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Wheeler Dealer?

How to stop your wheels falling off

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Jonnor15/01/2011 15:02:55
107 forum posts
I've never got on really well with wheel collets. They can be safeguarded a bit by filing a little slot in the axle where the lock screw engages, but I found what I think is a far better way of securing u/c wheels. It sounds a bit tricky, but it really is a doddle.
 
Assuming you're using 4 or 5mm wire, hacksaw a quarter inch slot down the centre of the axle. No, it's not difficult as long as the wire's clamped in the vice.  Then, squeeze the tips together so you've got a sort of triangular slot.  Fill this with solder, then drill a pin sized hole thru said solder.
 
Slip your wheel on, then a washer, then put a half inch piece of wire thru the hole and bend it to ensure it stays put..., like a split pin.
 
That wheel will never come off until you want it to.
John Norman
fly boy315/01/2011 16:03:54
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3676 forum posts
22 photos
Hi John, yes it is a good and neat solution to a problem that has affected models at some time or other. My problem is working with piano wire -full stop.  Cheers
Romeo Whisky15/01/2011 16:28:20
727 forum posts
205 photos
The easiest and cheapest is probably starlocks, as in ...
 
Tim Morton15/01/2011 17:57:47
188 forum posts
24 photos

Try this -
Fit the wheel and collet etc. wipe the end of the wire clean w/ meths or similar
take a short length of strong cotton thread and wind it on
put a few drops of thin cyano to fix it
job done! 

Edited By Tim Morton on 15/01/2011 17:58:31

Barrie Dav 216/01/2011 08:26:05
1012 forum posts
14 photos
I solder a piece of tight-fitting brass tube to cover the axle, extending just beyond the end of the axle to allow me to drill a small hole for a retaining pin.  This, with a washer each side of the wheel has never let me down and it's easy to replace the wheel if necessary.
 
Just clean and tin the axle, slide the tube in place and introduce a little solder so that capillary action sucks the solder up the tube.  Then solder a suitable washer on inboard side of the axle.   Very little solder used to no real weight added.
Peter Miller16/01/2011 08:52:48
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11093 forum posts
1309 photos
10 articles
Barrie Dav 2's sytems is very good indeed but the simplest of all systems and the most reliable is to wind a few turns of copper wire round the axle and solder it.
 
You can do the same either side of the wheel to stop it riding up the leg and of course use washers.
 
To be honest I just wind the wire round and solder it and forget the washers,
 
Providing the wire is clean and you make a good solder joint you will never lose a wheel again.
 
Strip some electrical flex for the copper wire or use fuse wire.

Edited By Peter Miller on 16/01/2011 08:53:54

Myron Beaumont16/01/2011 08:56:33
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5797 forum posts
51 photos
May I add that it helps to prevent any overheating of plastic wheel hubs when soldering by slipping a largish piece of aluminium foil ,with a tiny pilot hole in it, over the axle & a thin piece of wet cardboard as well  before any washers .This arrangement dissipates unwanted heat conduction and also gives a fraction of clearance once removed Use a largish hot iron of course & briefly
Myron
Ernie16/01/2011 09:50:50
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2530 forum posts
21 photos
good to see you back Myron
 
ernie
Roger in Dubai16/01/2011 12:43:21
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148 forum posts
13 photos
If space on the wire / axle allows - put the wheel on the wire or axle and after tightening the collet, after first filing a flat on the wire / axle, simply place a small section of fuel tube (make sure this is a tight fit) over the exposed wire / axle and job done.  Have only once, in 36 years of flying next month, lost a wheel and that was a tailwheel with no fuel tube on it !!  Trust me, it works.

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