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Oodalally

My latest quickie design

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in the shops 8th March

kc21/01/2014 17:33:13
5870 forum posts
168 photos
As long as the arms and linkages dont clash it should be OK. However if you make one of the servos a mini one ( perhaps on throttle ) it would be easier.
kc21/01/2014 17:43:00
5870 forum posts
168 photos
Having had a look at the plan I reckon there should be just enough room for 3 Futaba standard servos ( 148 or 3003 )
What I also noticed is the bearers for servos look as though they should be higher so the servos go in from underneath and the screws go in from underneath too.
( I have not built the model -yet- so I am working on guesswork here based on other models)
D for Donald21/01/2014 18:16:39
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Thanks kc. I can get the 3 servos in but the bodies will actually touch each other. The linkages wont clash if I have one the other way round. I was thinking more about electrical interference with each other. It will have an ic engine.

You are right about the bearers but I installed them per the plan and now it's too late - but I will be able to fettle it. I cant mount them from the other side because the cockpit floor is fitted at an earlier stage. I should have fitted the bearers more by eye but I was assuming the plan was spot on.

Peter Miller21/01/2014 18:21:37
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There should be plenty of room for the three servos. Stagger the servos so that one output arm is either behind or in front of the other two..

I don't know why the servo bearers are shown below the servo. I never drew them that way, in fact I didn't show the bearers. Obviously the servo bearers should be under ther servos looking at the inverted fuselage. Just leave about 1/16" clearence under the bottom of the servo.

D for Donald21/01/2014 18:27:54
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Thanks Peter. As I say, yes I can squeeze them in but the servo bodies touch each other. See my earlier comment about the bearers.

Peter Miller21/01/2014 19:11:17
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9847 forum posts
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Servo bodies touching are not a problem from the electrical point of view. Might rubaa bit due to vibration. I think I used mini servos, i.e., not micro but smaller than standard.

Probably the best answer would be to re fit the servo bearers..

I didn't spot that when proofing the prints. Well, no one would expect them to be that way round. No one esle seems to have commented on that.

kc22/01/2014 16:15:58
5870 forum posts
168 photos

It looks as though the servos could still fit on bearers as per the plan, but the thing to beware of is the linkages jamming against the wing when its fitted. Another thing is the throttle cable hole in F3 is intended for servos at the correct height. Generally better to remove the bearers and refit them. I have just hacked a different model around ( to electrify it ) so I have recent experience of removing bearers! I found it best to cut through the middle and carefully break them away. I used a wood chisel to encourage them to break at the glue joint.In my model it removed a layer of the ply doubler which wont matter. It all depends on how good the glue joint is!
D for Donald22/01/2014 18:10:24
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Thanks kc. I've already bitten the bullet and moved the bearers which was a pain. I didn't actually spot the servos on the plan were drawn incorrectly!!! I've also squeezed standard Futaba servos in. I'm using min 2 servos in the wing to operate the ailerons so wont have central servo issue.

Edited By D for Donald on 22/01/2014 18:12:17

Shane Sunday27/01/2014 20:59:01
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342 forum posts
160 photos

Wel Peter I said I would post when I had my repai of the pilatus using the Ooladally plans. Ive need 6cells up front plus lead to ballance her. She now weighs in at just shy of 6 lbs. In tottal ive had to rebuild the nose and wing. The fuse was glassed using 25 gm cloth and west systems epoxy to bring strength to the join. Ive made both joins long and gradual to help keep her strong. The wing was built using mostly depron ribs and sheet but also utilising spruce spars and balsa leading and trziling edges.then the wing was glassed as well and painted. The fuse was covered using litespan and balsa lock. This was to keep the weight down as much as possible. Funny how the dry frame weighed 1lb 9oz andthen everything else just adds up. Oh ya I also added a 9cm centre piece to the wing to bring the tottal to 56 inches. I have to say that I couldnt have done it without your plan. Thanks a bunch. Now if we can ever get over all this wind and rain I could get her out for a maiden.

20140127_202308.jpg

20140127_202323.jpg

i hope you like it.

Peter Miller28/01/2014 08:55:59
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9847 forum posts
1157 photos
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Very smart and I see that you made the tailplane as a built up unit but the all up weight is nearly 28% heavier than the original.

I will be most interested to hear how she flies.

D for Donald28/01/2014 10:04:05
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73 forum posts
8 photos

Very nice Shane. Where did you get the cockpit - I was thinking of something similar myself?

Peter Miller28/01/2014 18:41:25
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9847 forum posts
1157 photos
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That is an Me 109 canopy but where he got it is another thing

D for Donald28/01/2014 19:08:18
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73 forum posts
8 photos

Himmel !! It might be a Vacforms funfighter one - it looks similar.

Shane Sunday28/01/2014 23:36:04
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342 forum posts
160 photos

Thanks I like the looks of it. Like I said this model was a seagul pilatus pc9. Now it's mostly a Frankenstein. The modhas been built from many pieces of many past arrivals. The canopy is a me 109 from a previous crash. The ailerons are from another model. The undercarriage is from an unused trainer. I hate to throw out any thing that might be useful one day. Yeah I'm also aware that the weight is way up there but the motor/propeller/battery combination yields 748 watts and only 36 amps. That's roughly 130 watts per pound give or take. I just can't wait to fly it again.

Peter Miller29/01/2014 08:24:43
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9847 forum posts
1157 photos
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Yes, the power may be adequate but what is far more important for a nice flying model is the wing loading. Low wing loading is far better for aerobatics. I alwasy say that my designs fly on the wing, not the power.

Oodallaly has a wing loading of 19.29 ounces per square foot. Your model has a wing loading of 27.6 ounces per square foot.

It will still fly but it wil not be as nice as the original and will need to fly faster and land faster.

kc29/01/2014 14:50:21
5870 forum posts
168 photos
Lighter models fly better and crash less!
Converting a model designed for glow to electric really means moving the bulkhead forward in many cases so that the Lipo can go as far forward as possible to avoid using lead. Often the electric motor and Lipo weigh about the same as a glow but the Lipo weight comes further back. So it may be desirable to extend the nose a little if its not a scale model.
Shane Sunday29/01/2014 22:49:55
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342 forum posts
160 photos

Im still learning when it comes to wing loadings. Im still learning by most acounts. The original was 6 and a half lbs.Ive converted a few IC models to electric, I dont find they crash more often than the electric ones do but im very aware of the weight that they go up with they come home with. Landing speeds are often faster. All in all im just glad I was able to get her built again.

On a side note the model dry weighs 4.6 lbs the 6s 4000 mah lipo weighs 1lb 5oz

Peter Miller30/01/2014 08:40:05
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9847 forum posts
1157 photos
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The weight without the battery is reasonable.

High wing loadings mean that the model has to fly at a higher angle of attack. This increases drag. This means that the maximum speed is reduced. IT also means that the model needs more speed to fly at the low speed end of the range.

Theoretically it means that if the model is heavy enough the minimumm flying speed is actually higher than the maximum possible speed.

D for Donald09/02/2014 16:41:07
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73 forum posts
8 photos

Has anyone tried Flaperons on Oodalally and if so, when deployed was flight steady or was up or down elevator needed?

Peter Miller09/02/2014 18:14:21
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9847 forum posts
1157 photos
10 articles

Try it. Tell me how it crashes.

You are asking for a tip stall,

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