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Top Flite Sea Fury Build

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easyjetrider23/09/2011 12:39:13
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Just wondering if anybody would be interested in a build blog of the TF Sea Fury?
 
It would be my first attempt at such a blog, and only my 2nd build (not counting several ARTFs) but I''m willing to give it a try if its of interest to anyone.
 
My first ''build'' was my beloved Chris Foss Acrowot, but this will be my first traditional built-up model and any tips, tricks and advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
I''ve already decided on and sourced my engine - an OS 91FX 2 Stroke. Similarly, I''ve decided on retracts (naturally) and have ordered some 1/2" Century Jet retracts from Fighteraces. I''ve also decided to go for full cockpit detail and to make the whole aircarft as scale as I can. I am intending to use glass cloth and paint to finish (colour scheme yet to be decided!)
 
So really, all that remains is to get cracking with the build.
Martyn K23/09/2011 14:33:31
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5074 forum posts
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Yep - go for it.. Always interested in reading about 'real builds'
 
Good luck
 
Martyn
Danny Fenton24/09/2011 08:49:28
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9465 forum posts
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I certainly would be interested to follow your build. If you need a cd full of detail pics drop me a pm
Cheers
Danny
easyjetrider24/09/2011 17:29:29
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35 forum posts
54 photos
Thanks guys.
 
Danny, the CD would be great. I'll let you know when I need it, thanks.
 
Well, I've started the build!
 
After checking all the contents of the box (overall, very pleased with the quality), I'm now half way through the Fin/Rudder assembly. So far so good. I needed to angle the openings on the ribs for the vertical main spar, but other than that it was like a simple jigsaw. I'm using for the most part white PVA glue, so the build will be slow!
 
To get the correct shape for the fin sheeting, I made a paper template (see photo) from a 1:1 copy of the plan. I then laid it on the balsa sheeting (made earlier) and deliberately cut the sheet slightly larger (5mm ish) than the template. The resulting 'overhang' will be trimmed later. I had trouble pinning the sheeting down at the leading edge, so decided to use medium CA just on the leading edge to 'grab' it, whilst the rest of the sheeting is glued using PVA.
 
So thats it for now.
 
easyjetrider25/09/2011 18:06:14
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35 forum posts
54 photos
Done a little more today.
 
I've cut and glued the left rudder sheeting, using the suggested balsa block as a guide at its trailing edge.
 
 
 
 

Turning the assembly over, I thought it might be a good idea to jump a few steps forward in the manual (whilst access is very easy) and glue in place the left side upper stabilser saddle (USS).

I then trimmed and sanded the sheeting in line with the USS and the lower main spar (LMS) as required.

Note that the manual calls for this procedure on page 13, item 14 after both sides are sheeted. However there is a mistake since it says stick the USS to the RUDDER sheeting and not FIN sheeting!
 
I've now sheeted the right side of the fin and waiting for it to dry! I'll be busy at work this coming week so not expecting to make much more progress!
 
 
Mystar30/09/2011 19:57:25
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64 forum posts
10 photos
It is amazing, i have been trawling the web trying to find some one who has recently built a Seafury and here you are. I am a little further ahead than you. I have completed the fin and stab. i am currently working on the centre wing section which is nearly complete. I have also purchased the CJ scale retracts from fighteraces. i am planning to put a Saito 115 in mine.
easyjetrider03/10/2011 15:55:14
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35 forum posts
54 photos
That's great Mystar. How have you found the build so far?
 
Be sure to let us know of any pitfalls or suggestions and recommendations you have along the way.
 
More on my build shortly!
easyjetrider03/10/2011 16:04:47
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35 forum posts
54 photos
Despite work getting in the way, i've managed to make a little more progress - in fact the fin and rudder are almost completed!
 
No real problems or snags yet, however I think my estimation made a few posts back, about being half way through building the fin and rudder, was a little optimistic! The actual putting together and glueing the parts doesn't take long, but the shaping and sanding does. Particularly, when you are trying to be careful not to damage the 1/16" sheeting! There is a fair amount of material that has to come off and I recommend using masking tape, as the instructions suggest to protect the sheeting.
 
In addition to a razor saw and razor plane, i've invested in a permi-grit sanding bar, which I would not be without now!
 
Here are a few photos of my progress:


I've got to the stage of hinging now, but wondering whether to leave doing the hinging slots until I've glassed the components - any suggestions?
Myron Beaumont03/10/2011 17:00:44
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5797 forum posts
51 photos
Easyjetrider
Looks one hell of a lot like my TF Spit construction- wise .Like you say,lots of sanding using Mk 1 eyeball .Don't you just love it ! Great build .Good luck & keep it up .
Mystar03/10/2011 18:39:44
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64 forum posts
10 photos
i would hinge the rudder now, it should be fairly easy to cut through the glass cloth, you should still be able to see the slots. I use permagrit tools as well, i have the short and long duel grit bars plus the needle files. You said in your earlier posts that you were using PVA , I wouldn't for two reasons. 1. when dry it is very brittle, 2. all the other advice i had been given i was told what ever you do you need to build lite. For all of the construction on mine so far i have used Cyno on all of the frame work, 1 hour epoxy on the retract bearers and wing dowl seats and alphetic resin on the sheeting.
easyjetrider08/10/2011 14:20:56
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35 forum posts
54 photos
Myron, its good to know the build of your Spit looks similar - it'll mean less head scratching on my next project!
 
Mystar, thanks for the advice on the the glue - I'll have a re-think!
 
The build continues. I've now gone ahead and cut the hinge slots in the fin TE and rudder LE. After carefully marking and matching the positons for the hinges, I just used my swann morton scalpel to cut the slots - it seems to have worked OK.
I'm glad I chose to follow the instructions and cut that slots at this stage. I was thinking of cutting the slots after glassing. If I had done this, I would have had to cut the slots into the apex of the "V" shaped rudder leading edge - not ideal!!. The other beneift to getting the hinges done at this stage, is being able to mount the rudder to the fin and then reconfirming exactly where the counter balance needs to be positioned on the rudder.
 
I had to be a little careful, and nearly got caught out, when razor planing the "V" on the rudder LE. Because of the taper from base to tip, the angle of the "V" changes from shallow at the base to steeper near the tip. I realised quite early on in the process and so no unwanted removal took place!
 
The rudder LE was notched (I just used a flat file) to accommodate the counter balance. Once glued on, I sanded it in line with the rudder - again protecting the rudder sheeting with masking tape. 'Rounding ' the corners of the counter balance was easier enough, but just had to keep offereing the rudder up to the fin to see if I'd done enough to prevent fowling.
 
After a bit of light weight balsa filler and final sanding, the rudder and fin are now complete! - Stabiliser next!
 




David Ashby - Moderator11/10/2011 06:27:27
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Looking good EJR. I've found a copy of Model Airplane News from Nov 2003 with their review of this kit. You're very welcome to it - just PM me your address.
 
 
 
 
 
 
GrumpyGnome11/10/2011 12:22:18
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528 forum posts
145 photos
Re Glue ..............
 
I always thought PVA was less brittle than Cyano ?
 
GG
Danny Fenton11/10/2011 14:14:27
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9465 forum posts
4281 photos
Looking great there EJR, I will second Mystars glue selections, epoxy, CA, and Aliphatic
Cheers
Danny
easyjetrider11/10/2011 15:27:49
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35 forum posts
54 photos
Thanks chaps for the encouragement and support.
 
I'm just off to the shops to get some of this Aliphatic resin stuff - in fact the instructions do recommend it for the sheeting - so I suppose I ought to give it a try!
Glenn Philbrick11/10/2011 18:09:41
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230 forum posts
65 photos
I built one of these some years ago, and have flown it for many years, unfortunately it met its end only this year when the engine stopped downwind and it turned into a brick. A glider this model certainly is not. Make sure that you build the back end as light as possible otherwise you will need a church roof to balance the model, I even had to make a brass weight that fitted on the engine so as to get as much weight forward as possible. Other than that is is a good build and the finished model flies very well. There used to be a lot of discusion on RCScalebuilders.com about this kit have a look there and you will see some fantastic finishes.
 
Good Luck
 
Glenn
Martyn K11/10/2011 23:22:08
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5074 forum posts
3678 photos
Posted by GrumpyGnome on 11/10/2011 12:22:18:
Re Glue ..............
 
I always thought PVA was less brittle than Cyano ?
 
GG
 
Ditto, I have been using PVA (Evo Resin W) since I was 15 (40 years ago), I find it very reliable, and always stronger than balsa or spruce and quite flexible (I have never had a brittle fracture failure). The only downside is that if you use it for err 'filling' then it can be a nightmare to sand without leaving a ridge. You can water it down (25% water) to keep the weight down (the water evaporates) and help if flow when needed.
 
I only use cyno for building when sheet comes adrift from stringers etc - it is very useful for that otherwise its epoxy where strength and fuel proofing is required.
 
Apart from that, I am enjoying the build, looking forward to the next instalment.
 
Martyn
 
easyjetrider12/10/2011 13:13:01
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35 forum posts
54 photos
Thanks for the advice guys - Glenn, sorry to hear about your Sea Fury - will you be making another?
 
Regarding the glue. My limited experience of using white PVA glue has been very favourable. It's very strong, but as you say Martyn, it can be a little difficult to sand. It also takes long to set! Regarding CA, I'd also heard it was more brittle than PVA and even harder to sand, but its good 'grab' quality and setting speed does have its advantages. Epoxy is just the best when ultimate strength is required!
 
Having looked into this Aliphatic resin (and bought some), essentially its PVA glue with added benefits - better grab qualities, faster setting and easier to sand - brilliant!
 
So in summary, I'm now using Aliphatic resin for the most part of the build. CA for tacking sheeting down - when needs be. And epoxy for structural strength - dihedral braces, undercarriage supports etc etc (also fuel proofing).
 
Again, thanks for all your comments - keep them coming!
Myron Beaumont12/10/2011 14:15:39
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5797 forum posts
51 photos
Would someone please explain how you are supposed "to build the back end light" (commonly used phraseology) when all you have is the wood ,the plan & the design provided in the kit ? Just what can you skimp on?

Edited By Myron Beaumont on 12/10/2011 14:17:52

easyjetrider12/10/2011 14:24:38
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35 forum posts
54 photos
I've often asked the same question myself - you hear it said all of the time dont you!
 
As far as my build is concerned, I'm simply building it as per the plan using the wood supplied.
 
I suppose you could ' go easy' on the glue, but I'm sure that would only save micrograms. The only other suggestion I've read, was to use thinner sheeting - particularly if you intend to glass cloth to finish.
 
It would be nice to hear other suggestions.

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