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Boeing B52 PSS Glider

BUFF is one of my winter projects

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Tim Mackey16/01/2012 21:49:25
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The quality is superb. The quality of foam is also top dollar, tight closed dense cells, and the veneer ( I went for Obechi ) is just so smooth its almost a shame to cover them !
They just feel so tight and, well, lovely is the only way to describe them.
The main spar is oval carbon fibre tube - just visible at the root. The round hole next to it is also CF and takes the small solid CF incidence rod, pictured along with the steel blade joiner. The joiner fits into a brass socket, set into hardwood boxing. The spar connects with the joiner assembly at its root, and the other end of the spar has a FG "sandwich" to spread the end loads. Barry also cut me a wiring run down the length of the wing...close to the blade box - just visible in the picture. I shall decide on servo positioning and then cut the boxes for these myself.
Barry was quite happy to do this, and cut out the control surfaces and face it all off etc - but I was trying to keep the cost down a bit!
There is also a 50mm wide strip of FG under the veneer at the T/E- as its very thin here, so after I cut out the control surfaces, they will be pretty well all glass reinforced. The whole lot was very well packed, and arrived by courier.
They cost a little over £200 a set -delivered - which considering the work involved, and the final result achieved I think is VFM.
I know I could never dream of coming even close to that standard.
I'm well pleased.



 
Phil Cooke16/01/2012 22:40:50
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yeah very nice Tim - they look the business! Like you said before, the most important part of the machine to get right, and no end of hours for you or I beavering away in our garages would get this finish in either the foam or the veneer - I for one simply couldnt do the vac bagging or epoxy layup like this, I dont have the skills or the kit needed on this scale - theres a lot of work gone into those wings - right down to the beautifully finished profile on the 9ft long LE - so it is good value when you consider that in manhours alone - thats the philosophy I have on the A-10 panels anyway.
 
How far towards the tip does the oval carbon spar reach?

Edited By Phil Cooke on 16/01/2012 22:42:40

Tim Mackey16/01/2012 23:18:05
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The spar is i metre long in each panel. I didnt specify the length, but Barry suggested that this would be fine with a good mix of both strength, and lightness, so I went with his recommendation.
Here's an image of the original drawing that Scott sent to Barry, and mine are the same sans servo wells etc.

Tim Mackey17/01/2012 11:17:17
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The whistles have arrirved - and they look fine. I ordered 8, ....Im probably going to end up fitting four to each of the B52s.
They are made from a black rubbery lightweight moulding, and the instructions suggest exactly where and how to mount them for maximum effect.
I will be fitting one on a simple foamy wing tomorrow, and trying it out on the Orme on Thursday.

Ian Jones17/01/2012 11:29:03
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Posted by Tim Mackey on 17/01/2012 11:17:17:
The whistles have arrirved - and they look fine. I ordered 8, ....Im probably going to end up fitting four to each of the B52s.
They are made from a black rubbery lightweight moulding, and the instructions suggest exactly where and how to mount them for maximum effect.
I will be fitting one on a simple foamy wing tomorrow, and trying it out on the Orme on Thursday.

How did you go on re the P&P problem Tim - ordered by email?

Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator17/01/2012 11:33:21
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Looks very smart Tim - beautiful workmanship and as you say - considering both the size and the amount of effort involved - good value for money I agree.
 
Whistles eh? - you'll be fitting bells next!
 
BEB
 
PS Does this mean you will flying "in the BUFF" this summer?
Olly P17/01/2012 11:51:54
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As long as he does't pile the buff in....
Tim Mackey17/01/2012 12:03:34
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Steady chaps, I couldnt possibly fly in the BUFF, the ladies would all faint with shock and awe LOL.
 
Ian, a couple of emails exchanged between us had the post and packing issue resolved, basically he only really supplies the whistles to people who buy his kits as he incurred considerable expense in making the moulds etc, and feels a little aggrieved when peeps try to buy loads of them to either sell on, or fit to other ARTFs and so on.
Matt Jones17/01/2012 12:12:03
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Let me know how they go, I can see a bulk order coming too for my PSS stuff
Foamie Dave20/01/2012 16:38:06
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I dunno how I missed this thread - Cracking job Timbo mate, gonna be glued to this one !
 
PS must admit the Hefner-esque smoking jacket sets the bar in modelling attire ..always said you had class
Tim Mackey20/01/2012 16:54:23
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Ha ha.... very good Dave, welcome on board by the way, I trust I can rely on you to point out my mistakes as I go - seriously, any tips are appreciated.
First off, the old grey whistle test. It didnt work - not a peep, and the wind was 50+ on the slope yesterday, so PLENTY of speed.
I can only assume I have it mounted in the wrong place, as there's nothing mechanically to go wrong. The instruction leaflet suggests where to mount it, but the text is based on a built up construction, mentioning spars, and tip..no use at all for a foam model.To further muddy the waters, the only picture shown is of a spitfire wing, and the text mentions - the spitfire is different and the whistle should be mounted as shown - fat lot of use if its not a spitfire your fitting it to...and why would you anyway ?? Final paragraph says words to the effect of " if it doesnt work, try moving it". A great help - especially if you have already carved a big hole in your lovely expensive wing. I'll keep experimenting on the WT.
Tim Mackey20/01/2012 17:08:32
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Today has been spent on the rear end again. Control horn bolts fitted after reinforcing ply plates were let into the elevators. Hinges glued and pinned in place.

 
Some final fettling of the fit of the two lateral halves, and everything plumbed up true with spirit levels after ensuring work surface was also flat and level.


 
Two halves then glued and strapped to dry.

 
Front and rear faces flattened off ready for mating to the front section later.

 
 
Carbon spar holes in the fus sides adjusted slightly to ensure tailplanes sit level and even, and similar adjustments to fin. Top surface of the fus flattened off to make a better fit for the flat root section of the fin. Servo leads extended, and fin finally glued in place with Gorilla glue to help expand and fill any gaps.

The fin spars extend right down to the fus floor, and have a big dollop of gorilla glue to anchor them to help rigidity. The alignment was double checked, and masking tape straps used to hold it all straight whilst the glue gets to work.
 
Once its dried overnight, any remaining gap around the root will be filled and filleted with epoxy, blending into the profile Then its onto the tailplanes with similar procedure...ensuring of course they are square to the fin. Then a little bit of filling if necessary, followed by a few more coats of Poly-C over everything, with a final sanding down with 600 grade paper. The rear open section of fus will be filled with a scrap piece of foam, PU'd into place.
This will then have CF rods and magnets fitted for attaching the rear, detachable, gunnery unit.

Edited By Tim Mackey on 20/01/2012 19:40:52

Matt Jones20/01/2012 19:51:50
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Looking good Tim, rapid progress
Tim Mackey21/01/2012 00:00:01
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Thanks Matt, not exactly known for my rapid building
David Gilder21/01/2012 00:11:45
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Gotta love that posting time Tim!!!
 
1 second past midnight... Clearly the 1st posting of the day!!!!
 
Build seems to be coming on very nicely..
 
I'm just pondering how i will attatch my wings on the AN72. Thinking about carbon tubes like on the Extras and Yaks.... Then each wing slides on... would make for easier transport in my "small" car and for storage at home!!
 
Tim Mackey21/01/2012 08:53:59
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Should work I guess, you will obviously need to fit a reinforcing layer around the foam where they pass through the fus, but shouldn't be too difficult. The buff simply has a small steel blade as a wing joiner, and a dowel arrangement that pegs into a ply former at the front of the wing seat, and then a nylon wing bolt passes through each panel at the rear into another ply plate that straddles the fus. I was going to do the fuselage in two sections for transportation reasons, but have decided to go the roof bars route....with an 8" drainpipe strapped to it, and the buff will slide into it.
Now, should I arrnge to have a slot in it, and leave the wings on - that would get the tourists talking as drove along the promenade
Tim Mackey21/01/2012 19:30:20
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Did a horrible bit of the job today - I say horrible cos I always fret about this type of stage.
Gluing the tailplane halves on. Dunno about others, but I always get nervous at this stage, as I cant abide the thought that things are not going to end up square and true - and once they are glued on they aint ( hopefully ) budging again!
Apologies if these jobs are teaching grannie to suck eggs, but I happen to know that my mate Zaidy - who is also doing the same model -is watching along at every stage, and as this is his very first build of a model ( brave or what ! ) he wants all the help he can get.
Luckily he lives close by so also makes frequent visits. Anyway, I ramble....
I made up a rough and ready looking Jig affair from foam and wedges etc.
After checkimng with spirit levels that the table itself was level in both axis, I then jacked the fus up level also - just to help me get my eye in from the side view. Next, the fus was jiggled and squiggled around to get the previously fitted fin dead upright.
The datum line was marked on each side, and the tailplanes dry fitted with their CF spars to check alignment. Two level equipped squares were then set at the same distance in from the tips, and the height of each tailplane was adjusted ( by elongating the spar holes slightly ) up and down until both tips were at the exact same height of the flat + level working surface.
The tails were removed, masking tape applied around the gluing areas, and the fuselage sidewalls were roughed up to provide a good key.
Gorilla glue applied to spars and root surfaces, and the whole lot refitted, checking and double checking the alignments as i went. A line and strong rubber band was put across the section attached to two large screws at the edges of the tips, to keep them pulled in against the expanding glue. masking tape at the L/E does a similar job. Eying it all up from all angles shows a pretty reasonable result..... and then the main wing fitting - when I get to that stage - will be alligned to the tail IYSWIM.



Phew.... Im glad that bits over - just gotta hope that it stays true as it cures.
Phil Cooke21/01/2012 20:11:48
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Measure, check, measure again!! Looks like a good job done to me Tim, and a good description of your method too.
Stephen Grigg21/01/2012 20:13:21
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Looks like one side isnt quite as high as the other Timbo (,ITS A JOKE )fantastic build mate
Foamie Dave23/01/2012 18:18:01
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First the smoking jacket, then set squares and spirit levels, this is one serious build fella!
 
Keep up the good work Timbo..da boyz are watching


 

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