|No. of Reviews||1|
|laurent Muchacho||08/08/2011 12:48:09|
32 forum posts
I''ve decided to have a go and take a dive with a seaplane for a my Holiday planes. Then this year I spent a bit of time looking for a seaplane and to my surprised there is a really small amount seaplane kit available in comparaison to all other type of plane.
Despise the many negative comment below in the review I think the HTwo-o is still the best seaplane available at the moment and will recommend it to an EXPERIENCED builder but not to a beginner. Use epoxy and not hot glue as recommended you plane will last much longer. Also be really careful when using cyano has under the covering there is depron and polystyrene.
My setup Keda thumrun 2826 1300kv, 8x4 turnigy thin wood proppeller and hobbywing 25amp esc standard analog plastic gear 9 grams servos
Let''s start with opening the package. Really nice double box but the plane kind of freely move within the box where is packed hence having one side of wing a bit dented and many pressure mark around the plane. The fuse former in the middle of top opening was broken when they pushed the floater inside the fuse for transport. Anyway this wasn''t so bad for the kit being delivered to france for a small £15 instead of the normal £8 to the uk.
*** Has the kit is covered, I thought originally with some sort of profilm or similar I could simply take an iron and go over to stretch the film but first surprise The depron and polystyrene wing is covered with a self adhesive film and not heat retractable film then forget the iron or you will melt the covering without re-apply any kind of tension in the film. First really poor choice material here!
Wing servo installation was more or less easy for an experienced builder has you have to perform 4 zbend on fairly short rod that connect to the torque rod for the aileron.
Mounting the motor pylon was dead easy but I was puzzled to why hot glue is recommended for the build when on some area it make sense for this area I will highly recommend you to use Epoxy instead.
***Now I''ve started to doubt on the plane designer ability to actually design and recommend anything for the construction and I was not wrong here because it went downhill from here quite badly.Next you are asked to put the motor on: When the motor is fixed you realise that the motor has at least 5 degree up trust and reading and re-reading the manual will not explain why and believe me you will be wondering all along the build why you have a motor with so much up-trust. Now it says in the manual to drill a hole to the front of the motor pylon to pass the motor wires to the esc. Creating a hole and a gap that allow water to poor in the fuse. Bad really bad. But I kept on going it was my first seaplane after all.
Now they recommend to put the esc just below that hole and gap at the front of the wing I did it with many puzzled question on how to waterproof all this holes at the wrong place.
The wing is now almost done next step fitting the bamboo stick to allow the retention of the wing by rubber band. To my surprise the manual recommend to put 1 bamboo stick behind the trailing edge and use the motor pylon to pass and retain the elastic band hence having the tension of the elastic band pulling the wing away from the slot in the fuse I was seeing red then I''ve added a bamboo stick in front of the leading edge too allowing me to cross the rubber band and create a much secure fixation. How the rubber band are not provided and just at the trailing edge there is a sharp piece of plastic/pvc put there has re-enforcement but it will slice nicely your rubber band on each flight you have been warned.
Now we get the rudder installed, cut the film put some epoxy and it''s done. I know glue the servo with double side tape bought separately I won''t even going to start on why the double sided foam is not suited for fixing a servo in that way but if you don''t please pm me I''ll explain.
So far so good but there the mess start really bad you are asked to cut a slot at the back of the fuse to make the rudder push rod sleeve pass.
Problem 1 the rudder push rod at that point is almost below the floating line of the plane then get ready to get water infiltration when it was completely possible to make the sleeve exit on the top of the fuse. But that''s nothing in comparaison to where they recommend to put the horn the rudder control surface and it is recommended to put the horn 2 centimeter away from the hinge line. This is a beginner mistake I could not believe this. I was furious because this screw up the rudder baddly and only allow 5mm, 10 if you are lucky of rudder movement without tearing the rudder from the hinge line.
Now to complete the rudder installation you are asked to make zbend at each end of the rod with the plastic sleezes around it and once the zbend done fit it onto the servo arms and glue the horn, hopping for you that you have made everything to the right length the first time around again if you are beginner this is too hard to make perfect.
Fitting the elevator servo was straight forward and gluing the t-tail was ok too I was laughing when I read that it was recommended by the first reviewer of the plane to re-enforce the t-tail with 2 bamboo stick creating a triangulation. It is hard to believe that he hasn''t thought of that the first time around when designing the plane.
An other things that you should be aware is the spare in the wing is 1cm back of the CG line Du
|Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator||08/08/2011 13:07:17|
15748 forum posts
I built an H2O just over 12 months ago for exactly the same reason as you - to take on holiday.
Where we do differ is I built mine exactly as per instructions - and yes that included using the hot glue gun and fixing the wing via the engine mount etc! Its had very many flights off water in the last year - well into the 100's now as I live close to a beach - and I've never had a single problem with it.
I would agree that BritFlight's construction methods are a little different - some might almost say eccentric - but I can testify to the fact that they do work. So perhaps its better not to be too hasty to condemn something you haven't actually tried .
You can find my thread on the H2O here
|laurent Muchacho||08/08/2011 13:31:45|
32 forum posts
The point here is to learn and discuss, what don't you agree with my point?
I'm happy to learn please can you describe what you mean.
I wrote this review because 1) I bought the plane 2) I've try to build it has close to the instruction manual and 3) I flown the plane shortly. Some of the building point do not make any sense with all modeller have shown the plane or explain the buidling process. I didn't intend to post a review until someone mentioned it to me that my point where valid.
You are a moderator then I guess that you are pretty well experienced builder and if you can fish in your memory about building the plane can you says this plane is for a beginner builder ? Also if I may ask do you think the horn on the rudder is at the right place ?
|Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator||08/08/2011 14:05:30|
15748 forum posts
Posting how you built the plane is fine - as you say that's what these build blogs are for - and I don't mean in anyway to discourage you from doing that. Its just that I felt you were a little critical of BritFlight's construction method but you hadn't actually tried it!
I just wanted to say that although some of their building methods may be unusual and unfamilar it is maybe unfair to critise them without finding out if they actually work. I think it is a bit harsh to imply that their way is "wrong" and even to call into doubt their ability as designers when you haven't actually tried it their way - that's all.
In the interests of balance I wanted to report that I did do it their way, even though like you I had real doubts about hot gluing servos in the tail fin etc. But I did do it that way and I can report it does work well and it does last.
Regarding the rudder horn - yes I do believe its in the right place - its in a damn awkward place that's true - but in my view it works well once you get it in!
On the interesting question is it suitable for beginers or inexperienced builders? Well actually yes I think it is. I don't think there was anything difficult in the build - indeed it might be the case that a new builder might find it easier than experienced people like you and I, afterall they don't realise that the build is a bit "different" as they have nothing to compare it to!
There is always room for different approaches. And many times, like most modellers, I change the way a plan/kit etc does something because I prefer a different way. And if I have tried their way and found it lacking then yes I can criticise. But I while I might change it I would hesistate to criticise a method I've never used just because it "seems wrong"!
Anyway - hope you enjoy flying the H2O - I've found it a joy to fly and very forgiving. Lots of fun.
|laurent Muchacho||08/08/2011 14:23:53|
32 forum posts
Fair point BEB. You are right I should have not be that critical about britflight construction method but simply says that is not the way I do things and I'm puzzled about this one particularly hence directing my comment toward being a bit over the top.
But has said above I think the HTWo-o is the best seaplane out there at the moment for the price.
|Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator||08/08/2011 14:46:38|
15748 forum posts
We can certianly agree on that!
|Bryce Allcorn - BritFlight.co.uk||10/08/2011 15:59:23|
241 forum posts
Laurent has just alerted me to this topic while placing an order for another HTWO-O.
I will take each of his points away and see if there are improvements that can be made to the model to make it more user friendly, it is the most "complicated" of the range thus far and I would be lying if I said no one has made comments/suggestions for improvements because they have, but there is a limited budget to work with because of the resale price. I'd love everything we make/resell/design to be perfect but that isn't always possible - same as I'd love my Land Rover to always work and my house never to need any work - they both cost a fair bit more!
Everyone is entitle to their own opinion, my only "gripe" would be that it is a good idea to approach a company and see what action they may take to assist prior to publicly slating them - if we get one thing right it is our customer service and had I known Laurent had had such a lot of trouble with his build I would have done something to help. I don't put "feedback is important so if you have any comments on your plane, positive and/or negative then we'd like to hear them" on every receipt just to waste printer ink - we do mean it!
Hopefully Laurent will be happier with his new HTWO-O and I will try to do something to make this new one more successful for him.
|laurent Muchacho||10/08/2011 16:46:54|
32 forum posts
Has Bryce mentioned I've ordered an other HTWO-O because it's nice plane, it fly really nice and it's cheap.
To explain a bit further why I had so much trouble simply because I was on holiday away from my loved workshop with everything I might have need (making precise zbend with a small plier is a bit of challenge) that's why I used control rod stopper. Other then this everything went together like on the instruction.
My post above was also cutted and the whole end is missing!
|David Ashby - Moderator||11/08/2011 10:34:18|
10895 forum posts
|No one 'cutted' your post Laurent - have another try..... |
Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 11/08/2011 10:34:34
|laurent Muchacho||11/08/2011 11:43:32|
32 forum posts
I think it might have been a bit too long in the review. But in a few word I'll write how I feel and the forum is like a big discussion I says what I think and happy to be challenged on my point of view.
In regards to the HTWO-O and his designer I will like to apologise in being a bit too french ranting away then the following point will short and brief.
For the new one I've ordered I will make the following mod. The page number after each point is related to the associated page in the building instruction of the original HTWO-O.
- use epoxy to fix the motor pylon (page 6)
- drill the hole to pass the motor cable behind the pylon instead of in front (page 7)
- use one more elastic band retainer(bamboo stick) at the front of the wing in addition to the one behind (page 9)
- use strong double sided tape to fix the servos to the fuse side (page 10)
- make the opening for the rudder control rod at the top instead of the side(page 11)
- use Linkage Stopper to secure the rudder control rod onto the servo arms(page12)
- put the rudder horn next to the hinge line (page 13)
- soften/sand the hard plastic at the trailing edge that cut the rubber band (page 17)
- Waterproof all the electronic with silicon sealant
Will post pix of the build when I get started on it.
Once again the HTWO-O is a brilliant plane and Bryce services is brilliant he even offered to solder things up and he was really good sorting out the delivery to france.
To all happy building and flying
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