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Taboo

builders thread....

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Paul Adams16/01/2012 18:56:05
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I opened the Feb addition of the mag tonight on the Taboo page, and its now on my build list. Looking at the plan however it has a curved 1.5mm thick spruce spar which tapers from 6mm down to 3 mm at the wing tip. I have tried to curve the spruce as required, but can not get it to curve without twisting. Any one any ideas on how to get it to curve? steam? heat?

Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 17/01/2012 08:18:52

Mike Freeman16/01/2012 20:04:51
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Thanks for the interest in Taboo. I was out flying the original yesterday. Still going strong and enjoyable to fly, even in the cold weather!
 
The spars are glued to the TE of the LE sheets before building into the wing. They are tapered as the curve is worst at the tips and the thinner wood is easier to bend. I soaked mine in water overnight and after drying off the bulk of the water I used the curved piece of the LE off cut as a former and taped the spruce to it then weighed it down until dry. It will try to bend at 90 degrees to the way you want it to go but masking tape and a bit of perseverance will hold it in place and the weight on a flat surface stops it from warping. I think I did two at a time. When you take the tape off the spruce will spring back slightly but will be half way there! When you glue the spar to the LE sheet you will need to weigh it down again to keep it flat.
 
A bit of hassle but I think the curved spar looks so much better than the easier straight spar would look. Obviously straight spars could be used if preferred.
 
Cheers

Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 17/01/2012 08:19:13

Paul Adams16/01/2012 21:24:12
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Thanks Mike. Did you do a build blog on her at all? (I did an Intranet search on Taboo and it brought up some very strange sites!!!!!)
 
Will try the method you describe to bend the spruce. Looking forward to building and flying her, she has some very graceful lines. I particularly like the way you have done the nose cowl with the air vents, very clever idea.
 
What servo's did you use, and where did you mount the elevator servo? I assume under the canopy, is this correct?
 
When I get some pictures I will send them on.
 
Regards Paul
 
 

Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 17/01/2012 08:19:27

Mike Freeman16/01/2012 21:52:35
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Graham, David and the team did a great job on the article for my Taboo design. Thanks everyone! I tried to cover all bases in the text but I have already recieved one question on the construction. It occured to me the rather unothodox construction may raise other questions so I thought it might help if I started this thread to answer any questions prospective builders may have. It may take a couple of days for me to answer but answer I will!
 
Thanks for your interest in my little model.
Mike Freeman16/01/2012 22:02:57
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The first question was from Paul Adams who asked how the spars are bent to the curve shape. Here is my reply........
 
The spars are glued to the TE of the LE sheets before building into the wing. They are tapered as the curve is worst at the tips and the thinner wood is easier to bend. I soaked mine in water overnight and after drying off the bulk of the water I used the curved piece of the LE off cut as a former and taped the spruce to it then weighed it down until dry. It will try to bend at 90 degrees to the way you want it to go but masking tape and a bit of perseverance will hold it in place and the weight on a flat surface stops it from warping. I think I did two at a time. When you take the tape off the spruce will spring back slightly but will be half way there! When you glue the spar to the LE sheet you will need to weigh it down again to keep it flat.
A bit of hassle but I think the curved spar looks so much better than the easier straight spar would look. Obviously straight spars could be used if preferred.
 
If I think of any other info that will help I'll add it to this thread.
 
Cheers
Mike Freeman16/01/2012 22:16:13
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Thanks Paul,
 
I'm really pleased with the way the fuz turned out. People think it is made of fibre glass until I show them the insides. It's amazing what you can do with a bit of balsa, ply and Profilm!!
 
I used HS55 servos all round except the elevator one which is the overpriced multiplex version of the same servo! The elevator servo goes in the radio bay behind F3 which is accessed from under the wing. The receiver goes in this bay too.
 
I'd love to see photos of other Taboo's - thanks for the offer.
 
Your question got me thinking that there may be other questions so I have started a thread in the "RCM&E plan builders" section to answer any future questions. I have transferred your question and my answer there.
 
Cheers,
 
Mike

Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 17/01/2012 08:19:51

Mike Freeman16/01/2012 23:20:19
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I thought a bit more info on the construction of F1 might help so here goes...
 
 
The components laid out ready to start
 

The end of the 10mm wrap
 

The 20mm wrap in progress. Note the spacers for the air intakes
 

3mm carbon fibre peg reinforcements top and bottom
 

The ply part ready for the motor mount to be glued in. Note the recess to allow space for the motor wires.
 
More photos in the next post.
Mike Freeman16/01/2012 23:33:16
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81 photos

The nose ready to receive the complete F1 assembly
 

I made a jig to hold F1 at the correct thrust angles while gluing in place. Simply prop up the tail to give a zero wing angle of attack and cut some balsa sheet to the correct angles to make the jig. bolt F1 onto it and glue F1 in place. If this is too much trouble and you glue F1 by eye the side thrust isn't as critical as the down thrust
 

Spinner ring fitted and air intakes sanded.......... easy!!
 
Cheers,
 
Mike
David Ashby - Moderator17/01/2012 08:18:22
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Hi Mike and welcome, I'm sure Taboo builders will find that very useful.
I've just combined the other existing thread with this.......
Tim Hooper17/01/2012 13:32:15
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2917 forum posts
2414 photos
Mike,
 
What a lovely looking aeroplane! Looks fast and sleek, just sat on the deck.
 
I particularly like the motor mount/side vents unit - very innovative, and well worth pinching....
 
tim
Danny Fenton17/01/2012 16:07:01
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9789 forum posts
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Lovely looking model Mike, and I am with Tim that front end is very neat indeed
Cheers
Danny
Mike Freeman18/01/2012 19:05:47
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Thanks for your kind comments Tim and Danny.
 
The double intake nose is a variation on a single intake version I first used on a model called enVee which was published in another magazine a few years. I'm really pleased with how the Taboo one worked out. Alright, there is a bit more work involved with the reinforcing pegs and the fiddle of forming two intakes but it is worth it! I was so pleased with Taboo I felt it may be worthy of offering up to the No. 1 RC magazine for publication....... and here we are
 
Tim - it is pretty quick in the air as well, when required.  I love doing flat out figure of eights at low level over the patch (when the coast is clear!).  It looks great in a high speed banking turn.  Mind you, it'll fly slow as well - I was doing high alpha fly pasts upright and inverted last weekend at really low speed.  No hint of a tip stall which surprised me with such a small tip chord and no washout!
 
Cheers,
Mike

Edited By Mike Freeman 1 on 18/01/2012 19:18:28

Terence Lynock24/01/2012 21:53:23
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2453 forum posts
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Curving any wood is easy if you use steam, get a piece of old 2'' sink drainage pipe and bung one end up, drill a 1'4'' hole in this end at the bottom for a drain for condensed water.
Now make a cap for the other end with a pipe that will be the steam inlet, to maintain temperature you can lag the pipe if you like, you can use a wallpaper stripper for a steam supply or even the kettle if it has a proper spout you can fit the pipe to.Some method of keeping the wood strip up off the bottom of the pipe is needed.
Lay the pipe almost flat (slightly higher at the steam entry end) and slide your wood strip into the pipe and fit the end cap, connect to steam supply and leave for about an hour making sure steam is being generated and it is passing into the pipe, you can tell by the amount of condensed w2ater being blown out of the vent.
After an hour os so remove the steam supply to a safe distance and remove the end cap, all this is going to be very hot so take care, remove your wood and bend it straight away to the desired curve and fix in place until cold and dry.
This is how I bent timbers for many model ships over the years, on a far bigger scale its how they bent timbers of 18'' wide and 6'' thick when building ships like Victory and her sisters,
graham kindberg131/01/2012 05:09:41
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129 forum posts
OK........cnc kit due when? ( about as subtle as i can get)
Graham
Steve Barton25/03/2012 06:36:24
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20 forum posts
20 photos

Hi Mike,

I really like the appearance and size of Taboo. It reminds of a plane called Dollar which had a very long life with a friend before he gave it to me ......

I am going over the plan of Taboo to fit it together in my mind and would appreciate your help/guidance

1. it looks like the ribs need to be recessed to accommodate the spars?

2. to get the right shape/profile of the webs between the spars did you use the plan measurements rib height less spar or just put them in place, measure and cut ?

3. can I cut the top and bottom sheets to the size on the plan or should I adjust for the curvature over the ribs and make the sheet a little bigger/wider ?

( I assume there should be a top spar shown on the plan between ribs 4 and 5 )

I would really appreciate to see more photos of the build you may have especially of the wing section

many thanks, Steve

Steve Barton25/03/2012 06:58:33
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20 photos

Hi Mike,

I think I am getting closer to understanding my problem

In the middle on the left of the plan, R1 shows the spar glued to the edge of the top sheet , not recessed into the rib and also in line with the cap strip but on the bottom of the plan in the wing drawing the spar looks like it is under the top sheet ? On page 69, the colourful drawing shows the spar recessed into the rib and under the top sheet.

thanks for your help, regards, Steve

Mike Freeman26/03/2012 21:08:30
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89 forum posts
81 photos

Hi Steve,

Sorry for the delay in replying - been away for the weekend!

Thanks for the interest in my little model. To answer your questions......

1. The spars are glued onto the rear of the top and bottom sheeting not recessed into the ribs top and bottom. This makes the ribs easier to cut out and also makes the webs slightly deeper for additional strength.

2. The ribs are at right angles to the bottom sheet. I cut a long strip of balse to the width of the gap between ribs. Glue the first rib onto the bottom sheet, offer up the strip and mark off the height of web against the rib. Cut the web off at right angles and glue in place with the next rib glued onto the other side. And so on to the tip. You will end up with steps in the webs from root to tip. These are easily sanded flush with the ribs ready for the top sheeting.

3. You can cut the top and bottom sheets as the plan.

4. The spars run from root to tip and taper at the tip to make the bending easier.

I hope that all helps. I'll have a look to see if I have any other photos to show the above. If I find any I'll post them here.

Cheers,

Mike

Haimi Bosch30/03/2012 03:44:20
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10 forum posts

Hi all im currently building Taboo the pro plan model featured in Febuary 2012. I need help with choosing a motor because i dont know much about brushless so what would a suitable kv rating be?

 

Cheers Haimi

Edited By David Ashby on 31/03/2012 14:55:31

Olly P30/03/2012 08:41:29
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3215 forum posts
181 photos

I did read the article, but can't remember the AUW, depending on this we will be able to guide you on motor, prop, ESC and battery selection.

So information which will help us to help you:

Expected all up weight - built covered controls installed etc.

What kind of performance you want/expect - Park fly, 3D, sports

Do you have any batteries already which you wish to use, if so what are they

ground clearance - I can't remember the taboo specifically but how much room is there for a prop to swing in!

Thanks

 

Olly

Edited By David Ashby on 31/03/2012 14:55:45

Haimi Bosch30/03/2012 11:48:17
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10 forum posts

Its a 47" w/s, 33" lenght and has 310 sq. in. wing area

I dont have the batteries yet i'll probably use a 3s 2100mAh

The AUW is 750g (26.5oz) Im aiming for about 680g though, looking for a Parkfly / Sport.

It doesn't have any landing gear but uses a 10 x 6" folding prop, I could fit some landind gear.

I already have an emax cf2822 1200kv outrunner.

Sorry I should've added the info i didn't think of that.

Thanks Olly P

Haimi

Edited By David Ashby on 31/03/2012 14:56:00

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