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Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale

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Percy Verance20/05/2013 16:55:58
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Hi again Dylan

Re: hinged access panels in cowls etc.

Here's the access panel in the cowl of my 1/4 scale Condor. The hatch is almost exactly 2 inches square. As can be seen, there are two small brass (doll's house) hinges. The swivelling latch/handle is from thin brass sheet, and the rest is fairly visually obvious. You're always going to get a gap when you cut hatches out such as this one, and probably the best tool for the job is a small drill (Dremel) and the type of cutting disc used for wire. Oh, and at the risk of stating the obvious, you must work slowly.....

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You'll have to excuse the bubble wrap Dylan. If I'm not currently flying a model, it gets the engine and batteries removed, and then it gets wrapped and stored in my heated hideaway......

Edited By Percy Verance on 20/05/2013 17:01:32

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services20/05/2013 18:40:17
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Sounds interesting Percy, you;ll have to let me know.

Well I have the Dremmel, bought as a kit, which states it includes a straight line cutter on the box, but it doesn't show which of the obscure attachments it is, and there are no instructions included other than a dvd trying to sell me more dremmel goodies.

As far as the actual hatch goes, I'm a bit worried about the integrity of the cowl itself when done, see photo to follow (once I have uploaded it).

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services20/05/2013 18:45:17
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This is about a clear a shot as I can find

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Percy Verance20/05/2013 19:27:26
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7517 forum posts
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A straight line cutter? Sounds interesting Dylan. Why might there be an issue with cowl integrity? Is it a bit thin/wobbly? If that's the case you'll need to incorporate an internal frame round the hatch or flap, probably from 1/16 ply, or for an extremely weak/wobbly cowl you could maybe use tinplate or thin brass sheet?

Fortunately, the Condor cowl was anything but flimsy. It needed to be a substantial moulding though, as it's about a foot long, and ten inches wide where it's fixed to the fuselage. As will be seen from the photos Dylan, I have a partial frame around the cut-out to provide a lip for the latch. There's bags of room in the cowl too. It swallowed my OS Gemini plus the on board glow set-up without a problem.

It'll mean a fair bit of butchery to get a scale hinged side panel on the Stampe Dylan, but it ought to be perfectly do-able. I have seen similar set-ups on Tiger Moths. My thoughts would be to leave your existing cowl alone and get another cowl from Carbon Copy or Slec themselves, and do the work on that one.

What appears to make it look all the more awkward is the fact the exhaust exits the cowl right where you need a bit of strength. Still, it's not impossible. If it were me I'd incorporate a dummy exhaust (ally or copper pipe) right where it should be, and I'd integrate it into the cowl structure at that point. A hefty-ish piece of block balsa in the bottom of the cowl perhaps?

 

 

 

 

Edited By Percy Verance on 20/05/2013 19:45:57

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services20/05/2013 20:53:03
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661 photos

I should have said really, the exhaust outlets are not as this one, its a different vairiant I am building with 4 pipes coming out of the bottom of the cowl running down the centre, so that should really be an issue.

The cowl itself is a FG one and a couple couple of mill thick, its just there is one of these full size opening panels on each side of the cowl, so there will be 2 large open areas on the rear edge, although it will be fixed top an bottom to the fuz. I'm not after comp scale level of detail, just representative, so it looks right (ish) as though it should be there, not an actual facsimally (spelling? lol). Plus it gives me a bit of access to the engine should I need it.

Percy Verance20/05/2013 21:24:39
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7517 forum posts
144 photos

When I cast my mind back to my Puss Moth, that model had the usual DH style cowl. I had to go totally from scratch with that one, with a reasonably hefty spruce and ply framework. It had a solid block nose panel and block balsa on the underside where the long alloy dummy exhaust pipe exited. The top part of the cowl was thin curved allloy sheet, as were the side panels. And one of the side panels was curved rather more than it's opposite side.

I think it'd be a total pain to attempt to create a complete cowl for the Stampe like this, but if you obtained another cowl, I think it could readily be modified to end up how you want it Dylan. Oh, and you'll need engine access alright. Make a cowl without it and you'll regret it sooner or later. Cooling can sometimes be an issue with slender cowls, but if you have any problems try some baffles or deflectors to direct air right at the cylinder fins. Should do the trick.

I tend to use Laser engines almost exclusively in scale models (apart from the Condor), so I don't normally have any issues with silencer position. I think I recall you saying you have a Laser, so you'll know what I mean here. And if you're using an engine other than a Laser, I can thoroughly recommend one of these silencers for a scale job.

Here.......   http://rcspecialties.net/

 

 

Edited By Percy Verance on 20/05/2013 21:31:49

cymaz21/05/2013 09:05:04
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8272 forum posts
1144 photos

Dylan, I too would like to put the 4 exhaust stubs in. Page 6 on this thread will show what I had in mind. However, having given it futher thought I am a little nervous. The air exit is not as big as it should/could be. I might take out more wood on the exhaust plate and find ways of increasing the hole on the cowl bottom. Ihave also shown the engine baffle I made to really force the air into the engine fins.

 

I just hope it all works. More work done on the top wing. Just waiting for some balsa.

Having looked at dozens of real Stampe photos, would someone confirm to me or otherwise that the top wing is slightly longer in span than the lower on some variations. Got a picture below.

It seems that some Stampes did and some didn't or am I going cuckoo.

3 view.jpg

Edited By cymaz on 21/05/2013 09:08:17

cymaz21/05/2013 09:17:29
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8272 forum posts
1144 photos

P.S.

There is a little difference on my Rothmans-I thinksmile d. Please excuse the idiot in the green woolly hat...thats Cymazlips

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John Hill 621/05/2013 12:44:57
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139 forum posts
225 photos

Hi Dylan and cymaz, you have both got me thinking I should restart on my Stampe, I just have the bottom wing to build now and I don’t currently feel in the mood for a shed full of balsa shavings and dust, but the urge to restart is slowly coming back the more I read this build thread.

Having looked at the discussions over the past few days about the cowl I decided a while ago to build the one in the kit using the frame, the thin sheets of ply and the ABS front part as like Dylan I wanted to have the working hatches on each side. But once I built it I realised I could simulate the hatches instead. (this idea came from cymaz as he said he was going to simulate the doors on the side of the fuzz with brass tube for the hinge and litho plate for the door).

So I used the brass tube to look like the hinge and for the hatch panel lines I used grey primer and masking tape to build these up. I then also copied the exhaust idea but used the plastic polypipe instead as this is what I had lying around. I then made up some dummy latches with scraps.

Have a look at the pictures below and on my profile if you are interested.

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cymaz21/05/2013 12:54:17
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8272 forum posts
1144 photos

I LIKE IT JOHNsmile p Glad you're on with us again.

 

Are you glow ??or will you power your Stampe by using sorcery and dark spells (elec***ic)??

If glow give some thought to cooling and ducting getting the max amount of air around the engine fins.

 

Edited By cymaz on 21/05/2013 12:54:29

Percy Verance21/05/2013 14:01:27
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7517 forum posts
144 photos

Welcome to the thread John, although I hasten to add it isn't my thread! Your Stampe cowl reminds me very much of my built up Puss Moth cowl, built from the Chris Hughes Modelplan design. That one had a basic wooden frame, with a rolled litoplate top piece and sheet side panels. It worked out quite well, but wasn't hugely robust.

The air scoop looks nifty John. Is it moulded into the cowl, or have you added that?

 

Edited By Percy Verance on 21/05/2013 14:10:32

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services21/05/2013 17:32:10
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661 photos

Yes welcome John, and very nice work there, the more the merrier I says, you can never have too many Stampessmile p

Cymaz, If you are building to the Precedent plan then yes there is a difference in span in the two wings, a couple of inches at each tip I would say looking at it, but if you want it measuring I can do.

I actually cheated with the cowl, I attempted to build the kit frame and grp front, but it just didn't seem sturdy enough to me, but that may have been my building skills at the time, I opted for the full FG cowl, which I honestly don't think was made for the Pressie Stampe, it has a rather strange addition to the bottom and not flat at all, but hey ho.

What I may do is cut one of the opening panels, and if it looks a right mess I can always attach a litho plate panel over the top slightly over size to hide my bad cutting lol and hinge that.

And John I am very interested to k now how you produced the scoop as well, looking at making that addition myself.

All said and done though, I think when it appears at Greenacres (and if) then I really think it will be in its very basic form as I don't want to rush all the detailing.

Yes Percy I do have a laser, but a Saito will sit proud up front in this one unless I can find a 150/180 laser at a very charitable price thinking

Percy Verance21/05/2013 21:55:54
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7517 forum posts
144 photos

Hi Dylan

Usually, those who buy Lasers tend to hang on to them Dylan. Be aware the Laser 1.50 and 1.80 are very different in size and weight. If you get a sniff of one, the 1.50 is the one to go for particularly if you already own the 100. Both will fit the same mounting, which is useful.

Gordon, (the chap who had all the Saito radials) had a new unused Laser 1.50 in it's box Dylan, but I haven't a clue where it went when his house was cleared. It's enough to make a bloke weep......

If I hear of one going spare anywhere, I'll let you know.

Edited By Percy Verance on 21/05/2013 21:58:38

John Hill 621/05/2013 22:54:08
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139 forum posts
225 photos
Hi, I'll be putting a Saito 1.80 up front, but I am going to convert it to good old unleaded first. There are a number of conversion kits you can get in the US and I think after researching the best one is from CH Ignitions. Yes I do need to think carefully about cooling especially as the saito converted petrol will be prone to getting hot. I like your idea very early in the build tread forcing air over the engine fins, another idea i might copy from you.
The scoop on the cowl was first carved out of blue foam, I then laid several layers of heavy weave glass cloth over this. Once dried you can simply melt the blue foam away with acetone to leave the scoop. I think its called the 'lost foam' technique, but i might have just made that up, anyway I then just glued it on.
cymaz22/05/2013 06:43:56
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8272 forum posts
1144 photos

I can't find where I got my scoop but it was similar to this

 

NEWS FLASH.....just got email from toni-clark designs in Germany. They have the abs plastic oil tank in stock #1140. The cost is 18.04 Euros and that includes p+p.

Dylan et at no excuse now for a bit more detailwink 2

Edited By cymaz on 22/05/2013 06:50:31

cymaz22/05/2013 07:04:54
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8272 forum posts
1144 photos

Just paid toni-clark via paypal........now awaiting goodssmile p. Will post photos when parts arrive

cymaz22/05/2013 10:15:33
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8272 forum posts
1144 photos

BTW

I know a man who is very very good with a cnc vinyl cutter. The lettering on the tank is a shade over 1mm wide. He gave me some spares for the Precedent build. This is on the Rothmans..

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John Hill 622/05/2013 11:16:56
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139 forum posts
225 photos

I've spent a small fortune on Toni Clark kits and bits and i must say they are all excellent quality so I'd be interested to see what your bits are like.

cymaz22/05/2013 12:44:44
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8272 forum posts
1144 photos

VERY nice toni Clark pitts, john, will there be a pilot any time soon?

Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services22/05/2013 17:12:18
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1704 forum posts
661 photos

spares you say Cymaz? wink 2 nudge nudge wink wink

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