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Junior 60 electric - any tips?

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david 721/12/2012 12:39:13
219 forum posts
16 photos

Any tips on building this model as i normally build artf models, should i build the air frame first or the wings first, should i use epoxy or super glue , whats the best way to stop any twist or bends when building, not in any rush to build it as i have other models to use,

Thanks Dave.

Andy Gates21/12/2012 13:10:00
643 forum posts
20 photos

Personally I would use a white wood glue rather than super glue or epoxy.

Epoxy is strong but heavy, super glue can be brittle.

You can build either section first, it will not matter much.

As to building straight the most important thing is to have a flat building board, some way of holding the built parts flat (weights, pins, pegs or tape) and some way of making sure parts are straight and square (long rule and squares). Some guide lines drawn on the board in either direction will help during construction.

The other really great assistance is by having a build thread. That way other builders can help spot mistakes before they get to far inside the build, it will provie motivation and if there are any incidents later on in its life and a repair is required then you will have documentation as to how the machien was built.

Good luck and have fun

David Davis21/12/2012 14:33:27
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3759 forum posts
718 photos

Hi Dave,

The Junior 60 was my first successful radio controlled model so I have a soft spot for the old dear; they fly very nicely.

It was far from the first model I'd ever built however, but since those days I've invested in a SLEC building jig to make sure that I can't build a fuselage shaped like a banana! It costs £17.88 and I wouldn't be without one now. I see that SLEC sell balsa building boards for between £15 and £29.50 according to size. I use a piece of pinboard glued to chipboad as a building board, others use a piece of plasterboard which they throw away when it becomes unserviceable. You can find SLEC on www.slecuk.com.

I agree with Andy that you should use white or aliphatic glue throughout most of the structure. Allow the glue to go off over night. You could use the cyano for the tailplane in order to save a little weight. This is particularly important for the J60 which has a very short nose so reserve light balsa for the tailplane and you'll need to cover the plan in plastic or greaseproof paper to stop the glue sticking to it. I use clingfilm.

Finally, I have always built the fuselage first, then the wing and then the tail surfaces but there's no hard and fast rule. I just feel that once you've built the big bits, you're enthused to finish off the tail. On the other hand many American kits advise you to start with the tailplane.

I'm pleased to welcome another builder to our ranks. You'll get lots of problems but lots of pleasure building your model and you will have the pleasure of finishing it in your own colour-scheme making your model unique. If you know an experienced builder I'm sure he'd be delighted to supervise the construction.

ken anderson.22/12/2012 09:37:06
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8686 forum posts
808 photos

hello david...there must be 100's of JNR 60's flying......a lot of them have started off life on the forum here.......check out these threads...and if you need any more info use the search function...

ken anderson ne...1 JNR 60 dept.....

david 722/12/2012 13:17:02
219 forum posts
16 photos

Thanks, Ken, Andy, and David for your advise and tips , the wife wont let me get my hands on it until xmas day as it is my present from her,not very good at building models so im going to take my time and get some new glasses so i can see what im doing , the kit from what i have seen looks like a box of balsa wood let you know how i get on in the new year and post some pictures.

just a change of topic was recovering my super cub last night in very bright yellow solar fim, started with the wing after about i hour i started to get the worst head ache i have had in a long time, dont know if it is from the bright yellow or from the smell when useing the iron, fine now but dont like yellow any more..

Dave.

ken anderson.22/12/2012 13:28:26
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8686 forum posts
808 photos

you are wellcome from me david.......talking about the yellow -may be apropiate to use the thread to warn people not to eat the yellow snow....... a strange custom that originated down the south end of the UK ...

ken anderson.......ne..1 ...seasonal warnings dept.....

Mike Etheridge 122/12/2012 20:52:07
1553 forum posts
430 photos

David,

Nobody has mentioned balsa cement as a glueing agent---I still have a fat tube of 'DUR' balsa cement but have more recently used medium super glue plus 'kicker' which allows much faster construction.

It was 50 years ago when I bought my 'New Junior 60' kit from a shop called Heset Model Supplies in South Croydon which was located opposite the exclusive Whitgift Grammar school. We had up to four model shops in Croydon in the 1950's / 60's, now we have none!

The Junior 60 kit was very special to me at the time as it was my first radio model and cost a vast 58 shillings. It needs refurbishing at the moment but could be put in flying trim in no time.---Best of luck with your model.

I have recently used the 50 year old wings coupled to a Super 60 fuselage as below:

Mike

Super 60

Junior 60 below-equivalent to the Flair Junior 60 not the Ben Buckle version.

Edited By Mike Etheridge 1 on 22/12/2012 20:58:03

David Davis23/12/2012 06:09:05
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3759 forum posts
718 photos

Refurbishing? I'd fly it as it is!

Mike Etheridge 123/12/2012 13:09:55
1553 forum posts
430 photos

It will fly as it is but as can been seen in the photograph the celluloid cockpit cover on the right has lifted off the balsa frame and the black Humbrol paint has pickled. I have got a tin of fuel proof black paint to spray the front but as the paint is sensitive to low temperature I will have to wait for a warm day. I missed out on the three Medway club free flight and radio assist days last year but will make sure the plane is ready for 2013. As it is so old it's caused a few laughs at the Bartons Point club where they reckon the only time it flies fast is during the hand launch!----not true

MJE

kc23/12/2012 15:02:05
6520 forum posts
173 photos

Plasterboard makes a good cheap building board. Several bits are handy in different sizes so you can continue fus, tail Wings at same time. ( offcuts in skips? ) Must be flat of course. You can insert pins easily or fix spar down with a woodscrew and a bit of ply. Use proper T pins ( from SLEC etc )or plastic head map pins but not glass headed which shatter and pierce your thumb.  Buy a few SLEC Handy clamps( rubber band clamps)  U

Evostick Wood Glue Resin W is suitable PVA. Cover plan with polythene ( Solarfilm backing is useful) Build one fus side then when dry build another side over top covering first with thin polythene. Dont make 2 left sides and no right! ( doublers vary on some models ) Cut accurate joints with this type of construction to ensure strong airframe.  Use a proper scalpel with new blade.  Swan Morton is the best brand and their Retractaway type is hardly any dearer than standard.  I use 10A blades. 

Consider visiting the London Model Engineering Exhibition at Alexandra Palace mid January and watch the people on BMFA stand making balsa models to get some tips.  Otherwise ask also at CLAPPA stand for building advice.

As for headaches could it be heating up some cyano whilst covering? Cyano gives off cyanide when heated. It might be eyesight but also check its not carbon monoxide poisining!

Edited By kc on 23/12/2012 15:21:09

david 724/12/2012 09:08:11
219 forum posts
16 photos

Again thanks to all for the tips and advise , going to check out some of the builds all ready done on the web site, kc you could be right about the cyno i remember heating up my scalpel to get in to the corners to stick down the solar film and had some cyno on the blade the smell was realy bad , going to finish them of in the open air when we get a dry day , solar film is not very good on foam you have to heat it up more to get it to stick.

Dave.

David Davis24/12/2012 09:50:51
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3759 forum posts
718 photos

I'd be inclined to use Solartex on a J60, sure it's a bit heavier than Solarfilm but it's much easier to use and with modern brushless motors and Lipos you'll have the power to handle the extra weight.

ken anderson.24/12/2012 10:04:56
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8686 forum posts
808 photos

deffo go for solartex.......i have mine covered with it....i thought it was doing well reaching its 21 years old.....but its still a spring chicken compared to grandad above.....who is 50! ....

ken anderson....ne....1...spring chicken dept...

david 724/12/2012 17:25:03
219 forum posts
16 photos

yeah , got to be solartex thats what i was going to do any good color to cover it in , whats the normal for this model, just having some old coke and rum ,

merry xmas smile p to all

Dave

David Davis24/12/2012 18:55:56
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3759 forum posts
718 photos

Antique Solartex. a transluscent cream colour, a bit like unbleached silk, is a popular choice for covering Junior 60's but it's not compulsory.

Solartex also offer a range of Vintage colours which look similar to dyed silk or nylon and allow the structure of the model to show through. My Senior Telemaster is finished in Vintage Blue, Vintage Orange and Natural Solartex, a sort of vintage white.

Senior Telemaster

Orange is said to be highly visible under most light conditions that's why life rafts are finished in orange but the choice is yours and it's one of the joys of building your own model..

Merry Christmas to everybody from me too.

Mike Etheridge 124/12/2012 23:53:03
1553 forum posts
430 photos

I used the German 'Oratex' on the Super 60 fuselage and although it is a modern fabric and relatively expensive I think it is superior to Solartex.

Ken look after the Junior 60 and it will last another 29 years and hopefully so will you?----I will be 94 then!

Also Merry Christmas!

MJE

ken anderson.25/12/2012 10:48:00
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8686 forum posts
808 photos

all the best young mike...JNR will be here .... i wont ..... crying

ken anderson ne..1 ...christmas day dept.....

Mike Etheridge 103/01/2013 15:29:29
1553 forum posts
430 photos

I found this scan today of the original elevation. Unfortunately the original plan was stolen from my lock-up garage together with a lot of other aeromodelling kit.

As you will note the ED Racer was the engine illustrated and the rudder (meant for 'full off' or 'full on' left then right or vice-versa movement with a rubber escapement ) was substantially smaller than for the current JNR 60 models.

MJE

junior 60.jpg

david 707/01/2013 13:55:51
219 forum posts
16 photos

Hi all, thanks for the photos plans and advise, i nearly have all my gear ready to start building,just waiting for some mini clamps.

Been going over plans and instrutions trying to under stand it before i start, can any one explain in simple turms what this means, postion the main spar over plan, note the main spar needs to be packed up 1/16 sheet to allow for the undercamber on the ribs, does not show the packing on the plan, have identified the main spar and ribs, looks like im stuck before i even start.

any help would be welcomed.sad

Dave

ken anderson.07/01/2013 16:39:53
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8686 forum posts
808 photos

david...because of the undercamber in the ribs(bottom of them)...they dont lie flat on the plan and neither does the spar......so it needs to be lifted off the plan(packed)...to allow the construction......hope that makes sense.....

ken anderson ne..1 ....... spar dept...

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