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Workbench surface to take pins?

what would you use on top of a building bench to hold pins?

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smartie4913/01/2012 20:37:03
19 forum posts
1 photos
Hi all,As a reborn modeller I remember my early days in the 60's when I built my first KK Pixie rubber band doped red,(how can I remember that)I used to use a army MFO box lid(wood)covered in lino flooring. OK on smaller jobs.Now I am setting up a new bench covered top MDF and maybe some fooring vinyl to cover.
Has anyone any other ideas that would be better to hold pins in.
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator13/01/2012 20:59:30
15748 forum posts
1460 photos
I use a double thickness of cork tiles glued to the MDF. Works very well indeed.
Sheets of plasterboard are also popular - but personally I've not tried it.
Steve W-O13/01/2012 21:00:42
2775 forum posts
310 photos
Tempted to answer the title and say a pincushion.
Notice board or cork are the nicest to use
Myron Beaumont13/01/2012 21:35:11
5797 forum posts
51 photos
Pincushion? Just use a lump of foam with a weight on the bottom .For more details ask Timbo ..Probably won't meet my 5000 target now

Edited By Myron Beaumont on 13/01/2012 21:36:03

Edited By Myron Beaumont on 13/01/2012 21:37:46

Rob14/01/2012 07:35:25
235 forum posts
Plasterboard is what I have on my bench, cheap and replaceable, I tend to cover the cut edges with masking tape to stop the plaster from marking clothing etc.
Phil 914/01/2012 07:40:22
4287 forum posts
256 photos
2nd vote for plasterboard it works really well
Vecchio Austriaco14/01/2012 08:00:16
1498 forum posts
707 photos
Sundeala or light ply work well for pins.
Lightply is pretty expensive here in the AAA country - I have my supplys still from the BBB+ area Italy.... There it is the standard ply in the DIY markets and therefore costs a fraction.
cheers VA
Terry Walters14/01/2012 08:01:33
1829 forum posts
1068 photos
New convert to plaster board - cheap, very flat and easy to pin - go for it!
There's no going back!
Alan Cantwell14/01/2012 09:55:09
3039 forum posts
no fuss, no gluing, no replacing, 5/8ths blockboard, select a true piece, stays true for ever, my present board is on its 3rd house!! but whatever you use, heres a tip, decide the size of plane you will be building, and get one thats big enough for the biggest piece and space for a brew, mine is 8footx4foot, and i think 1square foot of that is usable
00114/01/2012 10:10:25
2212 forum posts
1 photos
Sundeala board glued to MDF. Then screwed to battens to hold it flat, Sundeala board is sold by model railway dealers for track baseboard.
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator14/01/2012 10:39:35
15748 forum posts
1460 photos
Sundeala is very good - I was a railway modeller in a previous life - still am but planes take up all the time! - so I've used it a lot for baseboards etc. One problem is, it isn't cheap if you want a fair size board and as Chris says it needs to be fixed to something flat - because it will bend very easy.
Another potential problem I would have thought is that Sundeala is relatively hard (compared to cork and plasterboard) and pins would take a bit more "push" - but they'd stay in well though!
I must try plaster board at some point - but at present I'm happy with the cork and its fairly durable so lasts for a while. I'd agree with Alan - but don't just think "biggest plane" think "biggest board you can fit in"! Its amazing how you use up the space! And if your model is a bit smaller, a larger board lets you do things like build two (or in my case with bipes possibly four!) smaller wings at the same time!

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 14/01/2012 10:40:44

smartie4914/01/2012 16:08:48
19 forum posts
1 photos
Thanks all for the good advice. Plasterboard go's to powder, I think I feel happy with cork and 6'x4' size bench looks good for the room in the garage.
kc14/01/2012 17:56:50
6508 forum posts
173 photos
Try plasterboard for just the building board not the whole benchtop. Get a large piece for wings and several smaller for tailplanes & fin. Then move them to one side & building can continue on other parts whilst glue dries. It is common to see plasterbooard offcuts big enough for anything aeromodelling in builders if you ask. Just make sure it is flat to start with. Cut to size with a Stanley knife by scoring and snapping off over a batten.
I doubt you can get a whole benchtop flat enough for wing building without lots of effort. And it may change if the floor is not level or the frame warps. Seperate building boards are the answer.
smartie4909/04/2012 12:51:07
19 forum posts
1 photos

Hi, back again after all the info got three build areas.A 1200x900 ex beakfast bar,and two 900x600 boards all covered with PLASTERBOARD Yes thanks for the help to YOU ALL!! and a long bench with A band saw and vice.Mind its still a bit of a cuddle with the MG but I push it out for more room.


Any way thanks for the help.I'll be back!smiley

leccyflyer09/04/2012 12:57:59
1474 forum posts
324 photos

Sundeala board is my preferred option - better than cork tiles or hardboard orpolystyrene tiles or wallboard IMO. Check with a local timber merchant/building suppliers - oh and it;s fairly unstable if not securely fitted to a warp-free ridig base. Blockboard is a good option for that base.

Alex Whittaker09/04/2012 15:08:15
55 forum posts
1 photos
7 articles

It sounds a bit odd, but for an experiment, why not go pin-less? For my last few home-brew models I have discarded the pins altogether, and taped the wing components to a flat ply bench-topper with car-shop masking tape. Especially handy with spruce spars. All the wings have come out square and true. Mind you, I have not yet tried this workaround with a published plan, since I usually work directly on the bench topper. The bench topper is just a handy plywood offcut that can be put to one side temporarily if you need the bench empty for a quick repair, or another project. Since I can't trust myself to build square unaided, I tend to make up my fuselages in a cheap n' cheerful SLEC Building Jig, which I also use pin-less, Just a thort, chaps.

Alex Whittaker

StarLoc FiveStar Adhesives09/04/2012 15:38:17
165 forum posts
3 photos

Ive built some models recently with no pins, just thin cyano , sometimes i CA the spars to the plan in a few places first to stop them moving round

When i use pins , Most models i build are small , i use the cork faced notice board from tescos, about £2 , works fine , for larger models i use a piece of the very hard blue foam `floormate` by dow , its straight to the eye but i glued it down to blockboard to make sure

Edited By StarLoc FiveStar Adhesives on 09/04/2012 15:38:44

Edited By StarLoc FiveStar Adhesives on 09/04/2012 15:38:54

Chris Bott - Moderator09/04/2012 15:50:45
6830 forum posts
1429 photos
1 articles

Recently started using plasterboard and was surprised at just how well it takes and holds pins. I think I expected it to be as tough as pushing a pin into a plastered wall, but it's nothing like that.

Danny Fenton09/04/2012 15:50:54
9625 forum posts
4449 photos

The guys in the States swear by building on glass, using CA to hold the parts down. The parts pop off easily apparently. The glass needs to be fairly thick but does mean you can slide the plan underneath. You have to be careful when positioning as you don't want to make a parralax error, and always sight verticelly down onto the plan.

Some others are building on Steel, and using magnetic posts and brackets to hold the parts in place, quite pricey but sounds good.

I personally build on a thick sheet of MDF faced with green flooring underlay. Takes pins really well. But if I come across a nice thick sheet of glass i would like to give that a go smile p



Andrew76709/04/2012 17:16:58
809 forum posts
4 photos

Another one for Sundeala.....But choose the right grade...comes as A or K...K is the one you want,A is very very hard .


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