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Pix - E Major

A vintage littlun gets dragged in to the 21st century!

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Sy07/01/2011 11:34:12
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31 forum posts
11 photos
Thanks for placing the photo on for me Tim. I also think the RAF trainer colours work well. It is very similar to the Beagle Husky we used to fly in as Cadets at Cambridge in the late 70's. I believe the aircraft is still about in civie ownership and same scheme?
 
Model was covered in red/silver and white litespan. the black anti-dazzle was painted in Tamiya acrylic and the roundels were cut from solartrim using a compass cutter. all up-weight was just under an ounce heavier than Tims prototype, so should be fine.
 
Answer to the above question, yes, there is a 1/8 sq strip built into the side frames for F2/3 to attach too. 

Edited By Sy on 07/01/2011 11:36:29

Edited By Sy on 07/01/2011 11:40:08

Tim Hooper07/01/2011 15:34:28
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2857 forum posts
2363 photos
Kit,
 
Sy is right in that there are 1/8"sq balsa members under the formers.
 
If you head into my photos, and find my 'Gubbins' album, you'll find lots of pics of the Pix - E.  Sorry the pics are a little disorganised, but I hadn't cottoned on to the concept of adding a new album for each new project at that stage.......
 
tim
 
 

cad16/01/2011 13:29:42
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36 forum posts
31 photos
Hi Tim. You have certainly started a rash!! at least i am itching. Havent built a model for 40m years after an argument, and smashing the KK Marauder over the kitchen sink! Things have certainly changed. My bit box is non existent, so I am starting from scratch, not built an electric model and certainly havent flown RC, but the build drags me on. Some help please.
Have fitted the bell out runner as suggested. Do I need to release the fitting held on with grub screws and move it down the rotor arm clear of the cowl , or does it hold the bell housing, and do I need another fitting to hold the prop.
Using silver tissue for covering but not going really well, are there any vids to show me what I should be doing. Should I wet the tissue before first adhering to the frame, let it dry and apply dope, or fit it dry, then water spray/shrink/ and apply dope?
Tim Hooper16/01/2011 19:54:26
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2857 forum posts
2363 photos
cad,
 
Thanks for posting!
 
Firstly, if you've never flown RC before, then either get help from an experienced flier (if only to rotect your investment in the Pix - E), or have a bash with a simple foam ARTF first.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by the 'rotor arm'.   Could you post a photo?
 
As for holding the prop on, I'm assuming that your motor shaft has a 3mm threaded portion at the front end?  You can either use a propellor with 3mm nuts, in front and behind OR saw that threaded portion off, and use a nice little 3mm prop adapter (as I did).  The choice is yours!
 
tim
cad17/01/2011 11:47:34
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36 forum posts
31 photos
Tim Many thanks for advice I had certainly intended to take it along to the local flying club to have it checked out. Prop shaft is of course the correct term for my "rotor arm", brain went dead as i was typing.
Colin
Tim Hooper17/01/2011 16:42:21
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2857 forum posts
2363 photos
cad,
 
I've had a quick nose around and stumbled on this article on tissue covering;
 
 
There are lots more if you Google, but I wasn't able to find any video on YouTube, which surprised me.  Anybody know of any?
 
tim
cad17/01/2011 19:28:04
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36 forum posts
31 photos
Thanks once again Tim. I forgot how effective google can be will have a browse.
regards Colin
Neil Powell31/01/2011 20:13:11
70 forum posts
22 photos
I've nearly finished my build. I've changed the wings slightly using f3 formers all the way to the wing tips. I'm still fairly new to building and wanted to make it a bit easier. THis leads me onto my question. I have built free flight before and trimmed them by gliding them. This feels too heavy to trim by gliding, so is it a case of just taking the bull by the horns and giving it a fly?
Myron Beaumont31/01/2011 20:27:14
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5797 forum posts
51 photos
Neil
Welcome --Know what you mean about trial glide/ trim etc .Unfortunately you/I can't tell from holding "into wind" whather its about right or not .Wing loading on most models is way too high . Go for the suck it and see approach I reckon ,assuming everything else is OK
Lots of luck
Myron
Neil Powell31/01/2011 20:39:25
70 forum posts
22 photos
It's my first RC build so any advice is good advice. I'll find a nice grassy field and take my mower with me to create a runway. Lol. Thanks
Tim Hooper31/01/2011 21:58:31
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2857 forum posts
2363 photos
Neil,
 
If you've used the motor I suggested, then a gentle hand launch will see the Pix-E heading skywards at a a surprising rate!
 
Let us know how it goes, will you?
 
tim
Neil Powell01/02/2011 15:54:07
70 forum posts
22 photos
Hi Tim,
 
Yes i've used the same motor.I think mine is looking at coming out slightly heavier than yours at about 14.5oz(i'm sure i ready yours was about 13oz). I'm more worried about the landing than the take off. Well it can only crash once i suppose. I don't intend to fly it until the spring so i'll keep you updated.
 
Neil
Tim Hooper01/02/2011 17:58:30
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2857 forum posts
2363 photos
Neil,
 
Why wait until then? Mine had two flights over the windless weekend we've just had! The sun came out on Sunday afternoon, and gave rise to a small thermal, which meant I could turn the motor off and stay up for several minutes without losing any height at all!
 
As for landings, ust let her glide down to within a foot or so of the ground, then feed in a little bit of up elevator so that she slows and sinks to the ground. Then, holding in full up elevator to prevent a noseover, you can taxy her back to the pits!
 
tim
Kit White02/02/2011 15:12:15
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40 forum posts
2 photos
Do I glue the horizontal tailplane before or after covering?
Tim Hooper02/02/2011 17:11:02
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2857 forum posts
2363 photos
Kit,
 
Afterwards. Cover both sides of the tailplane and elevator as seperate units. Hinge the elevator. Cut a slot for the 1/32 ply control horn, and cyano in place.
 
Offer up the tailplane to the fuselage, and measure from the tailplane to the wing tips to make sure it's all square and ship-shape, then mark the position of the fuselage sides where they meet the tailplane.
 
Remove the covering from the underside of the tailplane, where it'll make contact with the fuselage sides. Be careful not to cut through the tailplane itself when you do this! Just cut deep enough to cut the film.
 
Glue the tailplane in place, checking the alignment as you go. Gently clamp or add some weight until its dry. I used PVA glue on my model, but thick CA will be perfectly adequate on a small model such as this.
 
Hope this helps!
 
tim
Kit White03/02/2011 21:36:59
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40 forum posts
2 photos
And about covering. I was wondering wether there are any alternatives to heatshrink for this model. Is dope and tissue the only other option??
cad04/02/2011 10:13:15
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36 forum posts
31 photos
Hi Kit, I am building an RC for the first time, and have covered mine with dope and tissue, not having any film or associated equipment. I have several patches already and not taken to the air, So something more durable is desirable. One issue with tissue is what to use for the hinges. Tim I think you used a piece of film as a continuous hinge (one one side only?). and it is hard to see the join. On a tissue model I am not sure how to approach this problem without getting the hinge to show up as a big patch. Any recommendations anyone please.
Colin
Tim Hooper04/02/2011 14:52:00
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2857 forum posts
2363 photos
cad,
 
I used scraps of 'hairy' hinge material on my model, but a good alternatives range from the tradirional sewn hinge (that we used to use back in 60's for free flight and control-line models), to employing scraps of floppy disc (roughened up to remove the brown coating and to provide a key for the adhesive). Then again you could use ordinary Sellotape on top of the covering itself!
 
Kit,
 
Another alternative is to use Solite. This is a lightweight film from the Solarfilm people, designed for lightweight models. I use it often. It gives a smooth, shiny surface (like Solarfilm), but is thinner and lighter and available in arange of colours. Highly recommended!
Not every model shop stocks it, but Blackburn Model Supplies rarely lets me down!
 
 
 
I hope this helps. Mind you there are other films available - Doculam book-binding film for one - but I've no experienceof it myself.
 
tim
Tom Wright 204/02/2011 16:09:30
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3908 forum posts
297 photos
Ohhh proper building ,lovely model excellent photos ,thank you Tim i am really enjoying this.
Terry Walters04/02/2011 16:50:05
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1831 forum posts
1068 photos
What's a 'floppy disc' Grandad?
 
(With acknowledgement to the 'Not the Nine O'Clock News' hi-fi shop sketch circa 1980?)
 
TW

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