By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by CML

Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Richard Harris19/07/2019 19:49:43
avatar
2046 forum posts
1886 photos

Friday evening is in full swing at our annual fly in, the wind has eased and a couple of Revolvers have had their maidens. I couldn't resist a photo of them lined up.

20190719_194028.jpg

B YELLOP20/07/2019 16:17:27
11 forum posts

I have just been trying to get the motor off-set by susspending the model from the pylon and running the motor,. The motor turns anti-clockwise ( When viewed from the rear), leading edge to the front. BUT the motor is now on the left . I am using a master airscrew,( MA.3B09x70R01) 3 blade 9x7 R/P. Have I got a blade with the wrong characteristics??? Does the 'R/P' mean the wrong rotation or some thing else. Please excuse my ignorance as I am an old returnee and things have moved on a pace. Can anyone throw some light on this please . Other than that I THINK I may be almost there!!!!!

Barry

Edit  I think I have just twigged why, as the  motor turns anti-clock and not clockwise. R/P means reverse thrust. Steep learnibg curve, another lesson learned. Hope it will still perform OK.

Edited By B YELLOP on 20/07/2019 16:40:24

Steve Jones 223/07/2019 12:14:55
avatar
501 forum posts
369 photos

That Prop is a PUSHER prop.. hence is has to spin anti clockwise... No problem but as a result your motor needs to move to the LEFT of the mast centreline when viewed from the rear - opposite to the plan.

Many of our models use standard props which then turn clockwise from rear and so the motors are offset to the RIGHT of the mast...

If you do this with the pushed you might notice then the rudder trim is to the right not left..

Good luck !!

Steve

Richard Harris23/07/2019 22:33:20
avatar
2046 forum posts
1886 photos

 

I have been up to Sarik hobbies and given them the canopy plug for this model, they are going to make a resin mould from it so anyone who doesn't fancy tackling you will soon be able to purchase one. They are also manufacturing a laser cut part kit which should be on their web site soon.

Last weekend I managed to take a few photos of some of the Revolvers that turned up at our annual meet between flying. Here are a few:

Out of interest, the yellow and green version at the bottom has 3D printed blades, wheel spats and tail holder, Ian who has designed these will make the files available for all once he's perfected them

img_8656.jpg

img_8625.jpg

img_8614.jpg

img_8488.jpg

img_8485.jpg

img_8473.jpg

img_8457.jpg

img_8402.jpg

img_8345.jpg

tims revolver 2.jpg

ians revolver.jpg

Edited By Richard Harris on 23/07/2019 22:39:37

Cuban831/07/2019 12:29:20
2581 forum posts
12 photos

Getting close now after a period away from building because of family stuff, you know how it is (new baby grandaughteryes).

So.......blades made and balanced both in pairs and as a complete assembly using Chris Dowell's video. Just one thing bothering me a tad - the fixing of the rotors to the Razor head relies just on that tiny M4 captive half nut in the printed unit. When I assembled everything, the 30mm M4 main head screw doesn't fully clear said retaining half nut - half a thread short of the couple of threads available at best. The Coolwind instructions mention the main screw is not to protrude excessively, which is fair enough, but I don't have much to play with in the first place. I like to see at least the bolt's diameter protruding through a nut when tightened. Any thoughts?

Richard Harris31/07/2019 15:06:09
avatar
2046 forum posts
1886 photos

I agree Cuban, there should be at lease a thread or two protruding through below the nut. I am sure Malcolm will chip in when he sees this to advise but I would just get a longer M4 Cap Head and pack between the top of the head and the nyloc nut directly below Tri plate holder? You don't want  too much sticking protruding below as this can reduce the pitching movement.

 

Edited By Richard Harris on 31/07/2019 15:07:37

Cuban831/07/2019 17:07:28
2581 forum posts
12 photos

Thanks Richard, I was thinking along the lines that you mention, not the end of the world. There is quite a bit of clearance under the rocker so there's scope to get a few more threads through perhaps with a thin lock nut for extra security.

Steve Jones 231/07/2019 19:03:52
avatar
501 forum posts
369 photos

I have one of Malcolm’s heads on my Ducati Revolver.. lovely piece of design and printing. The whole kit Malcolm provides is a significant step up to the HK parts we used to source.

I spoke to him about the length of the head bolt and with the double thick plates then the next size of bolt 35mm was too long. The 30mm supplier with the thin nuts just gives enough to be flush. I like a thicker plain nut above the head so if this is used a 32mm bolt is required which I cut down from a 35mm.

Next time a batch is printed he suggested he might tweek the design again. That’s the great thing about Malcolm he is keen to listen and without his efforts with this head we would be a little stuck

Steve

Cuban802/08/2019 07:59:23
2581 forum posts
12 photos

It's really not a big problem, but it seemed worthwhile to flag up. I've ordered some 35mm bolts that I can modify to suit.

On the balancing of the blades using the prop balancer in Chris's video - the (I think) Dubro item is around the fifty quid mark now so quite expensive. Although there has been criticism of the copy item available from Ebay for about twelve pounds or so, I thought I'd see what one was like.

It's nicely moulded and robust but the action as received is a bit 'gritty'..........so, providing that you strip it apart (easy) and remove the slight burrs from the edge of the balance wheels with very fine emery and polish them with a suitable metal polish to a mirror finish, you'll have a useful bit of kit for not a lot of cash.

Edited By Cuban8 on 02/08/2019 08:01:04

Chris Dowell03/08/2019 01:48:52
100 forum posts
47 photos

Yes the DU-BRO balancer was a pricy bit of kit but it is very accurate and at the same time can be very frustrating ….cos its accurate...and you can find yourself chasing your tail .I was not aware of a copy ..but at the same time ,it's not surprising....doesn't every thing get copied these days. I'm sure it will come into use on future autogiro projects. Good luck with the balancing.

Chris...

Cuban803/08/2019 09:24:09
2581 forum posts
12 photos

Thanks Chris, your video was very handy and I quite enjoyed getting my rotor assembly balanced. A bit of a faff but I think I'm pretty close to where you managed to get yours. For the balancer just Ebay search 'Tru Spin Prop Balancer' there's plenty available - worth a punt for little over a tenner. But they do need a bit of work to get them to run really smoothly as I mentioned.

Edited By Cuban8 on 03/08/2019 09:24:45

Chris Dowell04/08/2019 07:26:12
100 forum posts
47 photos

Looks like a dead ringer for the Du-Bro.

.Comes in just under $20.00 Kangaroo Dollars.wink

Happy landings.

Chris...

Cuban816/08/2019 15:39:44
2581 forum posts
12 photos

Everything going quite well, model fully assembled and all gear/battery in place. Carried out the hang check and it worked out right down the middle of the suggested range at a tad over 16 degrees. Followed the article's instructions and moved on to the vertical CG (suspended from the nose wheel leg) and marked on the airframe as instructed.

Previously, the motor was temporarily fixed to give 10mm prop clearance to the tail boom (9x6 two blader) and the thrust line is a good 25mm above the rearward projected CG position. - blue dot in yellow square. Seems excessive given Richard's remarks about importance of thrust line and CG setting in the mag article.

Not sure how to proceed.sad20190816_151530.jpg

Cuban816/08/2019 16:25:57
2581 forum posts
12 photos

Just had a cuppa to go over this and I think I made a mistake first time round with transposing the GC string position. I'm using a separate plumb line secured from the same point as the string that's suspending the model and for the second setting I didn't align it correctly with the string supporting the model from the nose leg. This time my CG is about 15mm below the thrust line, so much better. How close do I need to get it? Should I trim the prop to allow me to lower the motor?

Learning something new every day with Autogyros................

Steve Jones 216/08/2019 22:37:36
avatar
501 forum posts
369 photos

Both mine fitted with 10x6 prop which has tips 3 mm above top of boom. No idea where thrust line to cog is .. both fly great so don’t worry about it

steve

Chris Dowell16/08/2019 23:43:56
100 forum posts
47 photos

DITTO as Steve tells

Chris...

Cuban817/08/2019 06:27:44
2581 forum posts
12 photos

Very encouraging, many thanks.yes

Mike Sargent 117/08/2019 17:12:21
1 forum posts

I'm interested in the design requirement for the Revolver Blades or any other design. How do you calculate blade chord and length when you design an original Autogyro?

Mike

Richard Harris17/08/2019 17:43:55
avatar
2046 forum posts
1886 photos

As the lads have said Cuban it will be fine. In fact, 15mm is pretty good.

Just finishing off my second revolver II, this has a cranked tail boom so I can get the thrust line bang on, I can do away with the horizontal tail surfaces this way and hopefully make it a little more lively.

Will post some photos when it's completed.

Rich

Chris Dowell17/08/2019 23:35:53
100 forum posts
47 photos

Rich ... I have noticed over the years that you like to remove the horizontal stab when ever possible.

BUT doing that gives you less of the model to see and I for one need to be able to see as much of these flying machines as possible.wink

Chris...

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Support Our Partners
Addlestone Models
CML
Pepe Aircraft
Wings & Wheels 2019
Gliders Distribution
Cambridge Gliding Club
electricwingman 2017
Slec
Advertise With Us
Sarik
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Does your club have a safety officer?
Q: Does your club have a safety officer, or is the emphasis on individual members to each be their own safety officer?

 Yes we have a SO
 No, it's down to everyone

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us