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Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer

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Chris Dowell09/06/2019 03:32:56
95 forum posts
47 photos

Thanks Rich as I said...must be simple me .I was going to put up a flying Revolver video ..but I'm pretty sure it will not appear. You know I must be good at something....just haven't found out yet what it is ( I had better be quick)crying

Chris...

Richard Harris09/06/2019 20:25:17
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2034 forum posts
1868 photos

Chris,

Are you talking about the black box you get in a reply when you have copied and pasted the youtube embed code?

If so this is normal as when you press the 'add posting' tab the 'black box' becomes the video once done.

Try it?

Rich

Chris Dowell10/06/2019 03:11:28
95 forum posts
47 photos

Rich What I mean by black box...is where there is supposed to be a video, and I did see the one you posted of my "balancing Act " for a short time...but now it's a black box.

I also find this site runs very slow. I type the words and then sit and wait to see them appear.(strange)

Chris...

Big T10/06/2019 09:57:03
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214 forum posts
202 photos
Posted by B YELLOP on 07/06/2019 09:01:35:

Hi, the article says prop is 8x7.5. It is illustrated as 3 blades. On this site I have seen many pictures/vids that are 2 bladed!. What is the size recommended for the D3530/14 motor and how many blades please. Being a returnee I have a lot to learn.

Regarding the balancing of the main rotor blades.

You recommend using Balsaloc , I assume this is to add weight in the right place!!. What else can be used as my local model shop has indicated that this type of product is not widely used. What type of product is acceptable for same purpose, assuming it will be covered at some point? As is glaringly obvious I have every thing to learn about modern covering types and techniques so please bare with me.

So many questions, sorry to be such a pain .

Barry

Edited By B YELLOP on 07/06/2019 09:05:43

I have tried several methods of blade covering and balancing. For adding weight to the blade before covering I have used I have used urethane varnish, balsaloc, pva, water based primer undercoat, They all work. Traditionally I used a heat shrink covering film ensuring that I use the same amount on each blade. For final balance after covering I normally use electrical insulation tape on the c of g. To move the c of g I insert small nails in the end of the blade and fix in place with glue. We have even used coins as a field fix.

Disciple of Autogyros10/06/2019 10:48:49
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25 forum posts
15 photos

Hi Rich,

I maidened the Revolver yesterday. The wind was gusty and coming from all directions, but a helper and I went off the patch to some very long grass as I'd preempted crashing!. It was a hand launch taking account of the shifting wind direction. First launch my helper held the Revolver too vertical so the wind blew it backwards and crashed (no damage - the long grass was a good idea!. Second launch, helper launched much flatter this time, but I didn't have enough throttle so it flew for a bit then crashed - no damage (I love the long grass). Third launch, flatter and full power, flew off like a dream, It did a couple of circuits but it struggled big time in turns, I concluded that I didn't have enough throw built in for roll, however I was unable to adjust this as shortly after it nosed dived but, wasn't saved by the long grass this time. However the only damage was the mast snapped and nose wheel bent. I've made and fitted a new mast and unbent the nose under carriage. All good to go again.

In case your wondering, the servos are Corona MG rated at 4kg.

Mike

Cuban810/06/2019 12:49:06
2502 forum posts
10 photos

That's a shame DoL. Perhaps more of a chance in slightly better weather? How much roll movement do you think you'll need to adjust in?

BTW, managed to get a reasonable canopy from my 3L pop bottle thanks to your adviceyes

Haven't had as much time as I'd like to get my Revolver finished, getting close thoughsmiley

Richard Harris12/06/2019 09:30:22
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2034 forum posts
1868 photos

Mike,

Nice to hear you have got your Revolver into the air, your a braver man than me undertaking a maiden in those conditions as I prefer things to be almost flat calm. Glad the damage sustained is minimal, the mast is an easy replacement and its always worth making a few spare.

To keep you one stop ahead before a maiden a little trick is to 'pre trim' an autogyro by holding it into wind above your head with the blades spinning at full rpm. By doing this you can feel if the model is pulling in any direction to which it can be trimmed to suit, obviously it is not as accurate as doing test hops but it can give you a good head start.

It is worth noting that if this is done the easiest way to slow the blades down is to rotate the model so that the blades upper face are directed at the wind.

On another note I am nearing the completion of a canopy plug for SARIK specific for the Revolver II, more to come on that.

 

Rich

 

Edited By Richard Harris on 12/06/2019 09:31:35

B YELLOP12/06/2019 14:35:14
7 forum posts

Richard, forgive me for what seems such a simple question to an expert like yourself but........

I am trying to cut out the hole/slot in the rear cabin cover for the control rods from servo to the head. I am using the same servo as yourself. They servo arm has a travel of some 135 degs, This amount of travel would require an enormous slot to allow full travel of the servo arm. I have examined the pics on the post , and the slots seem quite small. Is it possible to show a shot of the slot or more and perhaps some guidence for a long in the tooth novice lilke myself. I've got this far and don't want to make a big boo boo and have to make another fuse'g.

Many thanks Barry

Steve Jones 212/06/2019 16:26:53
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498 forum posts
369 photos

I put my servos reversed to the plan with the output arms at the bottom not top.

This makes the head control rods a bit longer but means the cut out for the arms and their movement is only required in the fuselage and not the canopy.

I am a bit confused in your comment on servo travel of 135 deg.. normally servos move approx +/- 45 deg from centre position - 90 deg total ??

Steve

Servos.jpeg

img_1559[1].jpg

Edited By Steve Jones 2 on 12/06/2019 16:28:51

B YELLOP12/06/2019 17:42:09
7 forum posts

Steve, I measured the travel with one of those servo testers!!!!!. I assume then that this is not reflective of the travel experienced when using a TX??( Older person returned to hobby after many years, trying to catch up on everything, but learning fast, also not afraid to look an idiot, wether I am or not !!!!!!!!) That's me. I am waiting for comment by Richard before taking the plunge and cutting away the front of the mast support/fuc'ge .

Barry

Richard Harris12/06/2019 20:51:28
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2034 forum posts
1868 photos

Barry,

I mirror what Steve has suggested, as long as you leave clearance between your arm and the fuselage side you will be fine. Start off with full movement in roll then cut to clear.

A wise man once told me the only daft question is the one that's never asked!

20190612_181942.jpg

Rich

B YELLOP14/06/2019 09:28:24
7 forum posts

Rich,is there a specific reason why the rotor blades are designed to revolve in the direction they are, other than the orientation of the aerofoil profile.? For instance if the profile were reversed would the blades go in the other direction.?

Or should I not get involved with the science!!!!!

Barry

Cuban814/06/2019 21:02:21
2502 forum posts
10 photos

With a gale blowing outside and rain that's curtailed house painting, gardening and most importantly my usual visits to the flying field my Revolver II has taken a big step forward. Finally on to the blades. Have managed to get my blade blanks cut out and to within a gramme of each other, so not too bad. All clear on what's to be done except I don't understand the detail about the rectangular shaded area within the reinforcement and 10mm dimension shown at the blade root underside on the plan - see pic. Help!

Edit....just had a thought .....incidence packing?

blade root.jpg

Edited By Cuban8 on 14/06/2019 21:05:04

Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk14/06/2019 21:15:21
177 forum posts
33 photos
Posted by Cuban8 on 14/06/2019 21:02:21:

Edit....just had a thought .....incidence packing?

Edited By Cuban8 on 14/06/2019 21:05:04

Yes, incidence packing on the blade underside to give a little bit of -negative incidence (if required)

Richard Harris21/06/2019 09:28:59
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2034 forum posts
1868 photos
Posted by B YELLOP on 14/06/2019 09:28:24:

Rich,is there a specific reason why the rotor blades are designed to revolve in the direction they are, other than the orientation of the aerofoil profile.? For instance if the profile were reversed would the blades go in the other direction.?

Or should I not get involved with the science!!!!!

Barry

Barry,

So for the delay in replying, up to my neck stripping out my kitchen.

In the early days I did test combinations of opposite spinning blades in both 2 and 3 configurations with anti clockwise spinning props. Though there is not a lot of difference they do tend to turn to the retreating blade direction with a little less effort on the thumbs.

Clearly if anyone does try a clockwise spinning set the roll trim would be biased to the right.

On another note we have our first autogyro get together this weekend over in Peterborough, I don't think the details have been posted on this site but all are welcome. If anyone does fancy popping over let me know and I will get the organiser to post details? Weather is looking favourable.

Rich

Richard Harris23/06/2019 10:56:21
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2034 forum posts
1868 photos

Yesterday saw the first of our autogyro fly-ins, a couple of new (to me) Revolvers turned up. A few photos I managed to grab in between flying. Big thanks to Ian and his clubmates in Peterborough for the invite yes

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Big T23/06/2019 12:10:21
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214 forum posts
202 photos

Great pictures Rich, it was a great day to test out the Revolver 2 in different wind conditions as the thermals went through. I need to make a couple of mods to the Suzuki Revolver. Air scoops and vent holes to cool the ESC and a better Lipo security metnod. Apart from that she flew like a dream.

Thanks go to Ian and club mates for the day. Well worth the 1.5 hour drive.

Aviatormax03/07/2019 12:12:00
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1 forum posts

Hi Richard, I’m starting the Revolver II building, and I have two question:

It is worth to have the front wheel steerable?

The empennage is made in depron, but I don’t have this material, is it the same if I use balsa?

Many thanks, Massimo

Richard Harris03/07/2019 19:15:57
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2034 forum posts
1868 photos

Hi Massimo,

Welcome to the forum.

No reason why the Revolver wouldn't benefit from a steerable nose wheel, I kept it fixed to simplify things and have had no issues.

Balsa should be fine for the tail feathers, just keep an eye on the CG.

Rich

Chris Dowell04/07/2019 01:28:18
95 forum posts
47 photos

I can understand why Rich did not fit a steerable nose wheel...and that's because the rudder has enough authority for any ground tracking and quite often steerable nose wheels have been known to take a bit of a bashing.

Chris...

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