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DIY Decals?

DIY Decals?

Big Bandit shows how! - 18/5/12

Big Bandit12/05/2012 01:22:59
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2436 forum posts
947 photos

Hi All,

Following on from the Matador build it's been suggested that I may want to do a quick tread on producing waterslide transfers, and to be honest it's so simple to do using a purpose made paper from a company called Crafty computer paper. I first heard about the stuff on this Older thread where it was discussed, so when I needed some transfers for the Matty I decided to give it a try. The link to the company and prices are here.

The paper that I used is the clear water slide decal paper.

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First off I've downloaded a few vintage logo's from the Internet into a folder and used some of those.

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Copy and paste into a word document in my case, and size to requirement. I did a matrix of logo's to start with.

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Next was to select some text for the fuselage sides, for this I used the nearest typeface I could find in word, to the pici of the Matty in an old KK handbook. Then add those to the page, and again size to requirement.

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Then a few more appropriate logo's to use up as much of the page as possible. Size as before then print a proof page on ordinary printer paper.

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The proof print.

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When I was happy with it I just printed it again onto the Crafty computer paper. It's like using standard glossy photo paper.

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It was left to dry for an hour on the key board while I had a sarnny and coffee.

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Next up it was down the shed for a couple of coats of lacquer, two or three fine coats are better then one thick coat. leave it between 10 and 15 minutes before re-coating. It does say in the instructions for the lacquer I used do not re-coat after two hours.

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using this stuff, which is from the same company as the paper.

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I then leave it to dry over night. So here's one I did earlier.

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For anyone who hasn't used waterslide transfers before, and I doubt there are many. Trim any excess paper from around the image, then drop it in lukewarm water for 30 seconds.

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After taking it out of the water gently start to slide the transfer from the backing paper, and leave a small tab. Apply the tab to the surface of the surface of the item, an unwanted cowl in this case.

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Then slide the backing away while holding the tab to the surface with a thumb. Gently dab away any excess water with a tissue and smooth out removing any trapped air or bubbles.

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The finished transfer, leave to dry completely preferably over night, then I'm giving the airframe a dusting coat of Flair fuel proofer to seal the transfers and protect the overall finish

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This stuff is really a pleasure to use and has many potential applications only limited by the imagination.

Cheers,

Chris.

Edited By Big Bandit on 12/05/2012 01:31:24

Tom Wright 212/05/2012 01:51:31
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3908 forum posts
297 photos

Brilliant Chris thumbs upThe vintage appeal is now complete .Hope this model gets the marks it deserves,no pun intended lol.

The thread should come in useful for many others wanting to produce authentic looking models regardless of age .Thanks from me for taking the time to post the thread

Tom.

richard cohen12/05/2012 08:24:46
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289 forum posts
37 photos

heartily agree with BB.

After spending silly amounts at places like Pyramid models etc on vinyl graphics, i heard about water slides and took a chance. Superb. Any design you can print can be applied, the thin decal applies to almost any surface /contour. My only comment to add would be if you use a lazer printer rather than inkjet (and the correct type of paper to suit) then you dont need to laquer it. Just print, dry and apply. I love the stuff. With car even big decals can be made (though application needs a lot of care when they are bigger to avoid wrinkles/fold back)

The sheets are around £1 each so a pack is quite dear but when 2 sheets can hold every decal for a model, £2 is a bargain. If you check ebay you can buy a few sheets at a time rather than a pack.

Richard

Swissflyer12/05/2012 10:46:08
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162 forum posts
41 photos

Great, thanks a lot. I will keep this precious solution.
Mark smiley

Big Bandit12/05/2012 10:59:47
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2436 forum posts
947 photos

Sorry guy's, I managed to fowl up the link to the company, so here goes again.

Crafty Computer Paper

Cheers,

Chris.

Big Bandit12/05/2012 11:18:05
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2436 forum posts
947 photos

Hi Mark,

Your welcome.

Cheers,

Chris.

Ady Hayward12/05/2012 12:43:30
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734 forum posts
1224 photos

Hi BB and All,

I've used the decal paper as demonstrated many times now and it's great to use. I did find that the edges can peel very soon after application. To aid adhesion I now use a Humbrol product called "Decalfix" which is applied thinly by brush either over the area the decal is to be applied, or in my case after the decal has gone on to seal around the edges. It works really well and has a little working time before it sets.

Ady

Daithi O Buitigh12/05/2012 13:57:10
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1364 forum posts
50 photos

What we used to do years and years ago (before inkjets, lasers or whatever were even heard of) was to draw the outline on the sticky side of a gummed label, apply clear dope on that and then paint it in when the dope was dry.

It worked well - I suppose it could still be used with a printer (I'll have to try it to find out)

sticky fingers12/05/2012 21:57:22
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118 forum posts
14 photos

BB what sites do you recommend to get the decals such as the ones you have on your computer, keil kraft veron , smae etc, your help would be appreciated

Dave.

Edited By sticky fingers on 12/05/2012 21:57:57

Big Bandit12/05/2012 23:00:40
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2436 forum posts
947 photos

Hi Ady,

That's interesting to know, I plan to spray a light coat of Flair satin fuel proofer over the the model as I'm using a diesel, but I'll keep my eye out for the Decalfix when I'm in the LMS next.

Cheers,

Chris.

Big Bandit12/05/2012 23:10:43
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2436 forum posts
947 photos

Hi Dave,

A lot of mine came from This thread. As forwarded by another forumite, but most I've just found on the internet. I have a lot of originals which I need to scan. I also need to get a copy of Corel draw as I've been told it's very good for cleaning up and editing this kind of thing. If theres any particular logo you need PM me and I'll send them on if I have them.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Chris.

Big Bandit12/05/2012 23:23:07
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Posted by Daithi O Buitigh on 12/05/2012 13:57:10:

What we used to do years and years ago (before inkjets, lasers or whatever were even heard of) was to draw the outline on the sticky side of a gummed label, apply clear dope on that and then paint it in when the dope was dry.

It worked well - I suppose it could still be used with a printer (I'll have to try it to find out)

Hi Daithi

I remember hearing about some thing of that sort many years ago, but TBH I've never tried it mainly because when it comes to arty stuff I'm rubbish. Technical drawing and CAD I'm used too but anything other than that I need help teeth 2.

Cheers,

Chris.

Edited By Big Bandit on 12/05/2012 23:24:20

Daithi O Buitigh13/05/2012 03:19:34
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1364 forum posts
50 photos

well you could print onto the gummed paper, dope it and then paint in like 'paint by numbers'. wink

Steve Hargreaves - Moderator13/05/2012 07:20:10
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Moderator
6746 forum posts
197 photos

Well done BB....thats a great how to......thumbs up

No excuse for dodgy graphics now.....thinking

Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 13/05/2012 07:20:24

Josip Vrandecic -Mes13/05/2012 08:30:02
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2993 forum posts
260 photos

...Old craftsman rides..... again..thumbs up

Cheers

Jo

sticky fingers13/05/2012 10:08:25
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118 forum posts
14 photos

Hi Chris, Thanks very much for the info, just what I needed. Didnt realise that there are so many forums about , must stay in more .Look forward to meeting up at Greenacres. Wish I could say the same about CADsad

Dave

Edited By sticky fingers on 13/05/2012 10:11:26

Edited By sticky fingers on 13/05/2012 10:11:55

Ian Jones13/05/2012 17:23:31
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3219 forum posts
1397 photos

I've had quite a lot of trouble with fuel proofers turning into sticky yakky stuff, probably being eaten by the nitro (10%) I think.

However the last job I did I added sevral coats of Solarfilm Clearcoat over a week then left the aeroplane 2 weeks before flying it. It's only been a few months so far but it's not showing any signs of degrading so far.

Big Bandit13/05/2012 20:44:18
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Posted by Daithi O Buitigh on 13/05/2012 03:19:34:

well you could print onto the gummed paper, dope it and then paint in like 'paint by numbers'. wink

I'm rubbish at painting by numbers as well, the only arty stuff that worked for me was painting the bands name on my bass drum heads, but again it was a bit like technical drawing.

Cheers,

Chris.

Big Bandit13/05/2012 20:52:05
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2436 forum posts
947 photos

Steve, Jo,

Thanks Steve, I'm well chuffed with the result.

Jo, It was great having a chat the other evening on Skype, good to catch up. I can't believe how hard it is for you to get modelling supplies, in the UK I think we would go bonkers if we had to travel so far to get simple things. Will speak again soon.

Stay happy,

Cheers,

Chris.

Big Bandit13/05/2012 21:02:44
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2436 forum posts
947 photos

Hi Dave,

Your welcome, sounds like Greenacres is going to be fun especially if I can get my A cert done in time and do some flying. Still got the Sharkface, Super 60 and Matty to maiden yet as well. I need to get on with it teeth 2.

Cheers,

Chris.

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