)

20150905_154400.jpgso after all the adhesive has set - it's time to sand,


2nd wing went into build & the assembly is really rapid once all the parts are cut out.

this was the wing in build.


I'll have to go outside to do the sanding because it's going to create one huge pile of dust,

So comes the moment of truth, where to put the servos? in the body or tail?

With the servos in the tail & battery pack on the COG so it doesn't matter the beastie balances perfectly & no ballast in sight - woo hoo - I hate ballast.


Overall view.


Nose smoothed & motor in.


OK so a full size Ladybird going for a ride? scary size but it should be a joy to fly.


View down the Fuz.


Gotta love those lines, I'll admit this is a very "pretty" aircraft, almost big enough to fly in?

OK one more shot then I'll call it a day.


So there we have it, airframe complete and ready for me to install the servos in the tail (taped onto the stab just to get where they need to go). Standard size Dr Pepper can for scale though I don't think it's really necessary.

I'll work a bit more on it today & should get another update out at the end of the week.

Cheers & clear skies.


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