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Pix - E Major

A vintage littlun gets dragged in to the 21st century!

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The December issue preview

The December issue preview

in the shops 19th Nov

cad22/02/2011 21:16:46
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Tim, reserved an iron and picking it up from solihull argos tomorrow so hope to make further progress soon. I appreciate the amount of queries you have fielded so far, but now treading into fresh water. have watched the utube vids on how to use the film, and had a go on a spare wing. but when it comes to the areas around the cabin glazing did you pre cut the film and work away from the glazing or did you have the 1" excess which I assume overlaps the glazing and then carefully cut away to the line you want, did you then need to heat the film onto the glazing as a final action,
colin
Pat (rActive) Harbord22/02/2011 21:47:07
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Totally forgot about this plan, looks fabulous. Just got to dig out Decembers issue and check that i've got everything I need. Then I'm definitely going to build one. I reckon this could be the aircraft to get my boys interested in flying.
 
Thanks for another great plan Tim. I did your Desoutter when first published and loved that (will probably rob it of kit to go into this one)
 
Got to think of a colour scheme different to but equally fitting to your white, silver and green.

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator22/02/2011 21:56:54
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Tim, please read here
 
Thanks
 
BEB
Tim Hooper23/02/2011 09:22:39
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BEB,
 
Forgive me, guv'nor. I never meant no 'arm.........
 
tim (message received and understood)
Tim Hooper23/02/2011 09:40:43
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Posted by rActive on 22/02/2011 21:47:07:

 
Thanks for another great plan Tim. I did your Desoutter when first published and loved that (will probably rob it of kit to go into this one)
 
 
Now then, would you be the gent I met at Old Warden a couple of years ago? We flew these models together, in a sort of loose formation.......
 

 

Colin,
 
Good news about the iron! Yes, added the glazing first, and then carefully worked around the glazed areas when applying the film. Just be acrefully of applying too much heat to the glazing as it can distort if you're not too careful!
 
Nothing's ever easy, is it?
 
tim
Pat (rActive) Harbord23/02/2011 12:18:53
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634 forum posts
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Ha ha, that's not me but my Dessie looks identical. I've never flown in public, preferring the relative solitude of my own field.

Edited By rActive on 23/02/2011 12:19:42

Kit White03/03/2011 16:42:09
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40 forum posts
2 photos
My LMS only has 7.4v 1000mah or 1600mah.Which would be better for the Pix E?
Tim Hooper03/03/2011 17:00:21
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Kit,
 
I'd go for the smaller one.
 
The 1300 pack I use gives flights in excess of 20 mins or so, but I've never yet run it to cut-off point!
 
So the 1000 pack should be ample (not to mention the lighter of the two you mention).
 
Good luck!
 
tim
Kit White03/03/2011 18:16:30
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Posted by Tim Hooper on 03/03/2011 17:00:21:
Kit,
 
I'd go for the smaller one.
 
The 1300 pack I use gives flights in excess of 20 mins or so, but I've never yet run it to cut-off point!
 
So the 1000 pack should be ample (not to mention the lighter of the two you mention).
 
Good luck!
 
tim
 
Thanks, their a tad cheaper too
Why does it need to be 2s? Can it be 3s instead?
 
Here's some shots of mine. Still haven't glazed it, can't seem to get it to stick or fit any sense, so have left it for now. Helps having none for getting inside it too.


Tim Hooper03/03/2011 19:34:44
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2859 forum posts
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Kit,
 
That looks very striking indeed! A nice, tidy build too by the look of it!
 
Go for a 3S cell pack, by all means, but if you do then I'd recommend you fit a smaller prop than the 2S-friendly 9x6.
 
The extra cell will make your bell motor spin some 50% faster, so staying with the same prop would increase the current draw beyond the motor's comfortable limits.
 
So, for 3S I'd plump for an 8x4 prop instead.
 
tim
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator04/03/2011 10:33:40
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Just to add my 2p worth I would stick with a 2S set up for this model. As Tim notes a 3S will certainly power it but a bell motor usually has quite a high kv & this translates into a lot of revs on a 3S battery which can be quite frenetic & sound "wrong" in a lightweight slow flying model like this....
 
Much better to use a big prop & turn it s-l-o-w-l-y.... much more in keeping....
cad04/03/2011 23:49:00
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36 forum posts
31 photos
Hi Kit just read your concern about fixing the canopy. I used canopy glue as sugggested by Tim having never used it before. I can assure you it does work very very well. I tried instant and balsa glue, with no real success. biut canopy glue sticks like the proverbial. just make sure you have the perspec secured in place with pins or cramps and leave it for at least 12 hours it will be ok.
regards Colin
Kit White05/03/2011 09:37:56
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40 forum posts
2 photos
I'll give the glazing another try then.
I was wondering, will this ESC work with the Pix E's bell motor :
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/speed-controller-p-405437.html

Edited By Kit White on 05/03/2011 09:39:00

Tim Hooper05/03/2011 10:06:43
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2859 forum posts
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Kit,
 
That ESC looks fine!
 
tim
Kit White05/03/2011 10:26:37
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Posted by Tim Hooper on 05/03/2011 10:06:43:
Kit,
 
That ESC looks fine!
 
tim

Thanks. I was just wondering because the current draw and max current were higher than the 15A BRC one.

Tim Hooper05/03/2011 16:18:49
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2859 forum posts
2363 photos
Kit,
 
In general, going larger than specified with an ESC is not a problem - providing the weight/size of the unit won't cause cause issues with installation. As I said, you'll be fine!
 
Just as an aside, I took this pic at the field today;

The Pix-E is joined by Netty' s Renard R17 (right) for some relaxed bimbling in the calm conditions. Lurking between them is the totally barking 130mph FVK Bandit hotliner ......
 
tim
cad11/03/2011 17:56:07
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36 forum posts
31 photos

Tim, have just posted some photos of my version of your Pixie. Its livery is based on a Auster Tugmaster which I found on the web. Its almost finished.
Having been a bit robust on the front end construction i found that by laying the Li-po flat and fixing with velcro that I could adust its postiion forward or back to fine tune the COG. All up weight is 15, 1/4 ounces. Really enjoyed the build and intend to build a second one with a bit more robust coonstruction,ie slab sided, solid rudder and tail. With detachable wings complete in one piece I am thinking it would make an ideal trainer. I now DO have enough bits in my box to build one for nothing!!. At what weight would you consider uprgading the motor capacity?

Edited By cad on 11/03/2011 18:05:13

Tim Hooper11/03/2011 19:31:41
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2859 forum posts
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cad,
 
Just been through your albums, and your Pix - E looks tremendous! I really appreciate your attention to detail; even the propellor tips are coloured to co-ordinate!
 
It'll probably be a mite windy this weekend for a maiden flight though. Never mind, this sort of model is best kept for the right occasion anyway.
 
At 15¼oz it'll still be a pussycat to fly.
 
As for building another, more robust, version - there's no reason why not! If you go to a maximum of 24oz (to keep the wing loading acceptable, the same little bell motor should be fine on 3S and an 8x4 prop. be warned though, that the flying and handling characteristics will change significantly. It'll have to fly significantly faster to enable the wing to generate enough lift to carry the extra load, so don't expect the same floaty performance. The glide will be faster and probably steeper, and any 'arrivals' will have much more inertia.
 
Give it go. I'll be watching with interest!
 
tim
fly boy311/03/2011 20:12:15
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3517 forum posts
18 photos
Hi Tim,never ever dabbled with this electric stuff, but this model might just do it . Does my memory fail me, but did K/K bring out a model called the K/Kcadet, or Kadet .I seem to remember hankering over it but could not afford it even then.. Cheers
Tim Hooper11/03/2011 20:38:24
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2859 forum posts
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I've done a quick Google on KK Cadet, and it seems to have been a 30" glider! It's still available as a short kit from Green Air;
 
 
Perhaps it was a another model you recall?
 
tim

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