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Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale

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Michael Denest08/11/2019 21:28:15
59 forum posts
35 photos

Ok, no blue peter over here (wikipedia search). We had Soupy Sales and Mr. Rogers.

Edited By Michael Denest on 08/11/2019 21:36:25

Nick Somerville15/11/2019 10:02:04
16 forum posts
12 photos

so the fus and tail feathers are pretty near complete. As I only ordered the minimum amount of solartex to cover the model I think I will glass cloth the front end and only tex the rear open structure. There are so may protrusions what with struts, UC, oil tank and cowling details to work around it should be much easier. Hopefully I can find a white spray paint to match the white tex. I ordered a pair if Hobby K oleos. But the nearest size they had in stock was 169mm and not 150mm I wanted. Plan is to cut the end off, drill and tap for a 4mm connecting coupling of some sort.

Edited By Nick Somerville on 15/11/2019 10:20:11

Phil B15/11/2019 10:36:01
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168 forum posts
161 photos

Solartex is nice stuff to use. I bought up some 10m rolls of old stuck (about £3 per m) from another "half surviving" model shop. Awful colours but I've found if you rub it with mets or acetone and take some of the dye out, you can then spray paint it.

However, I don't think you can beat a good nylon or silk and dope finish for looks and longevity. It does not wrinkle on sheet surfaces the way my Solartex efforts do.

Phil B15/11/2019 10:38:56
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168 forum posts
161 photos

My nylon dope covered test wing (old warped buccaneer wing), using new techniques for decor stripes.

img_20181117_202252.jpg

Phil B15/11/2019 10:44:02
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168 forum posts
161 photos

My second hand Precedent Stampe airframe arrives next week. So I've got plenty of fabric in stock.

Interestingly, Solartex is just dyed polyester fabric with a thin layer of heat sensitive (PVA based) glue.

I've found suitable polyester dress lining material on ebay for about £1.50 per metre in a nice variety of colours. Experimenting to see if it heat shrinks and takes dope nicely.

cymaz15/11/2019 13:45:11
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8817 forum posts
1195 photos
Posted by Phil B on 15/11/2019 10:44:02:

My second hand Precedent Stampe airframe arrives next week. So I've got plenty of fabric in stock.

Interestingly, Solartex is just dyed polyester fabric with a thin layer of heat sensitive (PVA based) glue.

I've found suitable polyester dress lining material on ebay for about £1.50 per metre in a nice variety of colours. Experimenting to see if it heat shrinks and takes dope nicely.

I will be interested in your findings. I’ve always had a sort of soft spot for solartex.

Martyn K15/11/2019 13:48:27
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5005 forum posts
3658 photos

+1. I would love to know how you get on as well

Can you let us know where the material came from please?

I love this thread. Always done thing interesting pops out. Need to think about building my sv4

Thanks

Martyn

Phil B15/11/2019 16:07:48
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168 forum posts
161 photos

Also as an aside, I do lots of glass fibre covering, but I have found nylon and dope to be probably better for covering sheet surfaces, especially on this type of model.

The polyester comes from eBay if you search

Plain Habotai Silk Lining Fabric 100% Polyester Material Dress Lining

You will find it. £1.80 per metre 158cm wide, approx 50g per sq m.

I will update tomorrow after some trials.

Nick Somerville15/11/2019 20:28:27
16 forum posts
12 photos

Also as an aside, I do lots of glass fibre covering, but I have found nylon and dope to be probably better for covering sheet surfaces, especially on this type of model.

what advatages are there in nylon and dope compared to glass clothing?

Phil B15/11/2019 21:38:02
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168 forum posts
161 photos

Obviously it's personal preference and I regularly use film, tex and gf covering. I find gf tricky round compound curves and obstacles. You can end up with lumpy resin and creases to be sanded out. Doping nylon edges round corners seems easier to me. Then finally the satin tex finish is nice and I think suits 30s and 40s biplanes well. To each his own.

Stuphedd15/11/2019 22:31:59
666 forum posts
352 photos

The best TEX in my experience was Polytex ! The advert for it was that "they" covered a golf ball to prove it went round corners.A lot easier to work with than Solartex . .

I was lead to believe that Polytex was bought out by a rival company that closed it down !??

cheers

Phil B16/11/2019 17:28:54
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168 forum posts
161 photos

I tried my cheap polyester covering with dope on a test piece (old vintage plane rudder). Applied dry using dope just on the edges. When dry, low heat at 100 deg C pulled out any wrinkles, as the polyester heat shrinks like Solartex. Then dope was used to fill the weave. I also tried first covering with lightweight laminating film, followed by doping on the polyester. This was very easy and airtight after 1 coat. 2 coats got the traditional translucent look.

Compared with silk or Flair nylon covering, this polyester is cheaper, easier and better in my opinion.

My next test will be to use Cover Grip (Balsa Loc) with dry polyester and used as an iron on covering. I think it will be feasible to make airtight using dope or latex paint, or possibly Solarlac. img_20191116_152657.jpgBefore doping the open structure.

john s16/11/2019 18:59:21
63 forum posts
2 photos
Posted by Phil B on 15/11/2019 16:07:48:

Also as an aside, I do lots of glass fibre covering, but I have found nylon and dope to be probably better for covering sheet surfaces, especially on this type of model.

The polyester comes from eBay if you search

Plain Habotai Silk Lining Fabric 100% Polyester Material Dress Lining

You will find it. £1.80 per metre 158cm wide, approx 50g per sq m.

I will update tomorrow after some trials.

Hi,

following this with interest as I'm getting near the covering stage on my Tapsfield Spacewalker and was thinking of using polyester.

Had a look on Ebay can only find 40g sq m, is that OK or do I need to look harder.

John

Phil B16/11/2019 20:16:55
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168 forum posts
161 photos

HI John,

It obviously depends on the plane size. I think 40 g is pretty good. I have some that's about 35 g and some that's 60 g and even the latter feels pretty light compared to Solartex. We have to remember that dope and paint (and fuel proofer?) will probably be more than the polyester.

I am just doing a test, stripping Solartex from the tail of a Junior 60 and replacing with polyester, so I can see what weight difference there is. Solartex is about 90 g per sq m, so I think your 40g poly is likely to come out lighter. Solar film polyester is 60g including the adhesive so is probably lighter but a lot dearer.

john s17/11/2019 00:10:43
63 forum posts
2 photos

Thanks Phil,

I'll try a couple of meters to experiment with, the Spacewalker is 91" span with a light but quite strong structure so not looking for much strength in the covering.

Interesting thread hope its OK to butt in.

John

Nick Somerville17/11/2019 09:45:09
16 forum posts
12 photos

6a282015-2a4f-4897-8032-24059ded2e90.jpeg

sorted out the challenging part of mounting the engine so it pokes through the cowl just right. Can’t say I got it right first time but it’s there now. Planning to model scale details on D-EBSH hence the louvres on this side of the cowling. I rather like them.

In a recent post by Jon, I noted his Laser 180 was mounted on a circular radial mount. I understand why now as after modifying my front end for the same engine I discovered that the mounting holes on the mount lined up perfectly with the sides if the front crutch 😩. Thank goodness I had recently acquired a Dremel on ebay and was able to use a tool to mine out pockets for the captive nuts behind the firewall.

Nick Somerville17/11/2019 09:55:52
16 forum posts
12 photos

A bit tooth paste like but simple enough with only the top wings painted with the sunburst.

1fa07511-de9e-43b4-ba36-069e263f5005.jpeg

cymaz17/11/2019 10:40:54
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8817 forum posts
1195 photos

Sunburst is a great scheme...ask me how I know! wink

Phil B17/11/2019 11:04:26
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168 forum posts
161 photos

Yep that's a nice plane. I like the louvres too.

Nick Somerville17/11/2019 15:39:03
16 forum posts
12 photos

Just thinking ahead to radio/battery installation.... how have most builds worked our re the c of g? Nose heavy or tail heavy. I know it’s a bit relative but I am generally a light builder, but have a fairly hefty Laser 180 up front. I know I added lead to one end of my first Stampe but can’t recall which end. Painted that one with a red sunburst top and bottom wings and with G-JOEL as a registration. Sold it to a couple of rogues from South Wales 😥

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