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Flair Puppeteer

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Dean02/10/2012 10:52:51
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305 forum posts
54 photos

I am waiting to go to the local model shop to get some more bits for my Kamco Kavalier ,so with itchy fingers I decided to make a start on my Puppeteer.

I have decided to start with the wings, the undercarriage mounting doesn't look very well supported to me so this will be beeefed up a bit.

Any advice or modifications anyone has will be greatly received.

001.jpg

Edited By Dean on 02/10/2012 10:53:14

Greybeard02/10/2012 13:07:30
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726 forum posts
6 photos

It's a good design, it doesn't need beefing up, it's a floater. Enjoy the experience.

Kevin Fairgrieve02/10/2012 16:17:05
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1588 forum posts
2844 photos

Built as per ther plan.

Lovely to fly, shame it does not go in the car in one piece or I wold fly it much more.

 

Kev

 

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 02/10/2012 16:17:23

DG307/11/2012 17:49:29
75 forum posts
29 photos

I am nearly finished building my Puppeteer. I had built the fuselage, tailplane and wing panels about 19 years ago then gave up the hobby. Now that I am back in the hobby for the past year I have took it out of storage and am determined to finish it. It is still in good nick. I am wondering how many rolls of Solartex would be required to cover the whole thing based on 2m rolls that sussex sell?

**LINK**

Kevin, I like the colours you have on yours. What are the colours called? Antique for the linen colour? Is the green wing colour called Olive drab? Cheers.

GrahamC07/11/2012 18:08:34
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1229 forum posts
196 photos

The classic colours are...

Linen and Olive Drab. I reckon that you are looking at one roll of Olive Drab for the tops of the wings and two rolls of Linen (Ouch) If you can buy it by the metre (I know some shops sell it like this) a metre of White might make sense for the rudder and elevators, meaning that you only need to paint the red and blue.

The reason I know is that I have an uncovered one too! And a roll of Linen solartex sat on the shelf in front of me as I type!

I'm planning an electric conversion, so I won't be fuel proofing it. I'm also planning to cut it in half as per the rebuild by Danny Fenton on this site, so as to get it in the car with the wings rigged.

Here is that build log

Edited By GrahamC on 07/11/2012 18:11:38

Kevin Fairgrieve07/11/2012 18:31:04
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1588 forum posts
2844 photos

Antique linen Solartex all over.

The green is Warbirds Colours PC10

Roundels also in the same paints.

Waterbased and fuel proof.

Great stuff.

Kev

Limmy7107/11/2012 19:26:11
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23 forum posts
9 photos

i extended the nose 25mm so not as much lead needed and l also put a servo in each bottom wing half instead of one central servo

Danny Fenton07/11/2012 20:15:34
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9093 forum posts
3937 photos

I made the tail detacheable, when I restored a tired Pupeteer, and cut 2" off the nose wink 2

This shows the straps clamping the halves together, sorry its not a better picture embarrassed

Cheers

Danny

Concorde Speedbird07/11/2012 20:32:09
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2717 forum posts
631 photos

I do like your innovative ideas Danny, have you still got that Pup and is it still flying well?

Keep up on your builds Dean and Graham, this looks like a nice model and may be one future build for me.

CS

Terry Walters07/11/2012 20:36:47
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1831 forum posts
1068 photos

You guys are making me feel guilty! I've got a Flair Puppeteer kit that I bought second hand and unstarted. It's now awaiting a build slot. It was going to be the build I'm doing now but it seems to have been usurped by my Dennis Bryant Turbulent! I've got all the stuff for it and maybe if I get a move on it could still be done for the Spring! LOL!

Will watch with great interest! Keep it up chaps!

Terry

DG307/11/2012 20:41:07
75 forum posts
29 photos

The detacheable tail is a great idea and i think i will consider doing similar. I first need to check will the wings fit into a ford focus. I'm sure i could squeeze them in somehow.

Martin Harris07/11/2012 21:21:35
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8733 forum posts
214 photos

I didn't build the Puppeteer that I acquired about 10 years ago but I did have a rather nasty incident that I initially put down to the builder but later found followed the instruction leaflet that I got to see.

I flew the model and something didn't feel quite right on the recovery from a loop so I landed and checked the control movements, checked the control surfaces security, wobbled the wings and tail etc. What I didn't do was actually pick it up which could have been a fatal mistake.

On the next flight, I flew it gently and all seemed to respond correctly so thought I'd try a loop. At the bottom of the loop I realised I was in trouble as it wouldn't respond to the elevator and raise the nose. I then saw the leading edge of the lower wing was hanging down by a couple of inches. By a happy combination of full up elevator and a handy down slope, I managed to limit the arrival to some minor wing damage and a bent undercarriage. Because the model's weight was on the lower wing when I gave it a quick check over, I'd completely missed any movement before what could well have been its last flight.

The lower wing has a plate that carries the wing mounting pegs and was essentially just glued to the leading edge sheeting. I redesigned the fitting by extending the ply plate to fit into a recess in the leading edge and epoxying it in place. The picture below should give the general idea - I can't recall the exact details under the sheeting but the strength is now in shear from a half inch by three inch epoxy joint instead of a thin line on 1/16 sheet and a touching contact on the top of the leading edge.

pup.jpg

It's quite possible that this area has been revised in later versions but it's something to consider when you're building.

Oh and P.S. keep the tail as light as possible and stock up on lead for the noseweight that you'll need!

Edited By Martin Harris on 07/11/2012 21:29:39

Danny Fenton07/11/2012 21:29:47
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9093 forum posts
3937 photos
Posted by ConcordeSpeedbird on 07/11/2012 20:32:09:

I do like your innovative ideas Danny, have you still got that Pup and is it still flying well?

CS

Hi CS, I repaired it for a club mate and fellow forumite, I think it is still going strong wink 2

Cheers

Danny

GrahamC07/11/2012 21:40:29
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1229 forum posts
196 photos

I'm planning to get on with mine in the next couple of weeks. I'm also building a Marutaka Zero, and I've just sheeted the bottom of the wings and have a few more bits and pices to do before I pop that airframe somewhere while its really cold!

I can work on the Puppeteer in the spare room durning the coldest bit of winter. I bought the airframe fully built but uncovered at the Nats. The problem is that not having done the building, I need to get my head around what I need to do. When I build from scratch I have normally worked out what I need to do next before I get to it. I think I need to get it all out one evening and do some thinking!

Tom Sharp 207/11/2012 21:43:48
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3459 forum posts
17 photos

I don't want to rain on any ones parade, but splitting the fuselage on biplanes to avoid having to de-rig the wings has been practiced for many years.

 

thumbs up

Edited By Tom Sharp 2 on 07/11/2012 21:47:51

Danny Fenton07/11/2012 22:12:56
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9093 forum posts
3937 photos

Hi Tom, absolutely, splitting the fus like that wasn't my idea, but I did do it my own way.

Cheers

Danny

Martyn K07/11/2012 22:55:33
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4867 forum posts
3538 photos

I started my Puppetteer 6 years ago and 'finished' it earlier this year.

Then got bored with it...

I still need to get the CoG right. My biggest mistake was using the vinyl transfer kit. I think it has ruined the appearance of a nice looking aeroplane. I wish I had painted the roundels and tail flash.

Would be interested to know what powerplant prop combinations people are using. At the moment, I have a HB40 (1982 vintage) with a 11x4 prop. I feel it will be underpowered though.

Martyn

Kevin Fairgrieve08/11/2012 08:24:49
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1588 forum posts
2844 photos

ASP 52FS in mine. 12x6 prop If I recall correctly.

Kev

stu knowles08/11/2012 09:27:19
564 forum posts
44 photos

Mine has an OS 50 two stroke, quite old, (OS Max) with the Flair in cowl silencer.

Standard nose, not extended and no ballast.

If building another I would swop the bolted strut fixings for plug in tubes and use rigging to keep them in place. Anything to make field assembly quicker is worth the investment in build time.

stu k

Martin Harris08/11/2012 09:47:50
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8733 forum posts
214 photos

Mine was originally fitted with an old OS40 FS - no compression and enough power to fly in a fairly scalish manner - needed to be dived to loop it etc. Mind you, it came in under our rather stringent 75 dB Sunday afternoon limit. An OS 52 is ideal.

Watch out for overheating. People see the great big open hole at the front which they assume means that there can't be any issues here but there's plenty of room for the air to get in but little or no exit. What air that can get out tends to take the easiest route - which doesn't include an intricate journey around the cylinder fins.

The answer is simple and enhances the model's looks - a dummy engine. Mine is based on an aluminium disk with half cylinders glued to it but could just be a plain ply disk. Leave as small a gap as possible in front of the real cylinder to force any air that can get in to flow around it in close contact (some simple ducting can help here) and arrange an exit for this air, ideally 3 times the inlet area (see why you need to keep the inlet area small?) for the hot (and expanding) air to escape.

If you can arrange for the exit to be in a low pressure area, so much the better and a small lip in front of the exit can provide this.

This advice applies to any radial cowled engine installation but you wouldn't believe the amount of persuasion it took to get a fellow club member to do this mod to his Flair Harvard which dead-sticked on every flight with (in my opinion) an overheated engine. As soon as he did it, the model was transformed and would fly until the tank ran out.

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