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Arising Star

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Trusty07/01/2011 11:17:08
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77 forum posts
Bonjour everyone!,
 
I've decided to post on this topic as i can now call myself a beginner!
Santa delivered an arising star.... now the only small problem is building it!!!
 
Has anyone got any photo's of their star they can put on to give me some idea!
I've read the instructions but seeing is believing!....
 
can anyone explain what all the push rods are for in the inside...and how do the rudder and elevators get connected???
 
Many thanks trusty.... 
Jim Carss07/01/2011 12:23:44
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2125 forum posts
81 photos
Trusty,
This is what the servo connections look like,If I remember correctly the Star has wire rods running in plastic tubes.this is my Zulu ET but the princple is the same.
 
 
Rudder and elevator rods exit the fuz in line with the plastic horns that you have to fit to the elevator and rudder surfaces.
 
The rudder servo also operates a push rod to the steerable nose wheel.
 
Hope this helps and I feel sure someone will have a pic, of the Star installation.
JIm
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator07/01/2011 12:33:56
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Sorry don't have a Arising Star Trusty. But the push rods are usually straight forward. There will be two going backwards - usually wood, and possibly one going forward - often just a piece of stiff wire in a plastic tube. All this sound familar so far?
 
OK the two going back are for the elevator and rudder. The one going forwards is for the throttle.
 
There is usually a "Z" bend in the wire attached to the forward end of the ones going back - put that into the hole in the servo arm - once you've screwed the servo down! You may have to enlarge the hole (just a little bit) if so use a 2mm drill bit.
 
The other end of the rods also have a bit of wire attached usually with a short threaded section - yes? A clevis - plastic or metal thing, looks like a two pronked fork and will be in a bag in the kit - screws on there. And the "pin" at the end of the clevis goes in a hole on something called a "control horn". You will have some control horns in a bag in the kit. They are sort of triangular in shape with 3-4 holes along one side of the triangle. Thes control horns sre screwed onto the elevator and rudder. When you screw them on - be careful to make sure that the line of holes in the control horn is in line with the control surface hinge.
 
I'll see if I can find a photo of that for you.
 
Hope this helps until someone can show you a picture.
 
BEB
Phil May07/01/2011 12:35:35
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1520 forum posts
154 photos
Hi Trusty.
   If I get a chance later I will take some photos and up load them to this post. If not today I will do it over the weekend, still half asleep after 16 hr afternoon/night shift.
                    B.P 
phil tobin07/01/2011 13:33:27
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38 forum posts
109 photos
Hi Trusty,
 
I take it you got the answer to your charging switch harness on your other thread ok?
 
I've never built this model so i'm not totally sure but i've been looking at the build instructions & your rudder & elevator push rods need to be threaded through the fuz & out the exit holes at the rear, the rudder exits through the top of the fuz at the back & the elevator exits out the very end of the fuz. Page 12 & 13 of the instructions shows you how to connect the rudder & elevator to their push rods.
 
You also have a push rod for the steerable nose wheel & there are push rods to connect the ailerons to the aileron servo.
 
My advice would be to take your time & read through the instructions carefully & completely before you attempt to build anything, once your happy, work on small sections at a time, trial fit things as much as pos' then start cutting/fitting/glueing or whatever, it will save  later.
 Also, have a look around for a build blog on this model on this or other forums, you may struggle being that it's ARTF but better to learn from other people's mistakes where possible...
Lee Wilson07/01/2011 17:02:35
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452 forum posts
258 photos

Trusty
pic of the servos in my old Arising star. Top left is throttle, bottom right is nose wheel steering and rudder and top right is elevator. My receiver was fastened to the foam you see stuck just behind the fuel tank and my battery sat in the fuel tank area. The aileron servo is in the wing and dont have a photo of that I'm afraid.
Hope that helps,
Lee
Phil May08/01/2011 14:45:38
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1520 forum posts
154 photos
Hi Trusty
  Are these any help to you   
 

Elevator servo  on the left as you look at it, Rudder and nose wheel on the right ( this is looking towards the rear of the model ) 
 

Throttle Servo showing the route the snake takes ( Right ). Left side shows the snake for the nose wheel
 

Location of the rudder horn
 

The elevator  push rod exits as shown in the centre of the fuse'
 
 The Arising Star is a fantastic trainer, it has served me well. I have had mine for three years and use it to teach my son.
 I hope these photos are of some use, if I can help in any other way PM me
    B.P 
 
 
 

Edited By Big Phil on 08/01/2011 14:47:16

Hamish08/01/2011 15:58:27
642 forum posts
47 photos
Bonjour Trusty.  Welcome to rc flying and I hope all the above is helping you.  Do you have a club near you as if you go along you will get  wealth of knowledge and experience for free.  If you have not flown a model before then a member will check it over, take it up and trim it out.  I you try on your own there is nothing surer than you will end up with firewood.  Most of all take your time and enjoy.
Trusty08/01/2011 16:18:34
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77 forum posts
Bonjour chaps! Thanks for the posts,, the info and pics are great! Im gonna print this out and stick it to my workbench (dining room table!)....
Trusty08/01/2011 16:27:45
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77 forum posts
bonjour again.......can i ask another question....... I thought i put this post on already but cant find it......the fuel tank is really long does it get cut up into 3 parts to fit the pipe and vent pipe etc... Thanks again trusty.....
Jim Carss08/01/2011 16:41:20
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2125 forum posts
81 photos
Trusty,
 
Thou shalt not cut up the fuel tank unless you want fuel sloshing around inside the fuz,
 
The 3 pipes,feed/vent and fill are pushed through the tank stopper and then inserted into the tank ( just like a ship in a bottle) and then tightened up with the centre screw to prevent any leaks.
 
keep the questions coming ,
 
Jim 
Trusty08/01/2011 18:27:06
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77 forum posts
Hi Jim.....
Thanks for the reply, did I type fuel tank!!! I should have said fuel line...........I was under presure with the kids!!!!!
The ship in a bottle! I get it now..... In the instructions it say's cut a piece of fuel line and also insert into tank creating a longer ship in a bottle....
 
Then.... it shows the end of the tank with 3 seperate fuel type lines attached to the vent and fill etc...they go towards the engine, is this the one piece of fuel line I got with the engine cut into equal parts???...
 
I hope this makes sense!!!!
 
Many thanks trusty....
 
Jim Carss08/01/2011 18:35:59
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2125 forum posts
81 photos
Trusty,
 
You have it  in one my man ,
 
Get the tank as far forward as it will go and then measure the length of tube you will need to reach the carb.and do the same with the vent pipe which goes to the pressure nipple on the silencer, the fill pipe needs to be just long enough for easy access and short enough to keep it away from the prop.
 
no probs
 
keep asking the questions,we all started where you are now.
 
Jimbo 
r6dan08/01/2011 19:06:32
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1110 forum posts
46 photos
Hi Trusty, make sure you cut the clunk  line in the tank the correct length so it can clunk around when you are flying vertical and upside down, Also set the control surfaces as stated in the destructions and put a touch of expo on the elevator too,it really helps  to smooth out inputs when you  are learning landings, Once you feel comftable with the plane give the surfaces as much movement as you can then you can really throw it around the sky!!
I don`t know if it has been mentioned yet but the landing gear is crap on the Arising star,even with with the best landings it bends like spaghetti!! you should consider making it a tail dragger,its really easy to do.
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator08/01/2011 19:20:55
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15748 forum posts
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Hi Trusty - more advice! Just to pick up on what Ross said. A key point is that the clunk tube that goes into the tank must be able to "flop" about as Ross says. Make it long enough to reach the back of the tank - but it mustn't touch the back - that way lies a stopped engine! Cut the tube so that inside the tank it finishes a couple of millimetres short of the back wall, and does what it says on the tin - ie it "clunks" up and down and side to side as you rotate the tank!
 
BEB
Phil May08/01/2011 19:49:01
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1520 forum posts
154 photos
I'm sorry, but I don't agree with r6dan about the u/c, a bit of spring in it is a blessing when learning to land. Much easier to bend it back to shape than rebuilt a ripped out mounting. As I said, mine is 3 years old and still on the original u/c.
What I do agree with is set  the throws as stated and a bit of expo on the elevator will help with the flair on landing.   
 
   B.P 
                         P.S   Something to consider is fitting the battery under the fuel tank as far forward as possible.  I did this and the model balanced perfect with no added weight.

Edited By Big Phil on 08/01/2011 19:51:36

r6dan08/01/2011 19:59:35
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1110 forum posts
46 photos
@ Big Phil,I have to admit I only changed the under carriage once I could land properly  so you could be right.
I fitted my battery  under the tank too and it balanced up nicely. 
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator08/01/2011 20:40:47
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15748 forum posts
1460 photos
In my experience most trainers spend most of their time between flights getting their u/c bent back into position.
 
Nose wheels particular tend to take a right hammering in the hands of most learners!
 
BEB
Reg 109/01/2011 18:00:42
22 forum posts
HI Guys
I am just about to start learning to fly with a Arising Star
and was worndering about changing it to a tail drager
as my club field is grass and the trike undercaragesseam to strugle
 on it, also when ( along time in the furture ) I can fly I would like to
build and fly scale W W 1 biplanes
Any Ideas or help would be greatly appreciated
                                                                                    REG
Hogster09/01/2011 18:41:04
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507 forum posts
48 photos
I started on tricycle u/c and had the same problem with the nose leg getting bent and pulled out of its fixings due to heavy landings. I converted it to tail dragger and loved it. Take offs were a bit more difficult. Not so easy to keep in a straight line. But landings were sweet. However, one day the rear of the fus developed a crack by the tail wheel. So the problem just shifted back.  I  had another trainer with a tricycle u/c and it was so easy to t/o and land I stuck with it. I think it was simply a case of me getting better at it and it wouldn`t matter what format the u/c was. My advise would be to stick with the tricycle, at least until you cant repair it anymore

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